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Old 11-04-2017, 10:22 PM   #1
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House Batteries not charging while driving

When I first got MH batteries would charge while driving. A few years ago they stopped. I replaced solenoid , still doesn't , the momentary switch to connect chassis batteries works. Been searching for fuses and other possible issues nothing found. I called Fleetwood no help, MH has a Spartan chassis, would love to correct problem, Any help would be appreciated.

In the mean time I've been using jumper cables connecting to chassis. Thought about putting a on/off switch in the momentary switch line instead of using jumper cables. Not sure if this would create a problem or over heat the solenoid.
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Old 11-04-2017, 11:00 PM   #2
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Couple of ways to tackle this issue. You can buy a small after market device that senses the voltages and then when needed, sends 12v to the selonoid that joins the batteries together. Donít worry about the seloniod as it has a 100% duty cycle. Or you can fold a business card and jam the battery booster monetary switch so that it stays engaged. I do this periodically so that shore power and the converter keeps the chassis batteries topped off.
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Old 11-05-2017, 02:25 AM   #3
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x2

If putting a toggle in place of momentary or jamming with card makes the coach batteries charge then it is probably your BCC. Not sure if you have one or what type it is. On my coach it is a small black box in the coach battery compartment. As I recall it monitors the ignition voltage, battery voltages, coach charger voltage and determines if/when to send 12 volts to the solenoid. Could be a bad connection from ignition to BCC or bad BCC.

Found this thread that may help, it indicates that it could be worn out coach batteries also:

Charging Chassis Batteries/Coach Batteries

The following is a long letter Fleetwood sent , discussing BCC, Battery Control Center:

Batteries
At Fleetwood owner relations we get frequent calls from customers who do not understand how the battery systems work in their motor home. Some folks do not realize that they need to maintain their batteries.
The first thing we need to talk about is the safety requirements when working around batteries. When working around batteries we need to remove rings, metal watchbands, and other metal jewelry. We also need to use caution when using metal tools. If a tool comes in contact with a battery terminal or any metal connected to it, a short circuit could occur which could cause personal injury, explosion, or fire.
Do not allow battery electrolyte to come in to contact with skin, eyes, fabrics or painted surfaces. This could cause serious personal injury or property damage. Always wear eye protection when working around batteries. Never expose a battery to an open flame, or electric spark. The hydrogen gas emitted from the battery is flammable and explosive.
There are two types of batteries in your motor home; the first is the chassis battery, which is a maintenance free, twelve volt battery. You may have one or two of these. They are designed to give a lot of power for a short period of time. They are used mainly for the chassis functions, like starting the engine, powering the headlights, wipers, etc. They are also used for powering the leveling jacks and running the slide outs, therefore you should always have your engine running when performing these functions to assure you have plenty of alternator and battery power available.
The second type of battery is the house battery, which is normally a six volt deep cycle battery. There are usually two or four of these. They are designed to give steady power for a long period of time. These deep cycle batteries will require maintenance, which includes checking the fluid level in them every seven days when the coach is being used. Even though they are six volt batteries they are wired in “series” that will power the twelve volt systems in your motorhome. So therefore it is very important that if your dealer has to change the batteries, the new batteries need to be wired exactly like those taken out. At times we get calls from customers who are not experienced in electrical repairs, if you are not experienced in electrical repairs please allow an experienced RV technician perform any battery maintenance or repairs.
On coaches built in 1997 or after there are three ways the batteries get charged. The first way is when you are driving, the engine alternator will charge the chassis batteries first and if you do not have a lot of the chassis systems in use at one time, the alternator will also charge the house batteries. One good thing to remember is, if you are going to be driving for several hours, turn on a twelve volt system in the motorhome, this will assure you do not overcharge the house batteries, because you will be using voltage as the alternator is charging the batteries. The second and third way the batteries get charged is when you are running the generator or plugged into shore power. There is no need to do both of these at once because they both use the same charging system. The one thing to remember is the house disconnect must be turned on for the charging system to work. When plugged into shore power or the generator running the house batteries get charged first. When the house batteries get to approximately 13.1 volts, the batteries are tied together through a solenoid and the chassis batteries will then start to charge. If for some reason the voltage on the house batteries starts to drop, and they get down to about 12.5 volts, the solenoid will disconnect the chassis battery, this will assure that the chassis batteries do not get discharged. Another key thing to remember here is if for some reason the house batteries do not get to 13.1 volts, the chassis batteries will not charge. This could be caused by having a defective battery or by not maintaining your house batteries.
Most diesel coaches and some gas coaches have an inverter, which allows the 12 volt batteries to run 120 volt appliances when dry camping. Although this is a convenient feature to have, it is also important to remember that it takes ten times as much dc power to run 120 volt appliance as it would ac power. So for example if you are running a 120 volt appliance on your inverter and it is uses five amps per hour to run on ac power, you will be taking 50 amps per hour out of your dc batteries to create the ac amperage needed. At this rate of discharge the batteries will not last to long before they need to be recharged. Depending on how much your batteries have discharged, you may have to run your generator two hours or more to charge them back up.
Next we want to talk a little bit about storing your motor home and the maintenance required on the batteries. As we already discussed when using the motorhome the fluid in the batteries should be checked every seven days. Before putting the coach into storage, the batteries need to be fully charged. Then the battery fluid level should be checked every thirty days. The batteries should also be fully charged every thirty days. If the fluid level is low always add distilled water after the battery is fully charged. Make sure the fluid level does not go below the plates and fill to 1/8 inch below the bottom of the fill well.
Another thing to remember is the more a battery is discharged the more it is susceptible to freezing because the water and the acid in the batteries start to separate as the batteries discharge. Dirt on top of a battery will also cause it to discharge, as the current from the battery will actually flow thru the dirt. Loose connections on a battery or anywhere in the 12 volt circuit will cause a higher than normal amperage flow, which can damage the appliance or fixture being powered and the wiring.
This quick update is just to get you thinking about how important battery maintenance is to your RV enjoyment. You can get more information on battery maintenance if you go to www.trojan-battery.com , go to tech support and click on battery maintenance.



