Community Forums

alpha99 · 08-22-2015, 09:02 PM

Pinkertonk,

POR15 is a multi-step process, but you don't have to remove all the rust - it actually bonds to the rust. The result is bulletproof and will last the life of the coach. Auto restorers use it. I did some of the underside too.

I did my battery bay after battery spillage there. It is a mess to work with, but love how it turned out.

And you're right, use the gloves or you'll never get it off you! Great stuff. Would be a big, messy job to do the entire underside, though...

KIX · 08-22-2015, 09:06 PM

I agree with Clayobx. Ospho is a good product. For hard to access areas you can put it in a spray bottle and spray it. There is no one step process that will work. Get the flakey stuff off pretty soon......don't put it off.

LETMGROW · 08-23-2015, 06:02 AM

I live in northern New York state a few miles from the Canadian border. I also own an auto-truck repair shop. NY state has the well earned reputation for having the worst rust conditions for vehicles of anywhere in the country.
Our shop deals with rusted vehicles on a daily basis. Brake lines, fuel lines, frames rusting through, exhaust manifolds rusting away. After five years up here you can expect to start fighting this losing battle. Rust shows its ugly face everywhere. Every nook and cranny under a vehicle is a virtual rust trap.
Our roads get a dousing of salt and sand constantly throughout the winter months. In the event of a weather report predicting snow or icing the highway department trucks are out salting and sanding the roads. Bare blacktop turns white from spreading salt. This bare road policy all started in 1980 when the winter Olympics were held in Lake Placid NY. Our governor wanted to have everyone coming here to have a "good experience" while driving. When highway superintendents saw all the overtime hours available salting and sanding roads it became a normal routine to go out with the sanders even on forty degree days if they even suspected an upcoming storm. The vehicle owners in our state have paid a heavy price since.
I bought a 2002 class A MH this spring after looking for two years to find a rust free unit. This MH has never seen a road in the winter and had been stored in a clean dry building from September to May since it was new. It will get the same treatment as long as I have it.
From my experience of fighting rusted vehicles on a daily basis I can tell you, you will never win the battle with rust. Clean, scrub, brush, spray, rub, seal and paint all you want but rust is like a cancer. You will slow its progress some but it will keep coming back.
Cut your losses and move on.
Lynn

FormerBoater · 08-23-2015, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scenic route

Brake fluid is designed to be hygroscopic. Over time, system condensation/moisture that is held in suspension can and will cause internal line degradation as well as in other brake components. The general recommendation is to flush the system with fresh fluid every two or three years.

Just so folks do not get confused....this thread pertains to a DP (air brakes, no brake fluid, air hoses which are rubber and do not rust).

AK_smith · 08-24-2015, 07:45 AM

Hi everyone. Thanks again for the great feedback. I'm going to go ahead and and wire brush it After I scrape it down, I will use an air compressor to blow off any loose flakes, dust etc. I'm still still a bit confused, after I scrape and blow, do I still need to wash it down and put anything on it before applying the POR or Ospho? Also, is it okay to just paint over the bolts and fasteners? Is there anywhere I should not put the POR or Ospho?

I had a pretty bummed out weekend thinking about what to do and as much as I love the coach (other than the rust...), I decided it's probably best to start looking for a replacement. I keep asking myself though, is it better to stay with the evil you know or move to another coach which may have its own set of ailments. And when I consider the cost of a brand new coach, I think about how many repairs I could make for that same amount of money. It all makes me wonder how many other folks had problem coaches, put a little lipstick on them and sold them off to some other unsuspecting buyer. Oh well, first things first - I'll get the underside coated and go from there.

Thanks again --

Clayobx · 08-25-2015, 06:27 AM

If you have any deep indentations ie: loss of steel, it would be advisable to use the fiberglass two part filler I mentioned. It bonds well. On occasion I've used West two part epoxy with fiberglass micro balloons, small microscopic fiberglass spheres. Use an inexpensive plastic spreader to shape the thick mixture. You may have to laminate the product or it will sag. The West epoxy is a permanent fix! (20 years boat yard owner operator). I then go one more step and clean throughly with denatured alchohol, Ospho, metal primer, then rust preventative enamel or spray undercoater, a rubber based chassis sealer made by Rustoleum (sp).

alpha99 · 08-25-2015, 11:02 AM

This should answer your questions regarding POR15 application :

http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Technica...ion_ep_62.html

HoleInOne · 08-25-2015, 06:57 PM

If the frame is showing a lot of rust trade it. Once the frame starts to weaken doors won't close, leveling will be a challenge etc. Many problems you can't solve. Don't fall in love with these things.