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Old 09-21-2015, 01:09 AM   #15
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The flap doesn't need to hit the ground to cause a problem. If it hangs too low (<4-5") it can create a pressure diff that sucks up grit and sand, and sometimes small pebbles that will then fly into the toad. I've installed a Protect-a-Tow, which I think is a far more effective design.


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Old 09-21-2015, 06:36 AM   #16
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find a good level parking surface, dump your air bags - now you have a great way to mount the rear wheel flaps by simply 'standing' them on the ground behind the wheels - it tells you exactly where to mount them : )
[you can also provide a 'slot' type hole, running down another 1" or so, for the screws, so that if you lower your bags at a less than level site, it has the ability to slide up the slot to keep it from binding, if you are using a more stiff type flap(like mine I bought from a Freightliner service center)]
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:31 AM   #17
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After I took the advertisement off, the regular mud flaps were all I needed.
My ad-flap was 4.5 inches up, but debris was scared up with each bounce or dip at highway speed.
My work is done!
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:52 PM   #18
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The first line of defense are the mud flaps behind the dual wheels. If you have a tag, hopefully they have left a way for you to hang a mud flap behind those as well.
We do lower the coach to the ground, then set the length to be 1-1.5" off the ground so you do not hit the ground with them. The mud flaps should be stiff enough to not fly up behind the coach as you go down the road. these will fix about 80% of the problem. When you air up the coach you should be at least 4" off the ground. If you do not have air bags, put the mud flaps 4-6" off the ground.
The width is also important. Many coaches come with mud flaps that are not the full width of the tires. The mud flaps should be about 1" wider than the tires if you can fit them in the fender well. We have even cut the mud flaps to be thinner up inside the wheel well, and then come out another 1" beyond the coach body at the bottom.
The back mud flap does need to be at least 4" off the ground. We go for 5" off when we can. While we hear lots of stories of the damage the mud flap has done when hung too low, we also hear lots of stories of how the back mud flap has stopped lumber or dead tires that the coach has to straddle, from reaching the toad. Often those mud flaps end up t-boned from that hazard, but that was much better than what it could have done to the tow vehicle. So there are pros and cons to everything.
Me, I was happy when it stopped the squirrel guts from getting on my CRV
You can read more about mud flaps at the vendors spotlight site.
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Old 09-22-2015, 11:04 AM   #19
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When I replaced mine last spring, I made them about 3 inches above the ground.

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Old 09-22-2015, 06:31 PM   #20
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Hi everyone! Sorry for being a little dense, but I'm not quite understanding the physics of how removing the ad-flap on the back of a rig reduces the amount of debris that hits the tow'd. I'm not doubting it, I just don't get it.

I'd kinda like to take mine off, but for very different reasons. Three times I've parked in spots that were high in the rear; each time I leveled the rig I forgot about the flap and crushed it either into the dirt or up into the undercarriage. I haven't done any damage to date, but it's only a mater of time, so removing it would relieve my memory issues.

Still, I'd like to understand why removing the flap results in less debris.

Thanks!
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Old 09-22-2015, 10:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wryly Blithe View Post
Hi everyone! Sorry for being a little dense, but I'm not quite understanding the physics of how removing the ad-flap on the back of a rig reduces the amount of debris that hits the tow'd. I'm not doubting it, I just don't get it.

I'd kinda like to take mine off, but for very different reasons. Three times I've parked in spots that were high in the rear; each time I leveled the rig I forgot about the flap and crushed it either into the dirt or up into the undercarriage. I haven't done any damage to date, but it's only a mater of time, so removing it would relieve my memory issues.

Still, I'd like to understand why removing the flap results in less debris.

Thanks!

IMHO, the rear flap either drags on the ground and flings debris up or, it comes close enough to the ground and causes a turbulence below the flap that results in whatever is on the road to be thrown up behind the coach. As explained in an earlier post, the rear flap is useful in preventing gators from hitting the toad but it causes the run of the mill debris to become airborne.
Personally, I rebuilt and raised my flap as high as I could (about 6" off the road) but still was plagued with crud on the back of the coach and toad and finally just removed it.
I still use a Blueox Karguard (would prefer the Protect A Tow but due to the rear exhaust it does not work on my DS) and rely on it to prevent the big stuff from destroying the toad. So far, so good on that count.
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:34 AM   #22
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I Agee removing the rear mud flap isn't good for the tow vehicle. I had a rear inside tire blow back in July and if hadn't been there it would have really done some damage to my tow vehicle. So I say leave it and adjust to 4" to 5"
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:50 AM   #23
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I have an ad-flap and removed last spring for one trip. The toad was covered with road grime and road salt while going through West Virgina in March. I put it back on after that trip and no more problems. It is about 6 inches off the road.
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Old 09-23-2015, 10:22 AM   #24
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how high should class a rear wheel flap be off the ground

Sounds like the dynamics of air flow is different for many rigs, including the length between rear tire flaps and the back of the coach. Some get damage with and some without an ad-flap.
Wonder if my length with tag axle and a side radiator make part of the difference? Hmmmm
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Old 09-24-2015, 12:34 AM   #25
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There are many things to take into mind when deciding on the mud flap on the back. The distance from the dual wheels makes a difference, the height from the ground to the bottom of the coach makes a difference. the height of the tow vehicle off the ground makes a difference.
No matter what, the distance of the mud flap off the ground is important. We suggest starting with the right mud flaps in the fender well, then if you still have a problem, add the right size mud flap on the back.
I keep seeing it called an ad mud flap. Remember you can have whatever you want put on that stainless steel piece, or even save money and have it left blank. The weight is necessary to keep the mud flap hanging straight down and doing it's job, but it can be blank.
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Old 09-24-2015, 06:27 AM   #26
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A couple years ago, I had our 26' enclosed Aluminum trailer painted to match the coach. Last year, I began noticing paint chips on it. This year there were hundreds of chips on it. I just took it in to have the entire front sanded and repainted. They are going to put Diamond Shield over the clear coat. An $800 expense I didn't need. It has a stone guard on the lower 20", but the chips were as high as 7' off the ground. I was going to raise the flap up, but think I will remove it entirely now.
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Old 09-24-2015, 10:54 PM   #27
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After reading this whole thread, I'm reconsidering my decision to remove the ad-flap on the back of my rig. I don't ever get any kind of film or debris on the back of my coach - it's typically the cleanest section of the rig after a long drive. I also tow my car on a dolly so the front end is elevated above any debris spray from the drive axle / tag... even if there were any, it's unlikely to damage the car. Chip the paint on the dolly maybe, but who cares?

Sounds like the old 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' kinda deal - for me, at least - so I think I'll just leave it right where it is... until I crush it beyond recognition one of these days

Thanks to everyone for clarifying!
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Old 09-25-2015, 07:42 AM   #28
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Well, mine is off and my trailer is repainted with the 3M Diamond Shield, so we'll see what happens. Anyone need a full width flap with "Allegro Bus" on it??
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