How to install a mud flap on a class A

[sims5]

That's what I was guessing. Sounds like a good reason not to blame the flap.
#flaplivesmattertoo

[CampDaven]

Originally Posted by sims5

That's what I was guessing. Sounds like a good reason not to blame the flap.
#flaplivesmattertoo

All I know is that my Ad-Flap was 4" up, never moved, but made the Jeep and the back of the coach dirtier, and chipped the Jeep. Now all is well.
Just the flaps behind the tires do it properly

[Mr_D]

Our '01 DSDP didn't have a flap. When we ordered the '02 we spec'd it in. Pretty heavy and hung from chains. On the present rig it's even heavier and hung from heavy duty hinges. It doesn't move much at all.

[Crasher]

Our son just got down here with his new 45' Mountain Aire. When I showed him the paint chips on his painted trailer he said a four lettered word. His rear flap is now in his trailer under the Jeep. No more chips now. His 2015 MA did the same thing as did his 2012 Ellipse. Since I removed the one on our Allegro Bus, after 2500 miles, there are no chips on my newly painted trailer. Other than looks, I see no reason to have a full length flap. As I and others have said, the individual wheel flaps do the job and the wide flap blows the fine sand/stones up into what ever is behind. Before I removed it, there were chips 6' off the ground. I can't swear the the distance off the ground, but it appeared to be all of four inches. Another reason not to have one is the reflection of the sun into the eyes of someone following when I do not have the trailer. My wife has complained about it when she had to follow for a ways.

[mchero]

Originally Posted by Crasher

FWIW, I removed the mud flap that came with our Bus after I spent $800 having the front of our enclosed trailer refinished and repainted due to the hundreds of stone chips. Now after 3000 miles, not a single stone mark. It'll remain out behind the garage where it can't hurt anything.

Crasher is building my case! Not a rock on the tow after removing the flap! Thanks Crasher!

Carol, Juts make sure you use the self tapping stainless steel screws. Those galvanized screws will start rusting! Shoot us some PICS!

Robert

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by Crasher

FWIW, I removed the mud flap that came with our Bus after I spent $800 having the front of our enclosed trailer refinished and repainted due to the hundreds of stone chips. Now after 3000 miles, not a single stone mark. It'll remain out behind the garage where it can't hurt anything.

I agree with Crasher, save your time and money and just put a good set of flaps directly behind the rear wheels. The big full width flap causes more problems than it's worth.
I removed mine two years ago and it's not going back.

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by Craig N Deb

The only reason a rock flap ever causes chips is because guys run them too low. If you run them low they actually will kick up rocks and debris on the highway. You really should run about 4" off the pavement to prevent this from happening.

Yes, I've read all that and tried all that. I had mine at 4" and at 6". After removing altogether, I don't use a rock guard at all and Do Not have stone chips and the toad stays cleaner. Just saying,,,,

[mchero]

Originally Posted by dennis45

I agree with Crasher, save your time and money and just put a good set of flaps directly behind the rear wheels. The big full width flap causes more problems than it's worth.
I removed mine two years ago and it's not going back.

Those flaps do more damage than good IF they are installed incorrectly and about 80% are installed incorrectly!! Too close to the ground and they will pickup road debris and toss them at the toad!

Spoke to a Prevost owner who tows a Hummer, He told me he pulled the flap & after 40K+ miles not ONE rock has chipped his TOAD

[Wayne M]

Not everyone will have my experience, but I had a leveling jack foot pad come off on the passenger side. It hit the Ultra-Guard flap and bent it so much I had to take it off on the road and stow it in the car until I could straighten the angle iron.

Just last month while driving our wonderful interstate system the driver side foot pad came off. The Ultra-Guard kept the foot pad low so that it hit the lower part of the driver's fender. Just got the car out of the shop after insurance claim of $2700+ in repairs to the car. I did not have to pull it off to straighten the angle iron until I got to my location, but there is no doubt it hit the Ultra-Guard.

Did the long Ultra-Guard help? Don't really know for sure. It did help the first time. I guess it all depends on where something is going to hit. I tow a 2013 Lincoln MKX, not an inexpensive car by any means and I just figure that when I get ready to sell it I can have the front painted and blended in with the rest of the car. I'm going to keep the Ultra-Guard.

Anyone running both mud flaps and rock guard flap?

[mchero]

Wayne, What Jack's you have on that rig?

[1ciderdog]

It has been mentioned the full width mud flap should be 3 to 4 inches above the road. Question: Is there a similar measure or recommendation for the rear wheel mud flaps?

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by 1ciderdog

It has been mentioned the full width mud flap should be 3 to 4 inches above the road. Question: Is there a similar measure or recommendation for the rear wheel mud flaps?

They should be set so they do not fold onto the ground when the air suspension is dropped.

[1ciderdog]

Originally Posted by dennis45

They should be set so they do not fold onto the ground when the air suspension is dropped.

Dennis, Thanks, mine don't hit the ground when the air is out but they are very stiff, not very flexible and am thinking maybe they should be more flexible.

[CampDaven]

Originally Posted by 1ciderdog

Dennis, Thanks, mine don't hit the ground when the air is out but they are very stiff, not very flexible and am thinking maybe they should be more flexible.

Nope! Flexible lets stuff thru. Stiff stuff deflects it down.
Well... Thats what mine do, and I dumped the Ad-Flap


Dave and Nola, RV Mutants