How old are your tires?

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by Unknown Guy

Three questions.

1 would you consider buying used Goodyears that are date coded less than 2 years old? And have 12/32" tread?

2 how do you have your tires balanced? I've contacted 4 different tire companies local to me and only 1 balances and adds lead weights. The rest are using "Equal" balance bead bags.

3 what is the going rate for tire changes. It seems like everyone is in the $50-75 range for mount/balance/disposal

My coach is a 2000 (she just had her birthday on Monday 4/13) and the tires are original Michelins form mid 99, only 27,000 miles with no cracking. Obviously that's why all 6 tires need replaced and I'm considering used. I figure get 6 newer used tires and then upgrade 2 new tires a year for the first 3 years.


2000 Gulf Stream Conquest, first MH (bought 8/14)

1. NO!
2. Lead stick on weights last time I had any balanced.
3. Seems high, especially since they will probably turn around and sell the tires to a farmer for farm (off road) use only.

Better buy a lottery ticket with that luck! On our 2002 MH I replaced the tires after 8 years.
The CC has the OEM tires on it and I'm already looking to replace all 8 of them. Not cheap for 4 - 365/70's nor the drivers with 4 - 315/80's. Odd combination but it came from CC that way. The tires look great as I think the previous owner kept it inside when not in use.

[TwelveVolt]

Originally Posted by Sundancer268

dealer said he found 6 tires but they were 3 years old and he would not sell them to me.

Can he pro-rate the 3 year old tires? It would be a fair deal. You take less out of your pocket and somebody gets old tires out of their inventory.

[keith883]

I just recently bought new tires for my 1994 fleetwood flair
It had the original tires from the factory ( 21 years old )
I didnt drive it until it was time to get tires changed ( could have a blow out anytime )
I've heard of tires lasting 10 years but not 21
Now I have new toyo m120z r819.5

[Sundancer268]

Originally Posted by TwelveVolt

Can he pro-rate the 3 year old tires? It would be a fair deal. You take less out of your pocket and somebody gets old tires out of their inventory.

I do not want the old tires, I will pay the full price. If I was not traveling out of state on this vacation, I would not fret it, I never exceed 60 MPH and that is only on the Interstate, I monitor my TST for any abnormal Temps & Pressures so I will just change them when I return if they do not come in before I leave. I have driven on a lot older tires than this (24 Years) on my Old Scout II and had no problems. I have also had Months old tires fail on the Same Scout, (Armstrongs). They tried to blame me, I caught the third one before it blew, it had a bulge in the side wall about the size of a large softball. I did not receive any argument on that tire, all three failures were on different positions two front & Left rear. The fourth failed in the spare tire carrier with in the next six months. I feel I will be all right, I just have to be vigilant and pull over at any thing that does not feel normal.

[charliej]

Originally Posted by twinkles2

Need 4 G670 Goodyear 275/70 R22.5 for 2004 Diplomat. The one on it are 8 years old. Camping World wants $3550. installed. Even with $40. mail in rebate from Goodyear, I would like to find a better price. Live in Carson City area. Any help?

Below is a link to all the Wingfoot commercial tire centers. I got my GY tires at one in my area. They were very helpful.

Good luck.


https://www.wingfootct.com/locations/location.asp

[jerichorick]

I went to Freightliner in Gaffney, SC not long after we had moved into our coach. One of the items on my list was weighing. I thought we were heavy but the tech assured me we were okay. As I have been reading this thread I began to wonder. Am I really safe? Are my weights as they should be? Are my tires rated for the load I was weighted at?

My weight at that time was 33560. According to Itasca my GVWR is 32350! I didn't look for myself. I simply believed the factory tech.

Breaking this down:
LF = 6280
RF = 6080
LR = 10020
RR = 11180
Total = 33560
I was 1210 overweight. Or was I? Now add another 400+ for DW, dog and me that makes it 1600+ over weight!

