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Old 08-11-2012, 05:29 PM   #1
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How to fix front door rattle

We have a Pos-A-Loc front door on our class A diesel pusher. It rattles when we drive down the highway - not bad, just enough to be annoying. I notice that there is a slight play in the door when it it is closed. On the strike plate (I think that's what it's called) on the door jam, there is a round pin with a hex head that the latch in the door itself grabs onto (see attached photo). I'm guessing that the hex head on the pin can be turned to loosen the pin so it can be moved. Am I right in that I can slightly loosen that pin and move it inwards to lessen the play in the door? I'm hesitant to try it without checking with someone smarter than me, since if I screw it up I won't be able to close the door. Any suggestions?
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:40 PM   #2
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You are correct, you can adjust the striker. I suggest to make a little pen mark so you know where it was originally mounted and can re-adjust if necessary.
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilieBilly View Post
We have a Pos-A-Loc front door on our class A diesel pusher. It rattles when we drive down the highway - not bad, just enough to be annoying. I notice that there is a slight play in the door when it it is closed. On the strike plate (I think that's what it's called) on the door jam, there is a round pin with a hex head that the latch in the door itself grabs onto (see attached photo). I'm guessing that the hex head on the pin can be turned to loosen the pin so it can be moved. Am I right in that I can slightly loosen that pin and move it inwards to lessen the play in the door? I'm hesitant to try it without checking with someone smarter than me, since if I screw it up I won't be able to close the door. Any suggestions?
You are correct, it is an old typical automotive latch. The whole pin will most likely turn when you turn the hex. Take a sharpie or pencil and draw a circle around the large base diameter and loosen it just enough to move in a little at a time. Tighten and check, repeat go slow, if you have a soft face hammer it is sometimes easier to tap it a little to move it so you don't need to loosen it completely.
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Old 08-11-2012, 05:45 PM   #4
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You are correct, you can adjust the striker. I suggest to make a little pen mark so you know where it was originally mounted and can re-adjust if necessary.

Great minds think alike and apparently at the same time
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:06 PM   #5
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First, thanks to all for the replies.

I loosened the pin but now I can't get it to stay in place when I tighten it and I can't fully tighten it. When I loosened it with a socket and ratchet I had to hit it gently with my hand. It turned more than I wanted to (about 1/8 to 1/4 turn). I can now move the pin by hand. But it will only go up and down. It won't go in (the direction I want it to go). And when I tighten the pin (via the hex head) it moves the pin. I can't get it to stay in one spot when I tighten. Simply turning the socket (or wrench) moves the pin. And there is no way to put a clamp on it to hold it in place. And I can't fully tighten it so that it won't move. I tighten to what feels like a stop (like a nut fully on a bolt) but I can still move the pin up and down. Any more suggestions? What is on the other end of the pin? I'm assuming it is a nut that will fall off if I loosen the pin fully. I don't want to do that because I can't get to the other side of the plate.
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Old 08-13-2012, 05:09 PM   #6
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Door Striker

Try pulling the striker away from the frame while you turn it clockwise with your hand. That should hold the nut in the door against the back of the frame just enough to allow the striker to snug up. Now tighten the striker until you need to strike it with a dead blow hammer or soft mallet to adjust it...once in place snug it down and you should be good to go. Good luck
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Old 08-13-2012, 05:52 PM   #7
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Your setup looks like mine and if so, the adjustment procedure is not like the old simple striker. What we are calling the striker actually floats. Here's the adjustment procedure for mine (Foretravel). Hope it's similar. The link is a pdf file. Hope it works.
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http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?....0;attach=2093
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:04 AM   #8
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Your setup looks like mine and if so, the adjustment procedure is not like the old simple striker. What we are calling the striker actually floats. Here's the adjustment procedure for mine (Foretravel). Hope it's similar. The link is a pdf file. Hope it works.
jor

http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?....0;attach=2093

WillieBilly......
I don't think your is set-up like the PDF, due to your being able to move the striker up and down. I hope you marked the original position as offered earlier. If I was there I would remove the 6 screws that hold the plate in and look at the back side. Adjust it in based on the original marks and reassemble.

If you pull the plate take a picture we all want to learn
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:17 PM   #9
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Our door rattled like you said ,and we have an upper and lower pins. I wrapped a few layers of electrical tape around the pins and no more rattle. The door opens and closes just fine. It lasted a year like that and just the other day I replaced the tape. Hokey maybe, but worked for me.
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Old 08-14-2012, 09:43 PM   #10
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If you have not found the solution, you might want to contact Newmar. I just had my door adjusted and they had to pull the door frame trim off to get to the back side of the catch.

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Old 08-15-2012, 07:40 AM   #11
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If adjusting doesn't work, I put a strip of self stick weatherstrip along the edge of the door. That stopped my door rattle.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:35 PM   #12
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Finally Fixed!

