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Old 07-15-2015, 09:41 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by cb1000rider View Post
The first place to start is with some basic maintenance:
1) Clean the filters
2) Remove the covers (roof and inside) - clean the coils. Cleaning the inside coil can be a little tricky, but you'd be surprised how much stuff builds up.

Check performance, they should do a 20 degree temperature drop compared to ambient (inlet vs outlet).

When it's 102 out, you may have to get selective about what you cool...

The ducted units are inherently less efficient and "waste" cooling (IMHO). They pass air through ducts that are essentially less insulated than non-ducted systems. My current RV has an option to essentially use the ducts or dump the AC at the unit - and this seems to work a bit better... but start with the basics.
If you don't mind, I'll add an addendum to your good advice. The ducted air conditioners-ductwork at the unit, often have unsealed chilled air ductwork between intake and exhaust. This allows warm air to enter the chilled air section of the ductwork, with a result of inefficient cooling.
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Old 07-15-2015, 09:55 PM   #16
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If you don't mind, I'll add an addendum to your good advice. The ducted air conditioners-ductwork at the unit, often have unsealed chilled air ductwork between intake and exhaust. This allows warm air to enter the chilled air section of the ductwork, with a result of inefficient cooling.
I thoroughly agree to this, where the 110 and 12v wires comes to the unit look for leaks that let chilled air into the roof! Seal everything and insulate. I took readings with a sound meter and reduced the noise my ACs produced by 3 decibels x 3 units!
Also agree on cleaning the fins on the inside of the ac from the inside.this will help air flow tremendously. My ACs pulls alr down to 44degrees out the vent (not the plenum the vent) no matter what temp it outside. We run our middle AC to cool our whole coach, and the other 2 units 2degrees over that one. They very seldom come on.
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Old 07-15-2015, 10:36 PM   #17
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From what I've read, 15 degrees is about what you should expect from your ac units. I have basement air. What we did, was remove the ceiling vent from the front of our coach, and added a third ac unit. Made a significant difference in the Temp. Did forget the difference in sound levels though.
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Old 07-15-2015, 10:54 PM   #18
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all good helps
clean the filters, clean the evap coils, clean the heat coil
and cover the big windshield with a cover that blocks as much radiant heat as possible
we pull all shades in the heat of the day,
all the registers were taped up to seal off the air loss to the ceiling area
turn off the heaters..big screen tv put out a HUGE truckload of heat

we keep our coach at 77F , but at times the heat over takes and they dotn shut off till late in the evening

even use window shades on the door, awnings out if possible.
our front cap is or was horribly insulated ...i stuffed some insulation in empty areas.
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:32 AM   #19
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Try insulating your front cap behind the TV & cabinets. It will make a significant difference. I just did mine & wish I had done it sooner.

I did that last year! Thanks!
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:36 AM   #20
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Thanks for your suggestions everyone!
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:39 AM   #21
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X2 Would like to know also. Thanks
We live south Texas - the best we do is about 10 degrees below outside temp in the living room - bedroom without the windows and smaller area does much better
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:18 AM   #22
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Good info in this thread!

We have two 15K Dometic units, ducted, on our 40' coach. We use a cover on the front windscreen, keep the side window wings out, and will extend the large awning if that side is in direct sunlight. When we added our Solar Panels, we had Buskote applied, and we also straddled the showers skylight. I always felt the skylight was our second highest gain of heat. The shading of the solar panels, really cut down on the heat point, and we still get lighting in from the skylight, but admittedly greatly reduced lighting.

One tip not yet mentioned, is to get some curtain rods and place a piece of insulated foam in the skylight. That really helps the heat gain reduction. (We did this for three years, and no longer do this due to the Solar Panel shading.)

Our third highest heat gain, seems to be from the rear of the coach. It's painted a dark maroon over the bulk of there ear end, so lots of dark paint to attract the heat. I've told the wife that I'm thinking of getting sheets of rigid insulation, about 2" thick, and attaching it to the back the closet. Then scary on some glue and attach a cloth of her color choice to this. Her concern is the hanger space is a bit tight already. Option 2, one that I reviewed with a few of the Country Coach techs that helped build the coach, is to drill a few access holes into the rear of the closet, and use the expanding scary foam to help fill in any gaps. Our coach did have 'some' insulation in this area during manufacturing. Removing the access panel to the rear view camera, shows this, but still some areas of air gap to the rear closet panel. (My bet is I'll lose the closet space war with the DW, and will probably try the expanding foam in a can approach.)

Another way to really help reduce heat gain, and loss during the colder times, is to again get some rigid board insulation, and cut it to fit the back of your cabinet spaces. When we open our cabinets, heat is much higher (Of course, the AC is not circulating into the cabinets, so I expect hire temps. But, I think it will also help reduce heat gain into the overall coach.

We had our front cabinets insulation beefed up, even though they were pretty good, when we had the TV head number removed and new cabinet work. Still less insulted then the rest of the roof, but it helped.