Good luck with your issue
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Old 11-05-2017, 03:42 AM   #4
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Someone here will have the schematic. No reason to throw the baby out with the bath water. Your Aux start solenoid may be a different solenoid than the charge solenoid. Possible with these snow flakes.

The device that senses there is a charging source may be bad or a simple blown fuse controlling things.

Type "bird" in the little green box above and on the right that says powered by google. It will take you to a lot of great reading to get to know how these systems work.

Triplewide posted some great information but there is much more available.
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Old 11-05-2017, 04:01 AM   #5
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I'm with triplewide and suspect the BCC sense circuit has failed. Normally the AUX Start circuit uses the same solenoids as the charge circuit. All three, chassis disconnect, house disconnect and the bi-directional relay must be closed for charging both the house batteries from the engine alternator and the chassis batteries from the house 120VAC/12VDC converter.

Don't know what Fleetwood uses as a controller and I would be really surprised if they used Intellitec BCC but at least the attached docs will give you a bit of insight and maybe some troubleshooting ideas.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Intellitec BCC.pdf (634.4 KB, 82 views)
File Type: pdf BCC TS Guide.pdf (224.3 KB, 49 views)
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Old 11-05-2017, 04:33 AM   #6
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Very interesting discussion guys! Thanks for taking the time to post the links and copy of letter from Fleetwood and comments.
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Old 11-05-2017, 07:44 AM   #7
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My Mom's little BT Cruiser had the same issue as the OP. I did some online researching and found that hers has a BCC. Going off the top of my head (it's been awhile) but i believe it's purpose is to send 12 volts to the coil of the solenoid that connects both sets of batteries,,, after the main engine is running and chassis battery voltage reaches a certain level.

