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Old 09-07-2011, 05:13 AM   #15
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Gosh, why must you attack this member? He joined in July and has only 3 post. At least he shared something of interest. I hope he will continue to post. Perhaps, he could get you to edit his post before it is actually posted.
I welcome your comments on my grammar and punctuation. Only, please tell me what and how to correct my mistakes.
I'm original from Georgia. I know it's hard to believe, but, I still make stupid mistakes.
Please correct me.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:25 AM   #16
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I guess that I will have to be more careful with my posts as the grammer police are out. I didn't even notice the paragragh thing as I read it but I don't have a college education just a diesel grease monkey, You know EGR's DPF, and ECM's. Let him figure those symbols out.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:38 AM   #17
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Hukt on fonix shur didit for mi.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:42 AM   #18
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"M", good post its hard to correct when you place a long post and may run out of time to edit.
When I first started on this forum in 04 as new member I did the same and people had to criticized me also.
I still may do it in long threads but people seem more tolerant of me now.
So keep posting your ideas they are needed by people who need the help.
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:06 PM   #19
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I don't have any handling problems but was contemplating adding a rear track bar. This post was helpful by validating the value of a rear track bar.

I searched Camping World and found the track bars but unfortunately they don't carry paragraphs. Can I install an aftermarket track bar without paragraphs?
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:18 PM   #20
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Hey - I have a 35' Fleetwood w/tag axle...how can I tell if I have a track-bar...sorry but I don't know - RV'ing is new for us...it does exactly what you described - pushes over to the side when a vehicle with a larger air push goes by...otherwise handles somewhat well but I feel it could be better...anyway - thanks for the info!
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:44 PM   #21
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A track bar goes from the axle to the frame. it holds the axle true to the frame with no side to side movement
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:22 PM   #22
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The only way to know is to get under your Motorhome and look. Look for a bar that is parallel to the rear axle one end is connected to the frame and the other is connected the axle. I will have large rubber bushings on each end and it's length is adjustable. To see what one looks like do a Google search for rear track bar and you will find several.
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Old 09-08-2011, 05:56 AM   #23
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Here is what it looks like:
http://images.campingworld.com/is/im...=0,-1&hei=1000

...without the paragraphs!
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:23 AM   #24
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Here is a link to suspension products to stabilize your coach.
Firstpoet, the tag axel should make your coach true to track so you should not feel the passing of trucks or buses, may have some problem with suspension.
If everything is OK you could add track bar on main drive wheel suspension.
You can look through this link for any TSB problem you might have with a suspension problem fo your year coach chassis.
Link can be found in the Ford Chassis forum.
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:24 AM   #25
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M,

I thought your process of repairing the "slip rings" was outstanding.

Thanks very much for your input to the forum.


Ed, get over it!


Cheers,
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:45 PM   #26
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I didn't see any graphs there at all!

On the subject of Mor-Ryde handling, I installed a pair of Monroe MA739 air shocks on my '90 P30 with Mor-Ryde, a tip I got from Big-Dan on this forum. I run ~ 50 psi, which, according to Big-Dan, adds about 300 lb of spring force. The shocks are located pretty far outboard, giving them pretty good leverage. They reduced the tail-wagging-the-dog behavior of my rig considerably. I can change the air pressure to adjust for road conditions, tank weights, etc.

Another good thing about these shocks; $63 total cost from Amazon for BOTH shocks.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:28 PM   #27
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What Ed means is (and I suspect most of you already know this) that it is difficult for some of us old-timers to read a whole lot of words all bunched together.

Seperating (like this) and breaking them up into smaller groups enables the eyes to see them more clearly, thus allowing the brain to comprehend their meaning,
which in turn, conveys the important wisdom the writer wishes to present.

And by the way, OP, thanks for the valuable info, as now I have some insight as to fixing my handling problems.

As for the slipring stuff, great info. I have been a mechanic for 45yrs, and could 'mentally' repair just about anything that comes along. But.... now my arthritis and bad back won't allow it anymore, so I just end up paying someone to fix most things for me.

See...this was all ED was talking about....just a little spreading out.
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:29 PM   #28
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I've found that it helps to type slower.

Good post about the slip ring. Sounds like something I would do.
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