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10-09-2014, 06:06 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 6
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HWH Solenoid Issue
On HWH leveling jacks, straight type, non pivoting. The solenoid valve has separated in the hydraulic manifold and the front of the valve is still in the manifold. . Anyone know how to take the solenoid valve head out of the manifold once you screw out the valve?
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10-10-2014, 03:23 AM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,060
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Activate the pump for a second; the pressure should push it out. You will have some fluid be pushed out rather violently so cover things up and you should be fine. Keep us posted on how it goes.
__________________
Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
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10-10-2014, 09:24 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 6
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HWH Solinoid Issue
Thank you, I will try that and let you know if it works.
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10-10-2014, 12:03 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Full Timing
Posts: 751
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The nose of the solenoid, where the orifice and seat are, has an O-ring. This ring can stick in the manifold. The rear of the solenoid, where the needle and electrics are, threaded to the nose and to the manifold.
When you unscrew the solenoid from the manifold and the O-ring on the nose sticks, you end up unscrewing the nose from the body of the solenoid.
When this happens, you need to push the solenoid back into the manifold and give it a couple of turns. You want it to catch the threads on the nose piece without threading into the manifold.
Once you manage to do that, pry the solenoid away from the manifold. It should pop out with the nose piece. I've done this, it works.
__________________
Mike
2003 Alpine Coach 40MDTS - 400HP Cummins ISL
Can Am Spyder Roadster
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10-10-2014, 03:31 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 6
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Thanks, I found a cleaner and easier solution. Remove the corresponding hydraulic line to the solenoid valve, insert steel pin/drill bit and tap on the bit. The solenoid valve head stuck in the manifold pops out, clean and no mess or fuss. Reattach the hydraulic line and proceed to replace the solenoid valve. Thanks for the recommendation. I now have two methods of repair/replacement. Thanks again.
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10-11-2014, 12:20 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,079
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Just out of curiosity do you still have the old solenoid head. I was wondering if you could have taken a magnet and let it stick to the valve shaft and pulled it out. It has to be a material that a magnet can attach to. I think it would use a rare earth magnet but as I said I am curious if that would have worked.
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10-12-2014, 12:12 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 6
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Do not think this will work. It seemed to be stuck pretty good. The rod/drill bit is clean and guaranteed to work.
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10-13-2014, 11:28 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,079
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I do not know if it would work or not. A rare earth magnet has a pretty stong pull. It would be easier and cleaner than the rod drill bit method.
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10-20-2014, 01:56 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 569
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stuck seats
I had to replace all four of my jack solenoids due to overheating. 3 of the 4 seats were stuck so bad I had to sacrifice one on the valve bodies to make a seat removal tool. See the pics below.
I ground the OD threads on the body so that when I screwed on the seat the OD threads would not get in the way. These seats were stuck so deep that the internal and external threads engaged at the say. It took some pretty good prying on the valve body to remove the seat.
Can't use this bodt for a rebuild any more, but the other three can be.
__________________
Rick and Lynda Smith
2020 JAYCO Eagle 30.5CKTS
2018 RAM 2500 4x4 Crew, 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel
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