On my Mom's, it turned out that there was a single wire, with inline fuse, going straight from the battery to the bcc. The fuse was bad. Replaced and she hasn't had a problem since.
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Old 11-05-2017, 08:03 AM   #8
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My Dolphin uses a RV Custom Products BCC, it too didn't charge my house batteries on the trip home when I purchased the coach. My boost switch didn't work either. I found a blown capacitor on the board, tried to replace it but that didn't work. The comparitor circuit don't work on my BCC, and I didn't want to spend $500.00 to replace it because every thing else worked on it. What I did was, I took the wire coming from the boost switch and went directly to the isolation solenoid, so when I push the switch it does work the solenoid. Then I bought and installed a 12 volt delay on timer relay. I set the timer for 20 minutes, so after running the engine for 20 minutes it energizes the isolation solenoid and there for charges the house batteries. My BCC doesn't charge the chassis battery anymore either, because of the bad circuit, so I added a CTEK 3300 battery charger/maintainer to take care of that. I only use it when in winter storage. I've used the same type on my Corvette for the last 6 years without any problems.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CTEK-56-158...53.m1438.l2649
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:05 PM   #9
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Very good info. to consider. I've been looking for a BCC or a Bird unable to locate, as well as fuses, 3 fuse boxes on MH all good, no luck finding blown fuse. But the way they wire you never know where they may hang a fuse. The schematic will help if its similar to my MH. Batteries are good and charge up with jumper cables or gen or inverter. Also have 200 watts solar panels, but can't keep up with demand when furnaces are running. But I agree there has got to be a controller of some type somewhere.
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Old 11-06-2017, 05:52 AM   #10
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Sevenmacs, if you will email Fleetwood customer service and ask for the electrical and plumbing schematics they will email them to you. I did for my 2006 Discovery, and received the documents the same day as I requested them! These documents detail exactly where everything is and how everything is connected. These drawings only apply to what Fleetwood actually installed while building the coach. Be warned, you will get probably 10 to 20 documents and it takes some time to figure them out. Basically they are divided into drawings for the 12 volt systems, 120 volt systems, water, sewer and component placement. I have found them to be extremely valuable to me.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:32 PM   #11
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Hopefully I've solved the problem. Haven't run coach yet to check. Found a post on this forum from last year that indicated a possible fuse. Fuse was in the black fuse box at rear of coach, fuse #22. I had pulled fuse before and visually checked it looked fine, this time I tested it and discovered it was bad. Wire was intact but had detached from edge of spade, which I couldn't see until I shook it. When I replaced it Inverter charger increased sound indicated it was charging my chassis batteries which would have been a little low. I knew if I searched long enough I would find someone who experienced the same issue.
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:15 AM   #12
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Great job. Can you post a picture of the location?

I have changed many fuses that looked perfectly ok. Glass fuses can drive you crazy.

I like to use a simple 12 volt test light on each end of fuses. This puts a bit of a load on them, not much but a digital voltmeter will read full voltage and the circuit may not support a real load.

Grab your digital voltmeter and put the negative probe on a good ground. Then hold the positive lead in your fingers and then touch the positive posts of a battery. You will read voltage. Of course you are not a light bulb and not enough current is flowing to feel anything. This is just a demonstration how a digital voltmeter can fool you.
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Old 11-07-2017, 09:22 PM   #13
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I'll try to get a photo posted, and yes I used a 12 volt test light to determine it .
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:54 AM   #14
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Ok, so maybe I am just simple, but I have the same problem. I checked the disconnect switch, and fiddling with it, used to get the house battery to charge sometimes when I ran the engine. But that quit when I had the starter switch replaced, not sure why.

So, two simple things fixed everything. First, my one (that's right one) house battery is up front just across the engine from the other battery. So, I just got a battery wire at the auto parts store, $2 or $3 bucks, and ran it from the starting battery positive post to the house battery positive post. Now, second, I got one of those cheap voltage meters at Walmart, $8-12 is all it cost, and wired it to my house battery. Tells me when it is charging, and when it needs charged. If I don't want to drain my starting battery, I just disconnect the wire and let it hang down if I am parked, and use a wire tie to tie it up when I drive. As bad as my house battery is now, I usually don't disconnect it except when I am parked and don't want to drain the starting battery.
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