Enjoy reading the tips of others, and specifics help!

Best to all,
Smitty
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:30 AM   #23
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I've just responded to this thread, with some other suggestions on insulation.

But, how about adding more info sharing on options on the differences between manufactures of rooftop AC's (I say rooftop, vs basement, as the OP started this thread on efficiencies of AC units, and his are rooftop.)

I've wondered why the technology advancements in home AC units, has not trickled down to the RV market. School, two or variable compressor stage, others. Why is this technology not available? Or is it, and I've missed finding them?

We have two rooftop 15K Dometic OEM AC's, ducted. They do a pretty good job on keeping our coach comfortable. But in really hot weather non shaded conditions, they need to be be cranking along on high fan (Auto setting), and we do end up opening the vents in the actual units themselves, as it dumps in the most direct cold air, at them mentioned much higher noise level. But even with these closed, using only the ducts vents, the front living area can be impacted by the sound.

Anyone run into any newer tech available for AC's? I've seen some threads on some DIY installs of the home Spit AC units, where the tongue of a trailer, or a rear mount on a fifth, was used for the compressor part. But don't see that as practical on most Class A's (Or C's, but this is a Class A forum.)

I would really not like to bump and roll the impact to our Solar Panels install, by adding a third AC to our roof top. Would only need it a few times a year, and as mentioned, it's already more noise then I like in the living area - a third unit, would just add to this noise level.

If a more efficient rooftop air was available, I would spring for cost to add it. Especially if it is quieter DB, may only do the front zone.

OP - Hope you don't mind me asking this within your thread, but the theme of 'efficiency' seemed to allow this!

Best to all,
Smitty
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:34 AM   #24
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Not to mix apples with oranges: but hearing all the issues with two AC's is why I bought and insisted on 3 15000 BTU ACs. (typically you can only get three if you exceed 40' I believe) My coach during hot days still runs allot but stays in the low 70's. Someone buying a new or used coach, I would recommend the three AC's not two or at least more BTUs. In Alabama last week, high 90's with high humidity, feels like 106, I was very comfortable. I have also found putting a fan at the midpoint of coach and blowing towards the front windshield has made a world of difference as well in keeping temperture balanced inside coach.
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Old 07-16-2015, 03:49 PM   #25
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I just took my covers off my '97 as they seemed to be little off..wow is all I can say.. the dirt and cotton was unreal..i had to blow for 15 minutes each..used a 3' nozzle with bent end and didn't have to bend over,cept to get dscrews off cover...jeff





Quote:
Originally Posted by cb1000rider View Post
The first place to start is with some basic maintenance:
1) Clean the filters
2) Remove the covers (roof and inside) - clean the coils. Cleaning the inside coil can be a little tricky, but you'd be surprised how much stuff builds up.

Check performance, they should do a 20 degree temperature drop compared to ambient (inlet vs outlet).

When it's 102 out, you may have to get selective about what you cool...

The ducted units are inherently less efficient and "waste" cooling (IMHO). They pass air through ducts that are essentially less insulated than non-ducted systems. My current RV has an option to essentially use the ducts or dump the AC at the unit - and this seems to work a bit better... but start with the basics.
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Old 07-16-2015, 04:04 PM   #26
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Dear friends have a 38' Beaver and 2 Dometic rooftop units I believe they are 13.5 as well. It is a 2006 model, and they have the front outside screens, window awnings, etc, but in San Antonio 2 years ago with 109 degree highs, their coach even with retracting all 4 slides would only cool into the mid 80's which just isn't enough. The problem was air FLOW, and I suggested an oscillating fan to move that air up front, that was the key! It really helped it immensely, cooled the unit down to the upper 70's just by moving the air.

I think that coach should have had 2 15,000 btu units, but thats my opinion only.

My little 32' coach has a 13,500 up front and an 8,000 in back and even in 110 temps it stays nice in the mid 70's. It is also white which I think does have some impact on the summer heat temperatures too.

But traveling in that 110 heat, the chassis and compartments are so hot up front from the engine heat, it doesn't takes a while to cool down when we stop for the day up front. I opened the front basement compartment and pulled out my little table and it was so hot to the touch I almost needed gloves. Amazing how that heat from the engine (not to mention ambient temp heat) and traveling transfers and heats everything up.

Great ideas on here, but best bet is to get you a couple of nice oscillating fan towers and set up in your front to mix all that cooler air at floor level up with the higher level air, since cool air falls.

Hope this helps!
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Old 07-16-2015, 06:48 PM   #27
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We camped out at Pleasant Harbor two days ago. With outside temperatures about 102 when we got there, we had low 70's inside. But we have 3 roof ACs with 15,000 Btus each.

That's the ticket- more BTUs- we have the same. and can hang meat inside the coach
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:06 PM   #28
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I'd suggest you put a thermometer in the output and actually know the temperature of the air coming out of the AC. Could it possibly be the units are not working as well as they should or did originally and maybe a new updated AC units would help resolve the problem.
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