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09-26-2016, 05:34 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 54
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HWH 210 Leveling System Problem
It use to be the levelers some time worked, but not any more. HWH 210 serieseries
I checked both the barrel fuse in the control panel and the 10 amp fuse at the pump motor, clean the contact plate under the joystick and nothing. While checking the fuse I did notice the solenoid looked rusted.
Is there a way to test this? Or what else do I need to look at?
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09-26-2016, 05:39 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 944
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Have you checked the on/off switch? My switch has started to act up. Have to turn it off and back on a couple of times.
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09-26-2016, 05:56 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,232
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I would remove the cover panel and clean underneath. The switches for the cover panel connect to the bottom controller via 3 springs. Make sure they are clean. Clean those rusted connections too and check all fuses.
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09-26-2016, 06:17 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Alberta
Posts: 598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aintnothin
It use to be the levelers some time worked, but not any more. HWH 210 serieseries
I checked both the barrel fuse in the control panel and the 10 amp fuse at the pump motor, clean the contact plate under the joystick and nothing. While checking the fuse I did notice the solenoid looked rusted.
Is there a way to test this? Or what else do I need to look at?
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Put a volt meter on the pump positive connection and the other to chassis ground. You should have 12V when the pump is activated. If you do have 12V at the pump and it is not running then it is the pump. If you don't have 12V then it becomes a wiring problem.
2009 Safari Cheetah 40'
350 HP Cat
2014 Ford Focus
Air Force One
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09-26-2016, 06:20 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 54
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I have checked the panel switch w/springs, doesn't look like a very good idea Imo, but lights come on when I flip it, stay on when I work the joystick. With the way it's built, hard to test. Going to clean the rust off the solenoid tomorrow when I pull it off.
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09-26-2016, 09:09 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 30,971
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HWH says it takes a fully-charged battery to operate their system, or have the engine running. Their FAQ page contains a lot of helpful advice.
I'm guessing a poor/missing ground. Then again, my (different) HWH system has 3 fuses, one under the main control panel, one in the main fuse panel on the firewall, and an inline 40A fuse near the pump motor.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD , ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG 11B5MX,Infantry retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA. " My fellow Americans, ask not what your country can do for you, ask what you can do for your country. John F. Kennedy
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09-27-2016, 11:04 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Commercial Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: behind the steering wheel
Posts: 2,576
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download a service manual. it will point out the places to check for power.
i would check the relay to see if 12 volts is going thru to the motor. it looks like it could use a good cleaning. maybe take a battery jumper cable and go from the coach frame to the pump body to check the ground. i always have the engine running with a joystick system. it takes about 105 to 125 amps to run the motor
up to speed.
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09-27-2016, 11:20 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 31,495
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Another member with the " joy stick " control found his , mount box ,under the joy stick panel was broken and flexing away instead of making contact when the sticks were moved.
I'll see if I can link that post, to yours.
Why no fuse in the fuse holder? second picture.
__________________
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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09-27-2016, 01:39 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 54
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AZpete, I do have the service manual, but on having the engine running, the manual said to turn the key to the on position but will try with the engine running and check the grounding.
Skip426, I removed the fuse and took the pic before installing the new one. I had the panel off and cleaned inside up and everything looked good. Here's a pic of the box under the coach.
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09-27-2016, 02:21 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 54
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AZpete, put the jumper cable on like you mentioned with engine running and it worked! So I shut the engine off and tried it, again it worked! I'll pull the solenoid and clean it real good and add a ground wire from the pump body to the frame. I seen on one of your post that you work for HWH, do you know if the on/off toggle switch with those springs is available? And also the contact plate under the joystick stick? When I had that off and cleaned it, some of the material is wearing off at the 4 points where the joystick makes contact.
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09-28-2016, 10:40 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Commercial Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: behind the steering wheel
Posts: 2,576
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good to hear its working.
that switch is available from hwh. the whole plate is RAP90316. the switch is RAP90315.
it is an on/off switch. its the same as a 12 volt light switch, or any other rocker switch, that size. if you want an absolute fit,you can order it from hwm, or stuarts in elkhart in.
or in a pinch, winnebago stores, auto parts stores, frys electronics.
the plating on the ring contact under the joystick is wearing off. that wont hurt, it looks like copper underneath. new ones are available, but a real pain to replace. in that case, its better to just have the control rebuilt, requesting that part be replaced.
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09-28-2016, 04:58 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 944
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I assume you have the parking brake set.
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