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Old 08-31-2011, 12:44 PM   #1
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How I resolved my handling problem and another fix.

I have a 1992 Holiday Rambler 33 foot Imperial with 70,000 miles on a Ford F53 chassis with a 460 Cubic inch V8 engine. I purchased it 3 years ago it is very clean, and everything works. However, handling was poor. When a truck or big SUV passed their air stream pushed me to the right, I was always moving the steering wheel to go straight. I tried many things to fix this including, Steer Safe, Bilstein shocks, it already had a Davis Trac in the front. Although the problem improved some it was still there. I was exploring putting new bushings in the rear sway bar but when I checked there was no sway bar as it had Mor-ryde rear suspension with a tag axle. However, there was a rear trac bar as part of the Mor-ryde suspension. I contacted Mor-ryde via email and got a prompt response. They suggested trying adjusting the trac bar and emailed me a service manual. When I went to adjust the trac bar I found the lock nut was way out of position and the threads were greatly worn where the nut welded to the long tube of the trac bar should be adjusted to. I went ahead with the adjustment of the bar length and was able to screw the lock nut into place in spite of the worn threads and tighted a reasonable amount. I just took the Motor home out for a test drive and what a difference all of the aforementioned problems were gone or greatly improved. Apparently not only was the trac bar maladjusted but allowed for a good bit of play due to the lock nut not being engaged and the warn threads. So if you have a track bar check it!
Now for the other problem. The cruise control and horn button are mounted in the center of the steering wheel and the electrical connections (2) are passed through 2 slip rings at the base of the steering wheel. You have to remove the steering wheel to see them. Well my slip rings each had a wear spot where the copper contact on the rings was worn off. You cannot get a replacement from Ford so I made the part. All you need is 3 different sized hole saws and a piece of copper clad fiberglass board which is available at Radio Shack. Since I hobby in electronics and have etched circuit boards I had the copper clad board. With the 3 different sized hole saws you cut the board to the max round size then use a slightly smaller saw to remove the copper just to the fiberglass so you can have 2 different circuits and the 3rd size makes the hold for the center hub on the steering wheel. Drill 2 small holes for the wires, solder them to the 2 circuit rings, cement them to the steering wheel with silicone RTV and you have problem solved.
M
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:37 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmcl26554 View Post
I have a 1992 Holiday Rambler 33 foot Imperial with 70,000 miles on a Ford F53 chassis with a 460 Cubic inch V8 engine. I purchased it 3 years ago it is very clean, and everything works. However, handling was poor. When a truck or big SUV passed their air stream pushed me to the right, I was always moving the steering wheel to go straight. I tried many things to fix this including, Steer Safe, Bilstein shocks, it already had a Davis Trac in the front. Although the problem improved some it was still there. I was exploring putting new bushings in the rear sway bar but when I checked there was no sway bar as it had Mor-ryde rear suspension with a tag axle. However, there was a rear trac bar as part of the Mor-ryde suspension. I contacted Mor-ryde via email and got a prompt response. They suggested trying adjusting the trac bar and emailed me a service manual. When I went to adjust the trac bar I found the lock nut was way out of position and the threads were greatly worn where the nut welded to the long tube of the trac bar should be adjusted to. I went ahead with the adjustment of the bar length and was able to screw the lock nut into place in spite of the worn threads and tighted a reasonable amount. I just took the Motor home out for a test drive and what a difference all of the aforementioned problems were gone or greatly improved. Apparently not only was the trac bar maladjusted but allowed for a good bit of play due to the lock nut not being engaged and the warn threads. So if you have a track bar check it!
Now for the other problem. The cruise control and horn button are mounted in the center of the steering wheel and the electrical connections (2) are passed through 2 slip rings at the base of the steering wheel. You have to remove the steering wheel to see them. Well my slip rings each had a wear spot where the copper contact on the rings was worn off. You cannot get a replacement from Ford so I made the part. All you need is 3 different sized hole saws and a piece of copper clad fiberglass board which is available at Radio Shack. Since I hobby in electronics and have etched circuit boards I had the copper clad board. With the 3 different sized hole saws you cut the board to the max round size then use a slightly smaller saw to remove the copper just to the fiberglass so you can have 2 different circuits and the 3rd size makes the hold for the center hub on the steering wheel. Drill 2 small holes for the wires, solder them to the 2 circuit rings, cement them to the steering wheel with silicone RTV and you have problem solved.
M
This post MAY be of interest, or value, but I refuse to try and read it without paragraphs.

Ed
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:07 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Ed-Sommers View Post
This post MAY be of interest, or value, but I refuse to try and read it without paragraphs.

Ed
So these post are not meant to help or inform. They are for english classes.
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:26 PM   #4
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ED,
What was your purpose in replying to my post the way you did? There are 2 paragraphs.
M
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Old 09-02-2011, 12:44 AM   #5
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I see two, fully formed, paragraphs...

Thanks for the tips mmcl!
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:29 AM   #6
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I see some helpful advice.. Others see a reason to complain.
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Old 09-03-2011, 04:25 PM   #7
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There are always those who feel superior and want to correct grammar. As you said, there are two easily seen paragraphs. Why do some people feel the need to be so critical? I've seen it on other posts when someone wants help or advice - the grammar police show up and criticize his post.
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:12 PM   #8
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If you pretend, they don't exist. Nothing better to do. And, OP, thanks for the info.
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:29 PM   #9
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mmcl, Good info - thank-you for taking the time to share it.
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Old 09-04-2011, 09:30 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Ed-Sommers View Post
This post MAY be of interest, or value, but I refuse to try and read it without paragraphs.

Ed
I must admit that Ed's post did take the wind out of my sails a bit, however, all the subsequent posts by others have made me feel much better about the matter. It is interesting Ed never responded to my question. If I wanted to get "nit picky" I could point out that Ed, also used bad grammar. In his post he said "....try and read..." where the correct usage is ......try to read...". Making the old adage "as ye sow so shall ye reap" correct in this case.
M
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:13 PM   #11
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ed please post a pic of ur rig so i can make sur i never to camp anywhere near u. i enjoyed the read
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Old 09-06-2011, 01:39 PM   #12
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ed please post a pic of ur rig so i can make sur i never to camp anywhere near u. i enjoyed the read
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:46 PM   #13
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Ed, thanks for your post. I will read it for it's intended value. I have learned a LOT of good info from the folks on this forum, including you.
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Old 09-06-2011, 07:22 PM   #14
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I'm still trying to figure out what Ed meant by
"I refuse to read it without paragraphs"?

I read without paragraphs just fine!
In fact, I can sometimes even read without my glasses!

Nevertheless...
Here's a dollar, Ed:

Buy yourself some paragraphs!
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