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Old 04-01-2009, 07:54 AM   #29
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Glad it was an easy fix, or at least once you found the problem!! I will have to remember Fuse #8 for future reference!!

I hear Ya on the stretched out under the Hood That Control Board is not the easiest to access. I found crawling up from under was easier than over the top.


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Old 04-01-2009, 11:22 PM   #30
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'...IF such a problem IS that the "spring clips" keep the circuit open, wouldn't the the fuse tester show no continuity??...'
No, not if you are testing the fuse itself. I have an LED fuse tester for blade fuses that touches open metal of the two blades thru holes in top of fuse. If the filament is intact there is continuity to light the LED & fuse shows A-OK. That says nothing of continuity from blades of the fuse to the two ends of the circuit it is supposed to complete. Any connection, like the spring clip holders that receive the blades of the fuse, can get dirty &/or corrode. Even a continuous piece of wire can break internally. The real lesson is that true diagnosis starts with the symptom (e.g. jacks don't work) and then argues that every associated part is suspect till proven good. In an HWH teck vacuum, I'd have been forever getting to suspect the clips if the fuse tested OK. Gotta keep reminidng self- nothing is proved till its proved!!

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Old 04-02-2009, 02:21 AM   #31
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One of the most difficult troubleshooting issues are connections that Dirk has brought up. I have learned over the years not to trust a multimeter on DC or AC circuits completely. I have found proper voltage feeding apparatuses and later find I had a connection or even a fuse that would break down under a load. When I come across this (thank goodness it is not often) I put a known good load to the circuit to determine if it can sustain a load.
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Old 04-02-2009, 05:22 AM   #32
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Another old axiom proven true;

" That which cannot possibly be the problem, will be the problem."
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Old 04-02-2009, 06:27 PM   #33
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Hi Dirk,
Sorry for the lateness of the reply. I'm checking out the CG and surrounding activities for the December back to back rally in the Keys I am hosting. (It's a tough job but somebody must do it.)

I am not inclined to put in the original fuse. The reason is the clear plastic cover that has a grommet holding it onto the housing was a real bear to reinstall. If anybody has a trick to doing this, please post here. I do not want to take the plastic cover off again. Once the plastic cover was on, the yellow level lights were out of alignment. If one has ever done this adjustment you know it is a delicate and very irritating adjustment.

I just don't want to do this all over again.
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:34 AM   #34
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I had a problem with a slide once.The fuse tested OK but the slide would not move. When the fuse blew it coated the inside of the plastic with a metalic coating.It was enough to give a reading but not enough to run anything.

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