How long to wait to power up after de-winterization

[larliebler]

How long should I wait to power on electronics (the electronic toilets, inverter panel, refrig etc..) after I de-winterize and the temperature outside is still in the teens?

I was thinking of using my infrared temperature gun and when the electronics are equivalent to the room temperature, say 60, then it's safe to power them up?

[BirchyBoy]

We don’t have an inverter, but we’ve never waited. I turn on the fridge several hours before leaving. Turn on the furnace (and space heaters if parked) at a spot. Drain the water lines, flush them, then start to enjoy the time.

[twinboat]

Just turn them on when you want to use them.

Just like a modern car, full of electronics, we go out and start it in any temperature. If lucky we remote start it [emoji3]

[Sweetbriar]

Nothing comes to mind that can not or should not be energized if the system is not first warmed up. An absorption fridge may not function as you might expect when the external air temp is in the teens but you won't damage it. There are cold weather kits available for the more adventurous camper. A residential fridge may also respond differently when the room temp is below the setting for internal temps.

The one no-no I can think of is the electric side of a water heater. The heating element lasts about 30 seconds if energized without the water heater tank being filled.

I'm pretty much in and out of my coach all winter (driveway man cave). I don't de-winterize the potable water system or add any liquids to the waste water tanks but no problems with any of the electrical or electronics.

[larliebler]

Originally Posted by Sweetbriar

Nothing comes to mind that can not or should not be energized if the system is not first warmed up. An absorption fridge may not function as you might expect when the external air temp is in the teens but you won't damage it. There are cold weather kits available for the more adventurous camper. A residential fridge may also respond differently when the room temp is below the setting for internal temps.

The one no-no I can think of is the electric side of a water heater. The heating element lasts about 30 seconds if energized without the water heater tank being filled.

I'm pretty much in and out of my coach all winter (driveway man cave). I don't de-winterize the potable water system or add any liquids to the waste water tanks but no problems with any of the electrical or electronics.

So just for clarification, when you turn on the TV as an example when it's in freezing temperatures you don't wait for the TV to get to room temperature first before turning it on?

[grindstone01]

Originally Posted by larliebler

So just for clarification, when you turn on the TV as an example when it's in freezing temperatures you don't wait for the TV to get to room temperature first before turning it on?

There's no water in a TV to freeze? Just turn it on no matter the temp! You could check with the TV manufacture, but I have not seen any disclaimer on temp range for operating a TV.

[Sweetbriar]

Originally Posted by larliebler

So just for clarification, when you turn on the TV as an example when it's in freezing temperatures you don't wait for the TV to get to room temperature first before turning it on?

Nope. And the TV is an owner installed Vizio that replaced an SD tube type. Can't recall if it's an LCD or LED type but never gave it much thought either. No problems with the inverter or DVD player also. Do need to be a bit easier on plastic stuff. Starts to get brittle when cold and the gel/foam mattress topper does get rather stiff until warmed.

Wasn't there something from back in the 1990's regarding a liquid quartz TV display problems as room temperature dropped?

[larliebler]

Originally Posted by Sweetbriar

Nope. And the TV is an owner installed Vizio that replaced an SD tube type. Can't recall if it's an LCD or LED type but never gave it much thought either. No problems with the inverter or DVD player also. Do need to be a bit easier on plastic stuff. Starts to get brittle when cold and the gel/foam mattress topper does get rather stiff until warmed.

Wasn't there something from back in the 1990's regarding a liquid quartz TV display problems as room temperature dropped?

Thanks, and interesting.

[l1v3fr33ord1]

Originally Posted by larliebler

So just for clarification, when you turn on the TV as an example when it's in freezing temperatures you don't wait for the TV to get to room temperature first before turning it on?

I find it difficult to watch TV when it's that cold. ;-)

A question: Why would you de-winterize while the temperature outside is still in the teens and the coach is not up to "normal" internal temperatures? We wait to de-winterize until the temps are above freezing, usually a couple days out from home this time of year.

We got caught in sub-freezing temps in Washington, D.C. a few years ago, after de-winterizing, and barely escaped before things froze up- even with heat on in the coach. Don't want that worry again, if I can help it.

[steve52]

This is what Samsung says:

Samsung TVs can operate safely in rooms or areas in which temperatures range from 50° F to 104° F (10° C to 40° C). Temperatures outside the listed range will negatively affect the operation of your TV. Samsung TVs can be stored unused at temperatures ranging from -4° to 113° Fahrenheit (-20° to 45° Centigrade).

[BirchyBoy]

Originally Posted by Sweetbriar

Wasn't there something from back in the 1990's regarding a liquid quartz TV display problems as room temperature dropped?

My recollection is that the issue is in the name of the technology, liquid crystal display. At or below normal operating temp, the liquid wouldn’t respond as intended. Newer TV’s don’t have this liquid to contend with, just lights turning on/off.

[Mark_K5LXP]

From a pure temperature point of view there shouldn't be any problem at all but the only thing I'd be cognizant of is condensation. If it's humid inside and equipment is cold, water condensing in energized electronics can be an issue. Usually only a problem when bringing cold equipment suddenly into a warm room but if circumstances are just right, maybe in a cold RV where moist heat (say from a propane heater) is present. That being said, anything being actively operated that generates a bit of heat (like a converter) won't tend to condense moisture so generally it's not a problem.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

[larliebler]

Originally Posted by Mark_K5LXP

From a pure temperature point of view there shouldn't be any problem at all but the only thing I'd be cognizant of is condensation. If it's humid inside and equipment is cold, water condensing in energized electronics can be an issue. Usually only a problem when bringing cold equipment suddenly into a warm room but if circumstances are just right, maybe in a cold RV where moist heat (say from a propane heater) is present. That being said, anything being actively operated that generates a bit of heat (like a converter) won't tend to condense moisture so generally it's not a problem.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

I'm not a gambling man, so although it should be fine since there's no propane heat causing condensation, and Denver's pretty darn dry 90 percent of the time; I've decided I'm going to get the coach heated to about 60 and then power up the electronics. I use electric heat pretty much exclusively to avoid the condensation issues I experienced last year. I use propane as a backup, I set the thermostat to 55, but it never gets that cold in the coach.

[Crasher]

Before we went south for the winters, I never gave a second thought to what the temps were of any electronic device when turning them on. If I needed it, it was turned on and it worked as designed. I think that some tend to overthink these motorhomes and their equipment. Do whatever helps you sleep better.