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Old 02-19-2012, 09:31 AM   #1
Phil Palmer's Avatar
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 61
How to change antifreeze?

This is My first time on this, and I am looking forward to useing it often.
We are getting ready to go to Bike week in Daytona, and I am wanting to change the antifreeze in Our 2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor with the radiator in the back.
I can't find any way to put it back in the cummings motor ISC 330 with the radiator in the back.
I know I am not the only one to have this problem.
The book that came with the motorhome shows I have a antifreeze filter on the side of the motor next to the oil filter, but when I changed the oil and filter, I didn't find a filter there.
If any person out there has had the same problem, please help Me.


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Old 02-20-2012, 07:57 AM   #2
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You will love this site.
Scroll down to "forum jump". Find your coach manufacture or chassis manufacture, for more detailed ideas. It will help to find owners of the same coach as your.

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Old 02-20-2012, 03:54 PM   #3
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Hi Phil Palmer,
I have the same engine as you. Also have the rear radiator. Mine could be different, but I add coolant via the expansion tank. When draining coolant, make sure the cap on the expansion tank is off.
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:07 PM   #4
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Here's an article written by Brett Wolf for the CAT owners club:

I just changed out my coolant to Caterpillar ELC and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience. To my knowledge no chassis/coach maker is using ELC—so all are “low silicate coolant for diesels” with included or added SCA. Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer’s instructions (usually every 3 years). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use (we check the SCA concentration in all coaches at Cat RV Club Rallies). When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to Caterpillar ELC and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same.

The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech.

Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain cock. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. I catch it in 2 Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so I do not even get them dirty. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free.

Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes at regular temp. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the color is clear.

At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to “Last rinse”. For older systems or for switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner such as Cat Fast Acting Cooling System Cleaner 4C4611. Follow directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8 to ” lines going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until what comes out is clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water.

If your hoses are over 3-4 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s). Last Rinse is with distilled water. At $.62/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water.

Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. My cooling system is 18 gallons, so I added 9 gallons of Caterpillar ELC CONCENTRATE (119-5150) (plus one for overflow container). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture.

This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator. On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed). On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need. If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center. Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan
blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter.

Check belts while you are in there.

I think the price on distilled water has gone up though!
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
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Old 02-21-2012, 06:38 AM   #5
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I have a CAT motor with rear radiator. There's a tag with filling instructions attached to the radiator support. Here's a pic of the of the tag.

2001.5 Fleetwood Discovery 37U 330HP Cat
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Old 02-21-2012, 07:29 PM   #6
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The coolant filter isn't actually a filter, though it looks like one. It actually is a time release feeder for the SCA additives needed to prevent cavitation in the engine. Not all cooling systems have them, and those that do may not have them in the same place. The location varies according to the chassis maker (Roadmaster, in your case). Coaches with a Freightliner or Spartan chassis will have filters in differnt places.
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:18 PM   #7
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On a Cummins it is in fact a filter and can have the DCA in it. DCA is the correct term for the SCA additive for Cummins. The filter cleans the casting sand out of the coolant that comes out of the cavities in the block.
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
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Old 02-25-2012, 06:16 PM   #8
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For the job, great or small, do it right or not at all. We're living in ours so rather than finding a place to go do it and do it right ourselves I find it is faster, easier, and more cost effective for us that I have Cummings do it. I have found that things like this develop a life of their own especially if you are not familiar with all the components, do not have all the right tools, and do not have a good work space to do it. Take it to Cummings or a good reliable Diesel Mechanical shop.

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