What are my tires rated at? I have the XZE2 275/80R22.5 Michelin's on my coach. Single rating at 110psi is 6175 and duel is 5675 @ 110psi (max). The rear is okay for tire rating at 11350 per wheel set. But the left front is 105 # over BEFORE I sit in the drivers seat and the right front goes over its limit when DW and dog get on board! (Here is a link to this tire: Tire Selector | Michelin RV Tires)

What are my options? We have shed some coach weight since we got it, so step one is to get weighted again (ASAP). Step 2 is to change front tires.

I am looking at the Michelin XZA2 Energy as a possible tire. The 275/70R22.5 has a 545 revolution per mile rating vs the 517 rev/mi but the load rating is much better. I will have to get my OD calibrated if I use these on the rear when I change them. (Tire Selector | Michelin RV Tires)

Bottom line in my research is do your own homework before you buy tires. Going to a tire shop and getting their recommendation or pick of the day may not be the wisest thing to do. Had I not spent hours roaming tire sites looking at the tires others in the thread have recommended, then taking the time to LOOK at my specific known data, I most likely would have chosen wrongly. Buying a brand is NOT all you need confidence in. Buying the correct specification for your particular need is utmost important.

Thanks to all who have been participating in this discussion. You provoked me into thinking this topic outside of my feelings and likes.

Happy trails and safety getting there.

Rick Y

[Steve Ownby]

Originally Posted by jerichorick

I went to Freightliner in Gaffney, SC not long after we had moved into our coach. One of the items on my list was weighing. I thought we were heavy but the tech assured me we were okay. As I have been reading this thread I began to wonder. Am I really safe? Are my weights as they should be? Are my tires rated for the load I was weighted at?

My weight at that time was 33560. According to Itasca my GVWR is 32350! I didn't look for myself. I simply believed the factory tech.

Breaking this down:
LF = 6280
RF = 6080
LR = 10020
RR = 11180
Total = 33560
I was 1210 overweight. Or was I? Now add another 400+ for DW, dog and me that makes it 1600+ over weight!

What are my tires rated at? I have the XZE2 275/80R22.5 Michelin's on my coach. Single rating at 110psi is 6175 and duel is 5675 @ 110psi (max). The rear is okay for tire rating at 11350 per wheel set. But the left front is 105 # over BEFORE I sit in the drivers seat and the right front goes over its limit when DW and dog get on board! (Here is a link to this tire: Tire Selector | Michelin RV Tires)

What are my options? We have shed some coach weight since we got it, so step one is to get weighted again (ASAP). Step 2 is to change front tires.

I am looking at the Michelin XZA2 Energy as a possible tire. The 275/70R22.5 has a 545 revolution per mile rating vs the 517 rev/mi but the load rating is much better. I will have to get my OD calibrated if I use these on the rear when I change them. (Tire Selector | Michelin RV Tires)

Bottom line in my research is do your own homework before you buy tires. Going to a tire shop and getting their recommendation or pick of the day may not be the wisest thing to do. Had I not spent hours roaming tire sites looking at the tires others in the thread have recommended, then taking the time to LOOK at my specific known data, I most likely would have chosen wrongly. Buying a brand is NOT all you need confidence in. Buying the correct specification for your particular need is utmost important.

Thanks to all who have been participating in this discussion. You provoked me into thinking this topic outside of my feelings and likes.

Happy trails and safety getting there.

Rick Y

Why don't you look at your current tires and their clearance in the wheel wells. There is probably room for 295/80R22.5. Those tire will give you some headroom in the weight department.


Steve Ownby
Full time since '07

[BigBadDad]

jerichorick your numbers show you are in a load range G tire. You should be in a load range H tire and michelin makes a 275/80/22.5 Load range H and several others do also such as goodyear, continental, bridgestone, etc.

[TwelveVolt]

Originally Posted by jerichorick

I was 1210 overweight. Or was I? Now add another 400+ for DW, dog and me that makes it 1600+ over weight!

