Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-21-2012, 12:45 AM   #1
Senior Member
vsheetz's Avatar

Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 12,937
How do you deal with unlevel RV spaces?

My previous coach I never had much of a problem. Was a three leveler system. One in the center front and two in the rear. And you could bump them either up or down.

New coach has four leveler system. The two in the front operate only in unison. The rear two can be individually controlled. However for all there is only down control. The only up is all up / retracting.

Hints and experiences please - thanks!

Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
vsheetz is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 07-21-2012, 05:19 AM   #2
Senior Member
trackman's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,136
I always carry a couple 2x4 and 2x6 short boards. When I figure which side needs the most lift I put the needed boards under the tires on that side then use the levelers. When the ground is very uneven I simply use the boards and leave the levelers just touching the ground for roc and roll stability.

trackman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2012, 06:02 AM   #3
Senior Member
TGR's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 149
I have 4 jacks which take care of it most of the time. Have had a few sites which were so bad my front tire was lifted off the ground. In those situations, I try to position the RV a little better in the spot. If still a problem, I put it up on some 1" or 2" 12x12 blocks I carry. Then I make a note about the site in my notebook.

On a side note, I think the campground owners should take more in leveling their sites. I can understand a couple inches of slope, but 4" - 6" is a bit much.
TGR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2012, 06:18 AM   #4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,609
Not familiar with your system, but it sounds like it might make me crazy enough to be looking for a different control. People with the same one might be able to provide more help if you would share more info about what system you have?
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2012, 06:18 AM   #5
Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mcdonough, Ga.
Posts: 4,548
I took my motorhome for a factory install. They taught me to always level the low side or end first. Then let the rest of the jacks down until they just touch the ground.
1998 Pace Arrow 35 ft. F53 Ford V10 2012 Honda Civic toad
32 years mechanic at Delta Air Lines 15 year motorhome service manager. 3 popups....2 travel trailers....5 motorhomes....loved them all.
ga traveler is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2012, 06:43 AM   #6
Moderator Emeritus
Gary RVRoamer's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Silver Springs, FL. USA
Posts: 18,640
You probably have the Power Gear system, where the two front jacks are coupled to one valve, allowing it to equalize side-to-side when the rear jacks are adjusted. This prevents chassis twist while still providing support at both front corners.

You adjust this type very much like a three jack system. First get them all down to the ground. Then raise the front enough to get some substantial weight on the front jacks. If the front is low, bring it up to near the height you want. If the front is not, still put enough pressure on the front jacks so that the jacks are carrying at least part of the weight. Then begin adjusting the rear jacks. The front can and will shift a bit to compensate as the right or left rear jacks go down. That is normal. Raise the rear as needed and use them to control the tilt left or right until you get level, Then fine tune the front height.

These jacks are spring retracted, so they all go up together when the "retract' button is pushed. But you can hit retract and then quickly turn the system off to stop them. Or use the down buttons to stop movement on each jack (varies by controller type). You don't have to let them retract all the way and start completely over again. Once you get the hang of it, it's easy enough.
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition
Home is in the Ocala Nat'l Forest near Ocala, FL
Summers in Black Mountain, NC
Gary RVRoamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2012, 10:42 AM   #7
Senior Member
PDR John's Avatar
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,643
I used to carry 2X6s but after the 3 place in a row that was so unlevel we jump to 4X6 3ft long. This was the worst, all weight was left on the tires. Jacks were only for stabilization.

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_8145_1 [hj].JPG
Views:	492
Size:	98.5 KB
ID:	23774

We were stuck there for a week.
2013 DSDP 4347, all electric, 450 H.P. ISL
Air & hydraulic leveling
14 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland toad
PDR John is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2012, 10:52 AM   #8
RV Mutant #14
Wayne M's Avatar

Winnebago Owners Club
Texas Boomers Club
Freightliner Owners Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 12,706
As Gary stated except that I do not have springs. My Kwikee system has two hydraulic lines to each jack. One for raising and one for the return of hydraulic fluid when retracting.

In the "Auto" mode the air bags are deflated and 20 seconds later the back and front driver side jacks deploy. They will raise the driver side an inch or two and then the passenger side tries to catch up. They automatically "bump" to achieve level. All of my jacks work in pairs, each side pair, or each front pair, or each rear pair. Most likely in pairs to keep the frame from twisting.

Sometimes when a significant difference in level state I have to use the manual mode. In that case I let the system work, but as soon as the first set of jacks touch the ground I turn the system off, then I turn it back on and use the "Bi-Level" manual mode and control each pair of jacks.

I also carry six 2x8x16" boards with 5/8" plywood attached to the surface of each board. Each board has a 45 degree angle on one end for easy ride-up. I have never had to use all six at one time as typically only one side needs that type of leveling. I also carry two bags of "Linx" leveling blocks but they have the hexagonal design and are only used as bottom strata to get up on the flat boards. I can also use the boards and Linx under the jacks. However, my specific system states to not use blocks more that 3" under the jacks as when retracting there may not be enough clearance for the jacks to go all the way up.

As stated, you can start the retract-all and immediately stop it and then re-level as needed.

Happy trails.
Wayne MSGT USMC (Ret) & Earlene (CinCHouse)
2015 Winnebago Tour 42QD
It is what it is, and then it is what you make of it.
Wayne M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2012, 12:28 PM   #9
Senior Member
wa8yxm's Avatar
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 23,967
You have the same system I have.. Raise the front first.

Then bring the rear jacks down and level side to side

If needed raise the front a bit more, those jacks will self adjust side to side.

That simple.

Wish mine worked right. (Actually they might, Won't know till WED when I give them the real test)
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2012, 07:11 AM   #10
Senior Member
bgsc's Avatar
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Home is were we park it
Posts: 290
We always carry 2x10 pieces of wood for levelling
Barry and Glennice, Kit and Kaboodle (Lhaso Apso's)
2008 Winnebago Tour WD, GMC Terrain toad
bgsc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2012, 07:27 AM   #11
Senior Member
Jon Mopar's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 596
blocks of scrap wood....your new best friend
36ft Damon Intruder Class A - 37ft National Sea Breeze LX Class A
-Past RVs: 19ft Sportsman, 24ft Jayco, 30ft Coachmen Mirada. We had some good times.
"Im a car guy...you've been warned" lol
Jon Mopar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2012, 07:47 AM   #12
Senior Member
okie-dokie's Avatar
Fleetwood Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 364
I carry a small shovel with me. Sometimes I have to dig a small hole on the right or left side, where the rear dual tires would be, in case the site is unlevel. The hole is usually no more than four to six inches deep. Then I lower my jacks.
Bill, enrolled member of Choctaw Tribe. 2005 Fleetwood/Revolution,AFE Filter,Aero Exhaust,Koni FSD shocks,KarKaddy SS. Progressive HW-50C.
okie-dokie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2012, 08:16 AM   #13
Community Moderator
"007"'s Avatar

Nor'easters Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 27,876
John that block setup you have is scary did you have wheel chocks on front wheels, if it all slipped could do damage to under side.
Movement in coach could rock jacks off wood stands.
I have always been told never lift rear wheels off ground could bend front jack pistons.
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans, now in good hands
"007" is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2012, 09:10 AM   #14
Senior Member
SVTotem's Avatar
Winnebago Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 626
The big reason for keeping rear wheels on ground is maintain emergency brake effectiveness. If those wheels are off the ground there is nothing to stop the MH from rolling other than chocks.

Bill Burgner, '05 Journey, 350 CAT
'05 Wrangler LJR, Blue Ox Aventa, Air Force One
SVTotem is offline   Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:02 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.