Community Forums

patncris · 05-26-2019, 01:03 PM

Both rear jacks on my 2010 Allegro Bus actually have a problem, but the PS jack will now not retract about 90% of the time. The DS jack is also intermittent, but responds to prying efforts to get it up most times.
I had HWH come out to the coach at the March '19 FMCA Rally. The tech gave special attention to the worst jack, the PS one - he had me raise the rear wheels right off the ground, then liberally sprayed the piston with BoeShield T-9, then cleaned the swipe seal just up out of sight inside the jack cylinder. He pulled quite a bit of gunk out of there, wiped it all away, then again liberally doused the piston with T-9. He repeated this process with all four jacks, then had me raise the coach full up, then dump to level. It worked perfectly, and more quickly than I had ever seen. (The Bus is new to us - only six months or so...during which the rear jacks were sticking in the down position consistently)
After camping with friends in the TN Mountains last week, we had a problem getting the really sticky one, the PS, to retract. Finally succeeded with a 2x4 rocking on a 4x4 fulcrum, but it took a while.
On the way home, just south of Rome, GA, on a busy divided 4 lane, our "Jacks Down" alarm illuminated on the dash, and glancing at the Levelling Panel, I saw it was the darned PS Rear Jack. I had to respect it, of course, so I put on the Flashers, slowed to about 25mph, and selected a wide spot on a solid shoulder to stop and investigate. Sure enough, the PS Jack had dropped about 5 inches.
I am confused about this - there are two big honkin' springs connected to that thing, which, with hydraulic pressure removed, should hold that all the way up forever! On the advice of other posters on this forum, I had left the panel in the "Auto Store" position ( although I was dubious, because of the aforementioned big honkin' springs) It took me 30 minutes, and about 300 lb of force, to get it
to retract enough to turn off the alarm.
So, after the preamble, has anyone experienced this sequence of malfunctions, and discovered a system problem in the solenoid valves or shuttle valve that I can remedy here at home? Or in your collective experience, is this pointing to the piston seals at the top of the pistons being buggered up, requiring them to be repacked? And in this worst case scenario, how do I get the pistons out, to ship to HWH for rebuilding? Is this something I can do myself, or is it a job best left to an expensive pro?
Looking forward to your replies. Sorry if I bored you all with too many details!

ByeTheWay · 05-26-2019, 01:12 PM

Make sure your fluid is to the proper level. I believe fluid should be checked with the Jacks fully retracted. Many of the older rigs had to change their HWH springs to stiffer ones, which helps a lot. I replaced one Jack which I ordered from HWH. I still carry a 6' 2x4 which I took have used prior to my Jack replacement.

vsheetz · 05-26-2019, 01:38 PM

Ensuring the jack cylinders are clean is paramount. You can also extend them, spray with WD40, then retract - likely they will then retract all the way. If a time comes that a jack is still is balky or requires frequent cleaning, they need to be replaced. Our rear jacks reached this point on our 2011 phaeton. Had them replaced at HWH factory in Iowa two years ago. Problem solved.

rver98 · 05-26-2019, 01:47 PM

I would not use WD40. This product actually collects dirt when applied. Use a silicone base spray. I've also heard of some using transmission fluid to lubricate the cylinder. I carry a 1x6 and a 6x6 and use it as a fulcrum to assist with raising my jacks when they will not raise all the way.

Good luck

Spk64 · 05-26-2019, 01:51 PM

The WD40 is used to clean the shafts, that is what HWH recommends. Spray shafts then wipe them down is the procedure HWH states. I have been doing this for the past 5 years and no problems. Shafts really do not need lubrication. They just need to be clean. Some sprays will leave a residue that will gum up the seals. Then you will have slow retraction.

Edit: If cleaning does not help you may have a bent shaft. Older coaches had issues with weak springs also.

vsheetz · 05-26-2019, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spk64

The WD40 is used to clean the shafts, that is what HWH recommends. Spray shafts then wipe them down is the procedure HWH states. I have been doing this for the past 5 years and no problems. Shafts really do not need lubrication. They just need to be clean. Some sprays will leave a residue that will gum up the seals. Then you will have slow retraction.

Edit: If cleaning does not help you may have a bent shaft. Older coaches had issues with weak springs also.

Yep.

patncris · 05-26-2019, 03:35 PM

Thanks for your replies, folks. At that FMCA rally, I met and spoke with the founder of HWH, Paul Hanser. Nice fella. He was the one who recommended I use BoeShield T-9, and told me to NEVER use silicon sprays. Who am I to argue with the man who holds the patent, and owns HWH? As Paul Harvey used to say,
"And now, for the REST of the story..."
After his tech got mine working so well, I went back to the exhibition hall to thank him, and he said words to the effect of, "Don't get TOO excited - based on your description of the malfunctions, I expect you'll need to send us your rear jacks for rebuilding soon...."
Hey Vince, what was the process like up there at HWH? Was it fairly streamlined,
or a PITA?

Wranglers · 05-26-2019, 03:42 PM

Use to have this problem with my HR Endeavor. But I now use a silicone spray on the shafts everytime I get ready to put the jacks up if they have been extended for more than a day or if it has rained. Now they retract quickly and everytime.
If any grime or dust gets in the shaft it will cause the problem you describe.

garysfb · 05-27-2019, 03:17 PM

I had a similar problem with a 2003 Alegro Bus. To the best of my memory, I had a long list of fix its for my mechanic, all he did was replace those big honkin' springs!

Martind4 · 05-27-2019, 07:38 PM

Just some quick input, my experience at HWH in Moscow, IA has always been great. They know what they're doing and have the equipment to get it done at a reasonable price. I'd rather drive there than deal with a RV dealer any day.

JFXG · 05-28-2019, 12:13 AM

patncris.... if you have retraction problems that require a six foot lever, that means you’ve got hydraulic valves that are NOT releasing the down fluid pressure; AND you have an inadvertent extension of five inches, which requires positive pressure to push a jack down that far... then I’d say you have some valve and/or solenoid problems that need professional attention.

dcahill48 · 05-28-2019, 12:52 AM

I've got the same problem with one of my jacks and was using the prying method to get it up.I recently started using a small bottle jack from my tow vehicle to get it up which is much easier as long as the jack is up high enough to get the jack under it .

reosw · 06-19-2019, 10:30 AM

Check out the post I just put up a bit ago. Cant make sense of the fact that the auto retract (on the panel) will attempt to store the jacks as expected, but degree of retraction is iffy and the manual T handle valves have no effect.. LR refuses to retract more than about 4" remaining. I have cleaned and lubed all the pistons, but no matter how much force/leverage I use, it wont go past that point. Takes about 30 minutes to get to that point. Im stumped.

dl1035 · 06-21-2019, 03:34 PM

I'm a bottle jack fan too as long as you can fit it underneath the jack stand.

If you have sprayed the jacks with WD-40, which is what HWH recommends, or something similar, and the jacks are still hanging up, you have a more serious problem.