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Old 08-04-2010, 05:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Roberts View Post
I drive up on to blocks of wood;
Bingo.

Make yourself some ramps. I used ramps like these for leveling (and mechanic'n) for 15 years. You can make them 4-1/2" tall using 6' long lumber, or you can make them 6" tall using 10' long lumber. Each step will be 12" long, plenty of room for the tire to sit flat on each step, and your motorhome should climb it easily. You'll want a spotter to let you know when you're centered up on the top steps...

Buy one 6 or 10 foot 2 x 10 plank for each wheel, cut to length and screw each piece together with deck screws. They're safe & work great. Flip them end-over-end and stack on top of each other to store them...

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Old 08-05-2010, 06:41 AM   #16
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The boards I have are just 2 feet long. I put 1 up against the tire and then 2 stacked together after that. Then I drive up on the 1 board then the 2 boards.

You only need to move the coach 4 feet.

They're lighter than jack stands (don't get pressure treated wood, it weighs more and you don't need it) and are much easier to store than jack stands.

Plus, they serve double-duty. I use them in some locations where my spot is not close to level.

They're a lot cheaper and you can get Lowes or Home Depot to cut them to size.

Whatever works for you is what matters, though. Just be extra careful with whichever option you choose.
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:06 AM   #17
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Useless info from Seajay

the wooden ramps look like a wonderful idea and they would have many other uses as well.
one. you could place them under your jacks for added height
two. Nested stacked you could use them as a ''bottom step'' if necessary.
three. in an emergency, they would make good fire wood ....lol... (im teasing)
Remember this.... If you do use them under your tires you must make one for each ''duel'' rear tire. NOT JUST ONE UNDER ONE OF THE TIRES. If you do this you will put the weight of the entire rear of the coach on ONE TIRE AND THIS CAN CAUSE TROUBLE later on.
If you use this valuable information you must pay me ten cents the next time you see me........ (good info aint cheap).....
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Old 08-05-2010, 12:07 PM   #18
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A MOMENT OF COMMON SENSE. If you can not figure how to get under your Motorhome safely, for the love of everything holy, don't go under it. YOU WILL DIE.
Seajay, I like the firewood suggestion !!
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Old 08-05-2010, 12:28 PM   #19
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A MOMENT OF COMMON SENSE. If you can not figure how to get under your Motorhome safely, for the love of everything holy, don't go under it. YOU WILL DIE.
Seajay, I like the firewood suggestion !!
Noted. The best way I've found to "figure out" things is to not be afraid to ask questions on this forum.
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Old 08-05-2010, 01:31 PM   #20
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RickO, I agree This website has great information. Just browsing the different posts gives one lots of ideas on things that could go wrong and what to do if that happens. The information can save you thousands of dollars even if you have the work done elsewhere. At least you can make sure the repair shop is giving you the correct infomation.
I hope you don't mind my bizarre sense of humor. Thats where my Pvt. E1 Ret. in my signature line comes from. Keep smiling !!!
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Old 08-05-2010, 01:34 PM   #21
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RickO, I agree This website has great information. Just browsing the different posts gives one lots of ideas on things that could go wrong and what to do if that happens. The information can save you thousands of dollars even if you have the work done elsewhere. At least you can make sure the repair shop is giving you the correct infomation.
I hope you don't mind my bizarre sense of humor. Thats where my Pvt. E1 Ret. in my signature line comes from. Keep smiling !!!
Couldn't agree more Chuck. All is well.
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Old 08-05-2010, 04:45 PM   #22
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I don't crawl under any more. I call up my 43 year old son and make an appointment. He changes the oil and greases the chassis and drive shaft. Plus he has changed the shock absorbers and installed a rear track bar.
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Old 08-05-2010, 05:30 PM   #23
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Well.. I drive a gasser, not a DP.. But it has enough ground clearance that 320 pound me can crawl around it with the leveling jacks in the "UP" (road) position and the wheels full on the ground.. No danger of it falling off a jack, NO JACK.

So long as you are not doing anything that requires raising the wheels, you can bring it up around 4-6 inches by laying plank down. Lay down 3 2x6 edge to edge so that lengthwise is "Across" the tire path. Lay 2 more on top of them edgewise centered on the 3 and one more on top of those two also centered. About the best I can offer.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:20 PM   #24
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I do all I can on my Allegro Bay gasser. I am like seajay, I don't trust most of the idiots who call themselves rv mechanic. At $90 hr, it can add up fast. Luckily, I have lost weight and can crawl (just barely)unde my rv to do most of my maintenance.
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Old 08-06-2010, 05:44 AM   #25
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Also, life under the motorhome is better using a creeper. Of course you lose a couple of inches of clearance, but it's so much easier. Those couple of inches are why I now drive up on a couple of boards.

As another poster mentioned, and I left unclear, you need boards for each rear tire if you raise the rear.
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Old 08-13-2010, 12:10 PM   #26
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My MH has a low profile and air leveling (no jacks).

I use wood ramps and jackstands when necessary.

I use a creeper occasionally.

I find a large flattened cardboard box allows me to slide around much like the creeper does and also serves as a spill soak but gives back the two inches vertical that the creeper needs.
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Old 08-14-2010, 07:24 AM   #27
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Normally use my MH jacks to raise the MH and then I put cemet blocks under the frame.

Have not got a rim for my spare yet. Other than that I have all tools including Torque Wrench for changing tires on the road, but I still use Coach-net.
Cement blocks are pretty dangerous. Over the years there have been a lot of people that made the news by getting crushed under their vehicle due to a cement block suddenly cracking/splitting.

Jim
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:05 AM   #28
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I just walk under motor home.
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