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Old 07-13-2012, 10:06 AM   #15
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Some inverter/charges shut off if batteries get below 10V and won't charge again until you use a portable charger and get the batteries up to 13V
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:52 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by 336muffin View Post
I have had zero corrosion with AGM's in two coach's.
Amazing, the metals used in the connectors will corrode (Tarnish is corrosion) if left on the shelf in the store long enough.. So saying you have ZERO means you must have some dang good anti-tranish treatment.

Now there is one metal who's tarnish does conduct electricity.. but nobody makes those connectors out of Gold.
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:01 PM   #17
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House batteries

Thanks Rick O I will check the inverter setting and change it to 10 or 15 as you suggest. I got my amp meter out and checked what was coming from the inverter to the batteries and that is working fine. checked voltage on the batteries and they were all over the place. In the process now of putting new batteries in
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Old 07-13-2012, 12:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triker56
Some inverter/charges shut off if batteries get below 10V and won't charge again until you use a portable charger and get the batteries up to 13V
Perfect, a charger that won't charge batteries until they are fully charged. Ya got to love design engineers
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:05 PM   #19
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House batteries

New batteries are in, have 13 volts. Rick O, checked the inverter and it was set at 25 Amps, cut it down to 10 amps. Thanks for the information. will keep an eye on the corrosion. See if it improves. Thanks everyone else for their input. Did get Trojan batteries. Had NAPA batteries before.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:22 PM   #20
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I've learned some stuff here, thanks. My question is about the inverter charge setting. I can't find anything in my EMS control panel, so I have no 'visible' clue whether my setting is at 25A or lower. My batteries need water every month it seems, which is okay, and my corrosion is minimal. I installed a Trikle-start years ago. So, my batts are working fine. But I'm wondering if I can reduce maintenance by reducing the amperage from 25 to 10 as RickO suggests? But I don't know where to do it.... Anybody know the scoop? Thanks again, this thread has been informative.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:28 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by steelheadbluesman View Post
My question is about the inverter charge setting. I can't find anything in my EMS control panel, so I have no 'visible' clue whether my setting is at 25A or lower. My batteries need water every month it seems, which is okay, and my corrosion is minimal. I installed a Trikle-start years ago. So, my batts are working fine. But I'm wondering if I can reduce maintenance by reducing the amperage from 25 to 10 as RickO suggests? But I don't know where to do it.... Anybody know the scoop? Thanks again, this thread has been informative.
Hmmm.... do you know if you have a Dimensions Inverter/Charger? Is there no Inverter control panel in the coach? Most I've seen on Winnies are mounted below the EMS panel. The display lights up when you press the "display" button and it will show the status of the inverter, etc.

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Old 07-13-2012, 01:39 PM   #22
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Hmmm.... do you know if you have a Dimensions Inverter/Charger? Is there no Inverter control panel in the coach? Most I've seen on Winnies are mounted below the EMS panel. The display lights up when you press the "display" button and it will show the status of the inverter, etc.

Rick
Sorry, meant to say it is a Dimensions, and there is a switch to activate it on my EMS control board. But I don't recall any amp rating or button to change it. I'll have to check it out further, but I'm away from the rig right now. But I will check it out further, Rick, thanks.
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Old 07-13-2012, 01:51 PM   #23
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Steel Head, Ours has a switch on the right side of the inverter control labeled "Charger Draw/Set input" Just had to keep pressing til your desired Amperage comes up. I see your coach is a year older than ours.. Hopefully they used they same controller then
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:52 PM   #24
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Steel Head, Ours has a switch on the right side of the inverter control labeled "Charger Draw/Set input" Just had to keep pressing til your desired Amperage comes up. I see your coach is a year older than ours.. Hopefully they used they same controller then
Thanks for the info, I'll check it out when I get back to my rig. I appreciate everybody being so helpful....
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Old 07-14-2012, 06:58 AM   #25
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For what its worth department. We have a 2007 Winnebago Journey 36G. I was constantly having to clean the corrosion on the posts, hold down bolts, straps and tray. We too have the NAPA group 31 batteries and had them tested and they were marginal so decided to replace them with the same NAPA group 31 batteries. The new batteries have a different vent opening sort of like on a motorcycle battery. We were able to attach a clear vent tube over the opening (about 3/8 inch) and vent it out the bottom of the coach. It has stopped all corrosion for over a year now and am very happy. I plan to replace the engine start batteries the same way.
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Old 07-14-2012, 09:16 AM   #26
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Now that I have the batteries replaced and the charger turned down to 10 Amps, I am wondering if there is something that can be done to switch the thermostat over to 110 volts. I was not aware that it was 12 volt til it started clicking yesterday when the batteries went down. Obviously had no AC while the batteries were down. Any body have any input on this? Pros and cons?
Thanks
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:04 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by moldmkr
Now that I have the batteries replaced and the charger turned down to 10 Amps, I am wondering if there is something that can be done to switch the thermostat over to 110 volts. I was not aware that it was 12 volt til it started clicking yesterday when the batteries went down. Obviously had no AC while the batteries were down. Any body have any input on this? Pros and cons?
Thanks
Not sure your reasoning why you would even consider this. Historically, all RV control systems are 12v and as far as I know they all still are.

RVs are used in many different ways. When you are in the middle of nowhere, you don't want or can't use 115v so your propane frig will work, propane water heater and other control systems, safety appliances. If your batteries go bad, as you said, you lose your inverted 115v anyway. With a generator and your engine alternator, the batteries should be the last to go.

I guess I'm old school, on the other hand I am a techie and love gagets. However, I avoid inverters like the plague and don't have one and don't need one. I have my rig set up to run everything on !2v and I can go 3 days without starting the genny. With the exception of short use of the microwave.

To me, having a NEED for 115v is a scary proposition. Of couse I'm sure I'm in a small group. Additionally, the forum is riddled with inverter problems, wether malfunctions or user inexperiance.

To be fair, many folks can't live without, love them and never had a problem.
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:32 PM   #28
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Not sure your reasoning why you would even consider this. Historically, all RV control systems are 12v and as far as I know they all still are.

RVs are used in many different ways. When you are in the middle of nowhere, you don't want or can't use 115v so your propane frig will work, propane water heater and other control systems, safety appliances. If your batteries go bad, as you said, you lose your inverted 115v anyway. With a generator and your engine alternator, the batteries should be the last to go.

I guess I'm old school, on the other hand I am a techie and love gagets. However, I avoid inverters like the plague and don't have one and don't need one. I have my rig set up to run everything on !2v and I can go 3 days without starting the genny. With the exception of short use of the microwave.

To me, having a NEED for 115v is a scary proposition. Of couse I'm sure I'm in a small group. Additionally, the forum is riddled with inverter problems, wether malfunctions or user inexperiance.

To be fair, many folks can't live without, love them and never had a problem.
X2. I'm in that same group.... I don't love inverters, and I want EVERYTHING that is meant to run on 12v to do so. IMO, that's what RVing is all about. Going down the road, with the confidence that all your essentials will function on battery power is a wonderful thing.
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