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Old 08-01-2014, 09:09 AM   #15
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Thank you all, again! It will be a few days before I get the new hot water heater, an air compressor ordered (along with some other small items I'm pricing out on the web as well). I'll update this thread with either more questions or final pictures - whichever comes first. =)
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:54 PM   #16
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After a over an hour of learning about ALL the different types of Atwood Hot Water Heaters and how to read their Model Numbers I decided to go with the GC6AA0-10E aka 96160. This has an Electrical Spark Ignition and will run on LP or Electrical. I found one on Ebay that was never installed for $375 + $20 shipping and comes with the door (not really needed) and an extra switch. The cheapest I could find through other sites were $410-$420 + $21-22 shipping. Should arrive by August 7. Phew! =)
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Old 08-11-2014, 10:16 AM   #17
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Hot water heater is here! As directed, I'm waiting on the blow out valve to arrive so I can test the lines before installing. I bought the kind of blow out valve that has a tire stem on one side (schrader valve), garden hose on the other (the first compressor only had a tire valve connection - thus the reason for my choice).

Please let me know if I'm missing any steps for the water line test below. I've never done this, so I want to make sure I've thought this through correctly based on all of your feedback. Thank you, as always, for your time!!

How to test the water lines for leaks:
1. Have all faucets closed (kitchen, shower, bath sink are the only faucets)
2. Make sure by-pass on water heater is closed to the water heater connections, but open to the water system
3. Hook up the schrader valve to the city water connection which will BY PASS the fresh water tank (which has access to open air all the time through the green/white air hose)
4. Use the compressor and compressor gauge on the city water line to get it to 45 PSI. Let it sit for a few minutes - at least - if not a few hours. Then test levels to see if it has gone down. I could also use TIRE gauge on the valve to test levels - correct?
5. If it does go down, then refill back to 45 PSI and go inside and listen for whistles under/behind each of those areas to see if I can hear a "leak". If not, further investigation will be needed.
6. If it doesn't go down - dance a jig and get that water heater installed!

Thanks!
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:02 AM   #18
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The best way to determine if the system is leaking is to have a gauge in the pressurized line. Using a tire gauge will allow a small amount of air out of the system, giving a false reading. Since the whole system doesn't have the volume of one tire, any release of air will reduce pressure.

Also, once pressurized, any places of suspected leaks can be swiped with a rag soaked in soapy water. If it bubbles, it's leaking.
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:52 PM   #19
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Hi! Thank you!

Understood. So will the Adjustable Water PSI I bought also read the AIR PSI if hook it up like:

City Water Connection <- Adjustable Water PSI Valve <- Schrader Blow Out Valve <- Air Compressor

?

or will I need to get a reader for AIR that goes on the line?

Thanks! =)
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneSiren View Post
Hi! Thank you!

Understood. So will the Adjustable Water PSI I bought also read the AIR PSI if hook it up like:

City Water Connection <- Adjustable Water PSI Valve <- Schrader Blow Out Valve <- Air Compressor

?

or will I need to get a reader for AIR that goes on the line?

Thanks! =)
It should. The only restrictions I know of for low cost gauges is corrosives. Water and air are pretty benign.
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:02 AM   #21
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Hot Water Heater/Tank Replacement Plan

Thank you! All parts are here, just need to get all hooked up. =)

Edit: Uhhh, no they're not. Lol. Psi from cw (and 2 new outdoor mats = free shipping) still on its way.

....getting impatient as I get closer to the finish line.... =)
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:18 PM   #22
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You can buy a replacement water tank only here, and just remove the old tank and keep the electronics from the old tank. Atwood Water Heater Tanks Atwood Replacement Inner Tank Atwood Inner Tank Atwood Inner Tanks
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:00 AM   #23
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Hiya!!

New water heater in the hole and all sealed up last fall - but not connected.

For anyone new to the thread:
I had an Atwood 6 gallon automatic ignition, propane run water heater.
I now have an Atwood 6 gallon automatic ignition, propane and 120V run water heater.

Questions:
A. Will I need a real electrician or mobile RV fix it guy to connect the new 120V line, or would a team of handymen know how to connect a new line for the 120v from the electrical box?

B. I assume splicing an existing power line is a big no-no and it should have a dedicated line from the box?

I have a very trusted team of handymen who are coming to prepare the sticks and bricks house for sale. I know they will say YES to me for anything I ask, but I wanted to ask the known risks/things to be aware of before I ask them, or find out I should have had a professional.

I fully respect the electrical, fire and propane combination here. =)

Thanks so much for your help and time!

Lorelei


My husband can figure out how to hook up the ignition and propane. The 120V is the challenge for us.
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Old 05-01-2015, 09:27 AM   #24
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How big (watts) is the heating element? If it's not too big, a run from another circuit would probably be fine.

If you have a space in the breaker panel, a new circuit just for the water heater would also be O.K. Find a location to install a lighted 120 v switch to turn the water heater 120 v element on. You should also install a second switch in the water heater compartment if you can. The second switch is used to turn off the element's power when winterizing to prevent accidental turning on of the inside switch when the tank is empty.
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Old 05-01-2015, 03:22 PM   #25
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Hiya!

I have model number: GCH6A-10E

"The screw-in heating element is rated at 1400 watts just like the bolt-on element."

Says page 14 of http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Atwoo...er-Service.pdf

On your switch comment: I had a single brown switch, and the new one came with a longer white switch with two separate switches for the gas and electric separately that we are using as replacement and no longer use the brown one. Are you saying add an additional switch in the cabinet with the water heater?

Hubby's solution is that we'll take a power cable, connect it to the wires on the hot water heater, and run that power line through a wall to an outlet on the other sidethe wall. Just to be clear - imagine cutting off a wire from a power strip and then using that to connect to the wires on the water heater, and then plugging it into the outlet.

Any reason this is a bad idea? =)

Thanks again for all of your minutes!! We're sooooo close, Bob! =)
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Old 05-01-2015, 03:55 PM   #26
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At 11.66 amps, (Watts = Amps x Volts), if you have a spare spot in the breaker panel it would be best to put in a new dedicated circuit. To add that much load to any other circuit would easily be overloaded with a hair dryer, coffee pot, etc. With an indoor and in the WH compartment switch, you eliminate the accidental turning on the power in that circuit when the WH is drained.

If you just want the electric part of the WH on when you plug in the cord, your solution will work. Just be aware that at 11.66 amps, you are using more than 2/3 of a 15 amp circuit, so any other big power drawing object plugged in at the same time very likely will overload the circuit breaker. Also, drawing that much power through a GFI protected outlet might cause premature failure of the GFI outlet.

I was just suggesting how it's often done on original installation of a gas/electric WH. I'd imagine the 'old' brown switch is a 12 v power switch to turn on the gas portion of the WH.
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Old 05-01-2015, 04:09 PM   #27
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Just did mine and you need also a on off switch. On mine the wall next
To she shower has a junction boxes and tied everything there and ran a second wire to control panel. I put a 110 outlet box under the bed since it is next to the water heater and conduit the wires to protect them.


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