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Old 01-11-2016, 01:12 PM   #15
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Well I guess that answers it......not the answer I was hoping for but was where I was rapidly getting too. Thanks for the help........much appreciated!
My question would be why does the storage facility have such a non-standard plug available in the unit? I would just ask if they or you could change the wall plug to a standard 3 prong 120VAC outlet and then get a 20 AMP heavy duty extension cord and the 50-15AMp dog bone or like I and others have and have a 50-30-15 dog bone to plug the extension cord in. I have the two dog bones because if I go to some state camp grounds they only have 30 amp hookup a lot of the time so I can always use my 50-30 dog bone and still run my coach with my EMS system. I also carry my extension cord just in case I run into a situation I only have a standard 20/15 amp plug available. electrically I think I am covered for connections this way. I keep my coach plugged in at my house all the time with the 50-30-20AMP dog bone and a heavy duty extension cord. I can run almost everything with the exception of the A/C units.
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Old 01-11-2016, 01:29 PM   #16
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My question would be why does the storage facility have such a non-standard plug available in the unit?
I would guess in a past life the storage facility was something associated with light industrial or even a warehouse and the outlets were for recharging electrical forklifts. Pretty easy to demo a place to plain vanilla then rent out floor space for vehicle storage.

NEMA 6 outlets are more common in light industrial environments and can be wired hot-hot-ground unlike the more consumer NEMA 5 which is hot-neutral-ground which is why the OP needs to first test before plugging in.
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:43 PM   #17
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I have 6 batts in mine, 4 house and 2 chassis do I get a batt tender for each one?
Here is what I did for my 6 ( 4 + 2 ) batteries: Battery Tender 022-0165-DL-WH 12-Volt 2-Bank Battery Management System

Works as expected.

Wiring into the 4 6-volt batteries can be a head scratcher, but once you figure it out, the Battery Tender will keep all 4 batteries charged.
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Old 01-11-2016, 03:04 PM   #18
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I have to go from 50 to 30 then 30 to 20. Not sure if they have a 50 to 20.
That works for me.
Has since '01, when my coach was new to me.. (and those 2 adapters are much less expensive than a battery tender... which I don't need because my coach has a 3 stage charger built into the inverter/charger).
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:06 PM   #19
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NEMA 6 outlets are more common in light industrial environments and can be wired hot-hot-ground unlike the more consumer NEMA 5 which is hot-neutral-ground which is why the OP needs to first test before plugging in.
Finally found what I think I need:
https://www.evseadapters.com/14-50r-...r?search=6-20P

However, your comment about testing the outlet, which I have to admit I had not even thought of, has me thinking I need to test it to see how it is wired. Is there an easy way of testing / determining how it is wired? I'm thinking I should maybe get an electrician to test it out.....

Thanks
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:18 PM   #20
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Use a multi meter set for AC volts.

Should only have 120 volts between the blades.

Also 120 volts between 1 blade and ground pin hole. Looks like right slot with ground hole down.

If you see 220 volts anywhere, do not use.
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:20 PM   #21
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The only place that I have seen one of those outlets was on an outlet for a 240 volt compressor. Is the one in your storage place 240 or 120 ? Also I could not view your picture so I did not see the type of plug you were looking for. If it is 120 volt why not have them install a normal 120 volt outlet then you could use a 20 to 50 dog bone.
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:25 PM   #22
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The only place that I have seen one of those outlets was on an outlet for a 240 volt compressor. Is the one in your storage place 240 or 120 ? Also I could not view your picture so I did not see the type of plug you were looking for. If it is 120 volt why not have them install a normal 120 volt outlet then you could use a 20 to 50 dog bone.
I actually don't know if it 120 or 240V and hadn't thought about it until asking the question here - good job I did!
The manager at the storage facility told me it is dedicated 20amp line for RV hookup, but then there is always the possibility he is wrong
I am going to go with testing it and see what I find out.........now I know that if it shows 220 I am not going to use it.........will also hold off on buying any adapters until after I have tested it

Thanks again
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:58 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by usdave1t View Post
Finally found what I think I need:
https://www.evseadapters.com/14-50r-...r?search=6-20P

However, your comment about testing the outlet, which I have to admit I had not even thought of, has me thinking I need to test it to see how it is wired. Is there an easy way of testing / determining how it is wired? I'm thinking I should maybe get an electrician to test it out.....

Thanks
Dave

YES you need to test that outlet

Do you have a voltmeter...and know how to use?


That adapter (NEMA 14-59R to 620P) is for recharging a TESLA car battery..............that uses 220V
That outlet at storage could very well be wired 220V
2 hot legs and 1 ground.


Need to test that is has only 1 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground



AND should only be 120V between the two 'slots'
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:20 PM   #24
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Most RV stores, Camping world and such have 50-15 adapters which will work for you.
Here are two. I really like the 2nd for your job and a 12GA cord from Sears or K-mart (with the push button on the outlet) to run to the outlet.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55168-Po...15+amp+adapter

http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14222-...15+amp+adapter
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:28 PM   #25
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Use a multi meter set for AC volts.

Should only have 120 volts between the blades.

Also 120 volts between 1 blade and ground pin hole. Looks like right slot with ground hole down.

If you see 220 volts anywhere, do not use.
Spot on. Between the blades 120VAC on a meter. Anything else just disconnect the battery(s) negative terminal, check the battery(s) liquid level and wait for spring. Check the outlet and don't just go by what the care taker of the site states. They are probably sincere and such not but it only takes a minute an $20 dollar meter to verify.
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:32 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Most RV stores, Camping world and such have 50-15 adapters which will work for you.
Here are two. I really like the 2nd for your job and a 12GA cord from Sears or K-mart (with the push button on the outlet) to run to the outlet.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55168-Po...15+amp+adapter

http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14222-...15+amp+adapter
Not sure you looked at what they are dealing with but the slots for the blades on the plug on the duplex has one horizontal and one vertical slot. I also think the two you posted links to look like twist lock adapters.
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Old 01-11-2016, 06:55 PM   #27
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http://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1452559652
These are photos of a duplex that I had in my electric supply bin. It is a 125 volt 20 amp duplex and could be exchanged for the one at your storage facility.
The horizontal slot is the neutral slot and the vertical one is the hot side. One the horizontal you can see the silver screws. You should have the one in there test as shown in the diagram that "Old-Biscut" posted. If you replaced the one there with one of these it would carry 20amps and could still be used for the original intent because it has both the vertical and horizontal slot on the neutral side.
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Old 01-11-2016, 07:19 PM   #28
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Looks like what you need. Cost is a bit much but if the storage facility is something you plan to use for multiple seasons might be worth the cost. Plus if you plan to ever move on just post a note with the care taker that you have an adaptor for sale.

Of note from the site selling the adaptor "This type of outlet is found in many hotel rooms for the air conditioner, and rated 20 amps at 208 volts." There's that pesky high voltage concern again.
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