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Old 07-10-2012, 07:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfer View Post
This is the best way to find out the correct tire pressure on any vehicle. You can take two similar coaches and load them closely and they will be different. Here is how to do it. Get yourself a piece of sidewalk chalk. Prefered white. draw a line across all 4 treads on each tire be setting on a flat smooth surface like a flat parking lot. drive forward or reverse for 3 or 4 revolutions of the tire and look at the wear pattern on the chalk mark. If it is wearing off in the center you need to let some air out and repeat until you get it to wear evenly across the tread. Same goes for wear to the outsides instead of the center. Your tires will get the best mileage possible and handle better than you ever dreamed. Lesson from an old retired truck driver.
IMHO and rookie opinion this is the first thing I have seen that makes sense. This has been puzzling for the last month since i bought a MH.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:30 AM   #16
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I used to do that back in the 70s. It works.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:50 AM   #17
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Use a CAT Scale

Quote:
Originally Posted by TimLoon View Post
Didn't think about usng the scale at the dump. Only problem is most emplyees there are really nice and there is one really cranky guy. Guess who normally operates the scale?
I finally figured out how to get the weight of "4 corners" at any CAT scale. A CAT scale has 3 pads; Steer axle, Drive axle & Trailer axle. Here is how you do it:

(This is for weighing a NON-tag rig and NOT weighing a toad.)

Go see the "weighmaster" at the scale and explain what you are about to do. I have found if you do that they will work with you, be able to watch for you on the second trip around (I'll explain that later.) and charge you with a weigh and a re-weigh. Unless they have seen this before they may even think that it won't work. IT DOES.

1. Drive onto the scale and place front wheels on the farthest pad (Steer) and the rear (Drive) wheels on the middle pad. This will put you at the speaker panel where you hit the CALL button to get weighed. Wait for them to confirm it is done.

2. Next, you MUST leave the scale pads because the CAT system will not do a second weight until it get's cleared. Depending on how busy they are you will either need to drive through the arch that protects the scale or you might be able to back up until all wheels are off the scale. I generally go around the block.

3. When you re-enter the scale you straddle the left or right side of the scale so that either the left or right side wheels (your choice based on any obstructions near the scale) of your rig is directly over the center of the scale. You then make sure your front wheels are now on the DRIVE pad and the rear wheels are on the TRAILER pad. Depending on how well you coordinated it and how noisy it is, you might be able to hear them through the speaker that it is done. Once it is done you may need to back up a short distance to get your rig to line up properly to get through the arch that protects the scale.

4. Go to the weighmaster and get 2 weight slips. Generally this will cost you about $10-$13. My last one cost $10.50 which was $9.50 for the first weigh and $1.00 for the re-weigh.

Here is what I got on my last weighing

Ticket #1

STEER AXLE (TOTAL) - 7680
DRIVE AXLE (TOTAL) - 15120
TRAILER AXEL (TOTAL) - 00
GROSS WEIGHT (TOTAL) - 22800

Ticket #2 (MY RIGHT SIDE WHEELS ON SCALE)

STEER AXLE - 00
DRIVE AXLE - 3800 - (Steer axle now)
TRAILER AXLE - 7780 - (Drive axle now)
GROSS WEIGHT - 11580 - (right side weight)

Now it is simple math

7680 (full steer) - 3800 (right side steer) = 3880 left steer wheel
15120 (full drive) - 7780 (right side drive) = 7340 left drive wheel

So my highest corners:

left Steer - 3880 (only a 80 difference! Nice L/R balance)
Right Drive - 7780 (right side 440 heavier so I can use that info to re-balance.)

NOTE 1: I'm no engineer and I have to assume that there will be slight variations caused by how well you center up the wheels on the pad during the second weighing and also whether the placement of the "off scale" wheels is exactly level or not. As anal as I am, I think that following these procedures is as good as you can get without having access to mobile scales placed under all 4 wheel sets at the same time. If you follow the +5 PSI rule of thumb, you should never have an under inflated tire based on your weight charts for your tires.

NOTE 2: I had a weighing the previous day where the drive axle was left side 7720 & right side 7780. I emptied about 300-400 lbs of grey & black tank holding. I suspect that those holding tanks are nearer to the left side of my rig explaining the 440 imbalance towards the right. Moving fresh water to holding tanks might also re-balance towards the left. I need to look at my coach diagram to confirm my suspicions that but it makes sense.

BTW...you WILL get some strange looks by any truckers in the area when you do the second weighing. Kinda the "WTH!?" (dumb RVer) look. LOL
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:18 AM   #18
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Danny's Family Truck Wash is $7.00 per weigh with 1 free re-weigh, and they wash motor homes. From what I have heard, they do a good job and even do the roof. They do not use power sprayers. You can find Danny's at Pilot/FJ travel centers.

Pilot charges $9.00 per weigh without a free re-weigh.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:39 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed-Sommers View Post
Having different pressures on opposing sides of an axle is, IMHO, an exercise if futility. The differing running weight due to water levels, and cargo would necessitate a constant adjustment of differing pressures.
NEVER run different pressures on the same axle! This is in the major manufacturers tire guides.
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:42 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by jmckinley View Post
(2) The pressure shown on the charts provided by your tire maker and the TRMA is NOT the RECOMMENDED pressure for a given load. The pressure shown is the MINIMUM pressure for that load. It seems like everybody on all the forums gets this wrong.
Not really, I've been posting the actual manufacturers statements for a couple years now. Finally people are beginning to come around and realize what I've been posting is correct.
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:05 AM   #21
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Thanks for all the info, I recently picked up a new to us Class A with the 245/70/19.5 Hankook A11's on it, they are new tires. I had the old coach pretty well figured out and was fortunate enough to drive it for 14 years without a flat (not the same tires). I plan on getting it weighed soon, the dump will weigh axles, however I've heard of an RV repair shop that has wheel scales, so I'll call them. I will call Hankook and get the tire pressure info, Thanks.
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