Hot water heater

[Koele]

Does anyone know if the Atwood, model GC 10 A -3 E, hot water heater, have an aluminum rod (sacrificial rod). The square headed brass drain plug, does not look like having the aluminum rod attached.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Atwood heaters do not require anode rods. If one is there it should be removed.

Also, Atwood heaters use a nylon drain plug. You should remove the brass plug and replace it with an Atwood nylon plug.

[Mr_D]

right Mark.

[windsorbill]

Originally Posted by Koele

Does anyone know if the Atwood, model GC 10 A -3 E, hot water heater, have an aluminum rod (sacrificial rod). The square headed brass drain plug, does not look like having the aluminum rod attached.

As Mark mentioned, remove the brass plug and put a nylon one in. There was a thread recently that had a galvanized plug. It was fused in place by electrolysis. I'm not sure of the final outcome, he may have had to replace entire water heater.

[wa8yxm]

I put a CPVC adapter in the Atwood, then a quarter turn valve on that (Brass) makes it real easy to drain.
Do not use a metal plug on atwoods though. I DO understand they made one model that was an exception and did use a rod.

You do not have it.

[Old-Biscuit]

ALL Atwood water heaters are ALUMINUM Tanks that have an interior aluminum/zinc cladding..........they do NOT use an anode rod

Suburban water heaters are STEEL Tanks with glass lining and REQUIRE anode rods for protection....aluminum or magnesium

Atwood GC10A-3E does NOT use a Brass Drain Plug.......it uses a 1/2" NPT NYLON plug...protects the aluminum threads and is temp/pressure rated for water heater


Atwood G10-3E model (and the G10-2E one also) came OEM with a brass pet cock.
Only 2 models that did.....they are gas only early vintage models


Buy a 2 pak of the Atwood NYLON drain plugs....roughly $7

And forget about those 'aftermarket' Atwood Anode Rods being sold.
Just a means of separating you from your monies

[nehog]

My Ambassador has the standard plug... (10 gallon Atwood)

The Winnebago has a brass valve to drain. (6 gallon Atwood)

All in all, the brass valve is very slightly easier to drain as you don't need to find a wrench!

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by nehog

My Ambassador has the standard plug... (10 gallon Atwood)

The Winnebago has a brass valve to drain. (6 gallon Atwood)

All in all, the brass valve is very slightly easier to drain as you don't need to find a wrench!

Brass valve is OK to 'drain' water but due to its ID size it is restrictive when it comes to getting the crud flushed out.

Atwoods in general are more restrictive due to the 1/2" drain hole

W/O good flushing the crud/scale builds up causing less heat transfer/more energy usage

[marjoa]

Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit

W/O good flushing the crud/scale builds up causing less heat transfer/more energy usage

Yep. And here's a good video showing how to flush out the crud/scale.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSHBc66W4yE

[Old-Biscuit]

Originally Posted by marjoa

Yep. And here's a good video showing how to flush out the crud/scale.

Problem is with the 1/2" drain hole on Atwoods a 'wand' stuck thru the drain hole takes up most of the opening.
Suburban are a little better due to their 3/4" size drain hole but still with a 'wand' stuck in opening most of the crud doesn't get forced out.

Just removing drain plug from a full tank does some flushing out


I prefer a 'power flush' with NOTHING in the drain hole
Remove drain plug or anode rod and then turn the water supply on FULL
Stand back ----cause 'stuff' is going to get BLOWN out
(Cold water inlet 'dip tubes' point DOWN so the water pressure stirs up the bottom and open drain hole is the only way out...'Power Flush'!)

[Koele]

Wow. I'd like to thank everyone for their responses. Never too old to learn, and I learned a lot. As soon as I get back home I will replace the brass plug. Hate to do it now, just in case there may be surprises.
Thanks, Koele