Remember to note the tank levels at the time of weighing and who was sitting where. With 100 gallon tanks, you have 833 lb water and 710 lb diesel.

Are you going to load up with 700+ lb of food, drink, condiments etc. for a trip, or buy as you go?

Looks like you may have to leave the rock collection at home and put the dog on a diet.

Has anyone here been inspected for weight in a non-commercial vehicle?

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by TwelveVolt

Remember to note the tank levels at the time of weighing and who was sitting where. With 100 gallon tanks, you have 833 lb water and 710 lb diesel.

Are you going to load up with 700+ lb of food, drink, condiments etc. for a trip, or buy as you go?

Looks like you may have to leave the rock collection at home and put the dog on a diet.

Has anyone here been inspected for weight in a non-commercial vehicle?

Great point that many overlook. We went in with the idea of getting the coach weight as loaded and ready to hit the road. The weights are accurate. 2/3 water, full propane and fuel.

Being a full-timer and a volunteer, I have many tools and DW has 4 sewing machines for different purposes. Many of the tools are becoming unnecessary or redundant in many cases. These will be shedded soon. As for the dog? I think his master could loose the pounds too.

Happy trails,
Rick Y

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by BigBadDad

jerichorick your numbers show you are in a load range G tire. You should be in a load range H tire and michelin makes a 275/80/22.5 Load range H and several others do also such as goodyear, continental, bridgestone, etc.

Your correct. This is what the coach came with.

What I have been seeing in the manufactures specs is that not all tires are alike. The model of the tire is just as important as the size and load rating. I feel it is a good idea to use tires that are commonly available, are the same for all wheels for rotation, and meet the needs of the coach. That is why all of your suggestions are great but, at the same time, must be challenged with reason and education. The tire that survives the tests indicated are the ones to go with. I have no idea if the tires I have indicated are even available. So, options are still open.

I started this topic for two reasons: me and YOU. Are you certain you 40U (or any other model) is equipped correctly where the rubber meets the road?

Rick Y

[jerichorick]

Originally Posted by Steve Ownby

Why don't you look at your current tires and their clearance in the wheel wells. There is probably room for 295/80R22.5. Those tire will give you some headroom in the weight department.


Steve Ownby
Full time since '07

Your observations are correct, Steve. The rear tires are tight by the fiberglass but I don't think the suspension would collapse that far when traveling. I am not planning to replace the rear tires at this time. That will be a big hit in the $ bucket when I do. The smaller size and increased load range might correct my slow reading speedometer and give me the safety headroom I need. Shedding cargo is the best thing I can do in any case.

Rick Y

[Steve Ownby]

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Your observations are correct, Steve. The rear tires are tight by the fiberglass but I don't think the suspension would collapse that far when traveling. I am not planning to replace the rear tires at this time. That will be a big hit in the $ bucket when I do. The smaller size and increased load range might correct my slow reading speedometer and give me the safety headroom I need. Shedding cargo is the best thing I can do in any case.

Rick Y

Your steer axle is your biggest tire capacity issue. You could use the 295/80s on the steer axle and stay with what you have on the drive axle. Could also go with a smaller diameter on the drive to correct the speedo although Most speedos have a process to correct the revs per mile. I've been using 315s on the steer and 295s on the drive for about 6 years now. No issues.


Steve Ownby
Full time since '07

[TwelveVolt]

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Being a full-timer and a volunteer, I have many tools and DW has 4 sewing machines for different purposes. Many of the tools are becoming unnecessary or redundant in many cases. These will be shedded soon. As for the dog? I think his master could loose the pounds too.

Being new to RVing ourselves, we have adopted a policy of reviewing the contents of all compartments each year to ask if we have used this item in the past year and could we live without it. Could we buy, borrow or rent one if needed?

A friend was visiting the coach and wondered why we were hauling this ceramic tile all over the continent.