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Old 03-06-2019, 03:19 PM   #15
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Congrats on your field repair.
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Old 03-06-2019, 04:35 PM   #16
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I followed Jim's suggestion regarding the ground wire stud. Suggestion to next person doing it: Don't rely on the weld to hold against removing a stubborn nut. Mine broke. Fortunately I was able to get a drill in there and drill through the 3/16" frame and put a nut on the back. I found a 3/8" locking nut in my hardware box, and the weld hadn't buggered up the threads enough so the nut wouldn't start straight. That was a win. 3/16" pilot hole followed by a 3/8" to fit the stud. I used a Dremel with a tiny sanding sleeve to get to bare metal on the frame. Then I greased up the front and back before running the nut down tight.

With the stud now firmly in place I was able to get the nut off. Then the seven ground rings. Again using the Dremel, I cleaned the corrosion off the rings, greased them and ran the old nut down on them completing the ground repair. I tried the jacks and they worked. I am not positive it was a ground issue so I am still going to replace the shuttle valve when it is delivered. Thanks Jim.
I had the same problem - ground stud sheared off. I drilled and replaced with a bolt. (Plus I found a 20A fuse in place where the 40A main fuse should be) Some other things I suggest you do - 1) you should add a ground to the pump motor (as suggested by Paul (azpete - HWH roving tech). I took a 14ga wire, added a small ring on one end and a larger one (to get on the ground stud) on the other. On the end of the motor you should see 2 bolts that run all the way through the motor to the pump. Remove one and slide the bolt through the smaller ring on the ground wire you created. Secure both ends and that will help. 2) Replace the 40A fuse on the main 12V line into the pump system with a self resetting 40A CB (check NAPA - cheap). Use some form of adhesive to stick the CB out of the way but where you can find it.
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Old 03-06-2019, 05:12 PM   #17
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I followed Jim's suggestion regarding the ground wire stud. Suggestion to next person doing it: Don't rely on the weld to hold against removing a stubborn nut. Mine broke. Fortunately I was able to get a drill in there and drill through the 3/16" frame and put a nut on the back. I found a 3/8" locking nut in my hardware box, and the weld hadn't buggered up the threads enough so the nut wouldn't start straight. That was a win. 3/16" pilot hole followed by a 3/8" to fit the stud. I used a Dremel with a tiny sanding sleeve to get to bare metal on the frame. Then I greased up the front and back before running the nut down tight.

With the stud now firmly in place I was able to get the nut off. Then the seven ground rings. Again using the Dremel, I cleaned the corrosion off the rings, greased them and ran the old nut down on them completing the ground repair. I tried the jacks and they worked. I am not positive it was a ground issue so I am still going to replace the shuttle valve when it is delivered. Thanks Jim.
You are welcome. As mentioned later in this thread, you might check out that 40 amp fuse down there. Mine corroded enough that it open circuited. One day I had slides and jacks, the next day, neither. Came as a surprise. Lucky it was during mild weather. I replaced it with a couple large covered terminals that fit on the spade lugs of a 40 amp automotive fuse from NAPA. I didn't think of using a CB but probably wouldn't have gone that direction because that fuse shouldn't blow very often. I also like the suggestion of adding a solid ground to the motor. Think I'll do that myself.
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Old 03-14-2019, 03:24 PM   #18
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Although it is working fine now, I did install the new shuttle valve UPS delivered yesterday. I had the usual problem of the threads not catching, but with a bump with a hammer to seat the first O-ring and two (one was not enough) nuts in the socket to act as a spacer, I got that installed no problem.

Then following the above suggestion, I ran a #10 (#14 seemed too small) stranded jumper ground from the pump motor to the the 3/8" ground stud. Loving my Wirefy ratcheting terminal crimper. https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Tool...26825135&psc=1
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:27 AM   #19
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02 3852 DSDP FL chassis 3126B cat. HWH 310 I had the same ground problem, so made my own ground directly to the motor. Solved a lot of problems.... Cause of the ground problem was that the pan under the AC evap cover was directing the condensate to the top of the electric motor. After I recharged and repaired the AC the water started dripping on the motor and corroded the housing causing the open ground.

So, I have the older 2.25" t valves. One is leaking and I need to replace the orings. Any body know remember what size they are?? I live out of town and it makes it difficult to pull it and drive to town to get them and on top of that it is a small town so getting the right size can be difficult.

Also, may I suggest trying some PB blaster on the t valve before breaking it off.

thanks
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Old 03-15-2019, 04:12 PM   #20
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Ionfu - if you're not going to be using the coach for a little while, why not pull the solenoids and send them back to HWH for rebuild. They rebuilt all for $156 - cheaper than one is new. And they returned them in like 2 weeks. Then they'll be good for many years to come.
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Old 03-17-2019, 07:51 AM   #21
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Ionfu - if you're not going to be using the coach for a little while, why not pull the solenoids and send them back to HWH for rebuild. They rebuilt all for $156 - cheaper than one is new. And they returned them in like 2 weeks. Then they'll be good for many years to come.
why would I do that if I can rebuild them myself for 60 cents? Just got to know the correct size O'rings. Perhaps you are getting $10k per month from SS but I'm certainly not.....
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:11 AM   #22
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The o-rings are special square cut and may be different to find. They are pretty cheap through huh. One kit does the whole system.
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Old 03-18-2019, 12:19 AM   #23
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The o-rings are special square cut and may be different to find. They are pretty cheap through huh. One kit does the whole system.
hmm... so for the early 2.25 inch with the brass T they are square cut? The kit's that I've seen pix of seem to look like round cut. Guess I'll have to pull one to find out.
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Old 03-18-2019, 01:05 AM   #24
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hmm... so for the early 2.25 inch with the brass T they are square cut? The kit's that I've seen pix of seem to look like round cut. Guess I'll have to pull one to find out.
I thought so too. The kit includes o-rings for all the solenoids.
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Old 03-25-2019, 09:55 AM   #25
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the hwh o ring kit part number is R92101. it contains o'rings and spacers that fit all the solenoid valves.
if you have a bad o ring, there will be an external leak.
the r7430 o ring kit is a better buy because it contains quite a few more o rings.
for the valves and shuttle valve.

the square o'rings are spacers to make sure the round o ring is in the right position.
if you don't use them, the o ring will roll out of position and leak.
when hwh rebuilds a solenoid, they don't just replace the o rings.
they check the valve seat and needle valve, often replacing one or both. there are also internal o rings on the needle that are checked or replaced. this is where they leak internally. the repaired solenoid valves are also pressure tested for leaking before they are returned.



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