I’m glad to get back to you with good news. With help from PTL Engineering I finally fixed my door so it doesn’t rattle.

The mechanism controlling the placement of the door (in / out, or tight / loose) is behind the stainless steel plate visible in the jamb with the door open. PTL calls it the “Mov-A-Bolt assembly”. It is accessed from inside the coach in the door jamb. I had to remove the trim around my door to see and access it. The attached photo (Series 3000 installation and adjustment instructions 2011 003) is a diagram of the “Mov-A-Bolt” with adjustment instructions, provided by PTL Engineering.

Photo 1 (attached) shows the cover over the “Mov-A-Bolt” in my coach with the door trim loose but still in place. Photo 2 shows the cover with the trim removed. (I also had to remove the stainless steel grab bar at the far right of photo 1.) Removing the cover reveals the “Mov-A-Bolt” assembly itself and the six screws holding it in place with the cover removed. Photo 3 is the “Mov-A-Bolt” assembly. The “bolt” itself is in the lower portion of the assembly. The striker bolt threads into this bolt in the coach. The striker bolt is the hex headed pin that the door latch locks onto when the door is closed. (The striker bolt must be unscrewed before the “Mov-A-Bolt” can be removed.) The star cam is visible in the upper portion of the assembly. Note the small hole in that cam on the right side. Rotating that cam to different positions pulls the door tighter (or loosens it). There are two cams, one on each side of the “Mov-A-Bolt” assembly. In the center (actually it is off center) there is a round pin which holds the two cams in place. I took a drift pin and struck it with a ball peen hammer to remove it. After re-positioning the cams hold them in place with a piece of cellophane tape so they don’t fall out.

I said in one of my earlier posts that when I tightened the striker bolt, it (the bolt itself) moved as I gave it the final ¼ turn with a socket wrench. I tried many ways to hold the bolt in position as I gave that final turn but it always moved. In desperation I tightened the bolt and then tapped the washer that the bolt passes through with my ball peen hammer. After several taps the bolt moved down into position. As we used to say, “if it doesn’t work, try a bigger hammer”.

Thanks to all who responded to my plea for help. If anyone has any questions, I’d be happy to try to answer them.
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Old 10-18-2012, 09:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilieBilly View Post
I’m glad to get back to you with good news. With help from PTL Engineering I finally fixed my door so it doesn’t rattle.

The mechanism controlling the placement of the door (in / out, or tight / loose) is behind the stainless steel plate visible in the jamb with the door open. PTL calls it the “Mov-A-Bolt assembly”. It is accessed from inside the coach in the door jamb. I had to remove the trim around my door to see and access it. The attached photo (Series 3000 installation and adjustment instructions 2011 003) is a diagram of the “Mov-A-Bolt” with adjustment instructions, provided by PTL Engineering.

Photo 1 (attached) shows the cover over the “Mov-A-Bolt” in my coach with the door trim loose but still in place. Photo 2 shows the cover with the trim removed. (I also had to remove the stainless steel grab bar at the far right of photo 1.) Removing the cover reveals the “Mov-A-Bolt” assembly itself and the six screws holding it in place with the cover removed. Photo 3 is the “Mov-A-Bolt” assembly. The “bolt” itself is in the lower portion of the assembly. The striker bolt threads into this bolt in the coach. The striker bolt is the hex headed pin that the door latch locks onto when the door is closed. (The striker bolt must be unscrewed before the “Mov-A-Bolt” can be removed.) The star cam is visible in the upper portion of the assembly. Note the small hole in that cam on the right side. Rotating that cam to different positions pulls the door tighter (or loosens it). There are two cams, one on each side of the “Mov-A-Bolt” assembly. In the center (actually it is off center) there is a round pin which holds the two cams in place. I took a drift pin and struck it with a ball peen hammer to remove it. After re-positioning the cams hold them in place with a piece of cellophane tape so they don’t fall out.

I said in one of my earlier posts that when I tightened the striker bolt, it (the bolt itself) moved as I gave it the final ¼ turn with a socket wrench. I tried many ways to hold the bolt in position as I gave that final turn but it always moved. In desperation I tightened the bolt and then tapped the washer that the bolt passes through with my ball peen hammer. After several taps the bolt moved down into position. As we used to say, “if it doesn’t work, try a bigger hammer”.

Thanks to all who responded to my plea for help. If anyone has any questions, I’d be happy to try to answer them.
My door rattled and I locked the deadbolt when going down the road. No more rattle. Thanks for the adjustment information on the gut of the door.
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Old 10-19-2012, 06:04 AM   #14
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I had the same problem and also could not adjust the striker enough to stop the rattle. My solution was the same as another poster. I had some UHMW film with PSA on one side that I cut to size and wrapped around the striker. Wala.....no more rattle.
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