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Old 07-30-2014, 05:41 PM   #15
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The doors are a foam core fiberglass skin and the only damage is what you see there is no damage on the inside of the door. To remove a door you have to remove all the doors at once as they all seem to hinge on one common track. That would be about twenty ft or so. When I first bought it I thought I would just remove the damaged doors and repair or have just the ones that need repair fixed.
Taking it to a body shop is really not an option as they would charge far too much and you can only put so much into an older unit.
Painting is not a problem as I will be painting the unit myself as I have a lot of experience with that.
The issue is getting gravity on your side. I would grab or make a saw horse and shim the door open and flat. Go from there. You are really only talking a couple of hours worth of work with it open. Most will probably be cure time.

You will want an auxiliary table or cart for tools and stuff. You also want to use a dust mask for sanding. I'd set up a small fan just to keep the dust cloud moving away.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:57 PM   #16
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I would like to thank all of you for replying to my question. You people are great. I will print this off and make up a material list and I hope to start in the near future.
I will use the West System I have used it before.
When I have worked with fiberglass in the past, after all was complete (cured dried and sanded) I would use regular body shop materials to fill pin holes etc. I will be painting the lower part with a plastic 2 part paint called ENDURA.
Once again thanks a million for the suggestions that I will be following.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:01 PM   #17
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Photos at each step, please.


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Old 07-30-2014, 09:03 PM   #18
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I can't tell from your photos what the hinge looks like, but here is a link to a thread about compartment door removal that might help.

Compartment door removal
Yep that is definitly how my doors come off. Not pretty at all. But doable with some pain. I will do this only if I have to.
Thanks for the link
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:06 PM   #19
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Photos at each step, please.


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Once I get into it I will post photos of my progress. It may not be for a while as I promised the DW to finish a couple of things I started. But I will make sure I detail each step.
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:20 PM   #20
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Once I get into it I will post photos of my progress. It may not be for a while as I promised the DW to finish a couple of things I started. But I will make sure I detail each step.

Cool beans. Photos will help others that may be having similar problems.


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Old 07-30-2014, 10:47 PM   #21
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I wouldn't be too hard on the Previous Owner.

I have struggled with the same problem with my basement doors. After every rain, I open the basement doors, and water pours out of them. I have caulked the door handles, replaced the weatherstripping around the doors. No luck.

I know that if it rains, and then it freezes, that there will be ice in the doors.

Poor design, designed by engineers who live in the south where it never rains, and it never freezes.

On my coach, the only good thing is the doors are heavy aluminum, not fiberglass.

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Old 08-01-2014, 06:30 PM   #22
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I wouldn't be too hard on the Previous Owner.

I have struggled with the same problem with my basement doors. After every rain, I open the basement doors, and water pours out of them. I have caulked the door handles, replaced the weatherstripping around the doors. No luck.

I know that if it rains, and then it freezes, that there will be ice in the doors.

Poor design, designed by engineers who live in the south where it never rains, and it never freezes.

On my coach, the only good thing is the doors are heavy aluminum, not fiberglass.

Jim
Where in the south do you find no rain?
Sorry to hear you have such water problems. At least I have fixed mine,just have to repair a little cosmetic damage.
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:31 PM   #23
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How would you Repair This?

Completely different idea: cover each bay door along the bottom with a 4 to 6 inch wide band of polished aluminum tread plate. Bolt each one on with stainless steel carriage bolts all the way through the door. Back up with very large washers or make your own from tread plate scrap.

The finished look of your RV may be sort of polished industrial. Of course you have to do all doors. Is there a metals salvage yard in your area? The one near me has tons of factory seconds of all thicknesses, and styles of polished tread plate. They will even cut any purchases to spec sizes on their giant metal shear table.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:18 PM   #24
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Great idea. It would fit with the color scheme of his MH as well.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:40 PM   #25
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I would replace all the door outer panels with aluminum.Yours are fiberglass. They are about the thickness of the back of a writing tablet back board. Take out the panel, measure the thickness with a micrometer, and order aluminum of the same thickness. Make drain holes in the bottom rail and keep them clear.
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