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Old 09-21-2013, 06:12 AM   #1
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 55
hwh hydraulic jacks not retracting fully

need advice
one jack does not retract fully
am i safe in using t handle on valve on resevoir to try and retract jack


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Old 09-21-2013, 06:40 AM   #2
brookra1's Avatar
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Location: Port Huron,Mi
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Yes, all the t-handle does is open the solenoid manually. Sounds like maybe the valve is going bad. If it does not retract manually then one of the o-rings inside the jack might have turned and the jack will have to be replaced.

Rick & Alyce
04 40B Mandalay 350 Cat
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:11 AM   #3
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Location: Central Florida
Posts: 524
There are a couple of things you can try before replacing the jack or jacks.
First, extend the jacks. Get a can of WD-40 and aim the spray up inside toward where the jack goes back into the tube, the bottom seal is there. Take a small piece of something not metal or sharp and a piece of paper towel and clean the area inside the tube that the jack goes back into. You may be surprised as to how much dirt and junk comes out. Don't be afraid to use a lot of WD-40, or if you have an oil squirt can use ATF which is better yet, because that is basically what HWH uses in their system. ATF is red and HWH fluid is clear. After spraying the jacks, wipe them down with paper towels, retract them and you may have to help them up. Use a 2x4 and give them a push. Once up, extend them again and do the WD-40 or ATF again. This will give them a good cleaning and may save you from having to replace a jack. Also, you may need new springs, and they are fairly easy to change. Just do a search on this site and the procedure will come up.
The last time I checked with HWH a new jack was around $480.00, springs were $40.00, and for them to rebuild your jack was around $280.00, plus shipping is on you. If yours needs re-built check with a local hydraulic shop, I had one rebuilt and it was $100.00 as a local shop.
Good luck!
R & E
No RV at the moment
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:26 AM   #4
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All good advice above. Also if you are able, go right to the HWH factory in Moscow Iowa where they really treat you good.
06 TS-42-DS04
1040 watts of solar
2014 Jeep Rubicon
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Old 09-22-2013, 03:38 AM   #5
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thanks will try
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:58 AM   #6
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How old is your coach? It could be that your springs need replacing. I replaced my front ones and it really made a difference.
06' Itasca Meridian 36g with CAT 350
2011 Jeep Wrangler 4-door
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:11 AM   #7
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Here is a pdf file on retraction times and spring identification.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf HWH jack & spring info.pdf (8.6 KB, 125 views)
99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:46 PM   #8
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That problem seems to go with the HWH hydraulic system. You have been give some good advice on springs, rebuilding or replacing, solenoids and WD40 treatment. Personally I have had HWD rebuild cylinders (you often don't get your own back), I have tried the WD40 route (the current recommendation by HWD) and occasionally I use my big stick and a fulcrum to push a stubborn jack in the last 3 inches to get on the road in a hurry. I had one that wouldn't go back even with a floor jack, I had to remove it and cap the hose while it was in for a rebuild. I even had a bent cylinder on one.
Ole and Anne Anderson, Highland, Michigan
'02 Adventurer 32V, Ford F-53, ours since 4/08,Goodyears, Konis, SeeLevel, CHF
'84 CJ-7 , 5.3 Chevy, 3" lift, 33's, Detroit Locker, Fiberglas tub, winch, hi-lift
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:55 PM   #9
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Hope the cleaning works. Did it all to no avail. New springs and new jacks in rear. I now use wood under jacks when on my trips so I do not have to extend them too far. I have heard that if coach moves when jacks are fully extended, it is very easy to put a slight bend in the ram making it tough if not impossible to retract. I think they could have been a thicker ram than what comes on my 35 footer. Good luck.
Steve and Sheri with Archie (and Hiro, R.I.P.)
2000 Winnebago 35U, Ford F53/6.8l V10
F150 Ford and Vintage Aspencade.
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Old 09-22-2013, 02:24 PM   #10
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Location: central Fl
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You don't have the year or make RV (in your profile) so not sure of the age of your unit. On my 99 Itasca I finally got tired of using a shovel or 2x4 so I bit the bullet last October. I removed my 2 Front (9k jacks) & Rear 12k jack) and shipped them to HWH. I had to pay shipping to them & the refurb of my jacks totaled $556. They also were pretty quick returning them.
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:09 AM   #11
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1996 newmar kountry star
i will try cleaning jacks & go from there
appreciate all help

thanks dave
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:37 PM   #12
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check the springs first. if you have the original springs, they will have squared off ends. the new springs have tapered ends. they are much stronger. if you install a new cylinder, replace the springs as well. i always recommend new springs, unless they are very clean, and the new style. if they are rusty, and grimey, soak them in a large pan full of coca cola. that dissolves the rust and grime. wire brush, repaint and reinstall. the key is if you can push the old cylinder all the way up by hand. if you can, its the springs.
the one thing about having hwh rebuild the cylinder is that you get a one year parts and labor warranty. you get nothing from a local shop. not saying they cant do the job right, just no warranty.
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Old 09-23-2013, 02:50 PM   #13
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I had the same problem, I replaced the retract springs on all four jacks and they retarct nicely now.

2002 KSDP
Joplin, MO
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