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Old 06-10-2008, 05:59 PM   #15
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Mike,

thanks for the tip. I have tried it, and several other combinations of on/off to no avail. I think WRV wired it wrong, I have already fixed the CableMaster, it was wired to the wrong fuse, a 15 AMP instead of the 20 AMP it is supposed to be. But sofar as long as I remember to reset it, it is not a big deal. I even put gas shock on the door, so it is really easy.
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Old 06-10-2008, 07:50 PM   #16
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Dr Dave, cable master, for the shore power cord? was it real slow, or seemed to be straining to real in the cable? I wonder if that is why mine is straining to real in the cable, maybe it's normal. Every time I read this forum, there is something else I read, which makes me wonder if I am going to be working on this thing more than I will use it?
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Old 06-10-2008, 07:53 PM   #17
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Dave, thank you for that tip, don't know as I want that much weight over me, even if it is on blocks. Maybe I can find a hole in the ground and work from there. This is an idea, I might employ, if the dealer won't fix it.
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Old 06-10-2008, 10:13 PM   #18
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Old:

The Cablemasters always sound like they are straining. I verified this with the vendor/owner at the last FMCA show.
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Old 06-11-2008, 05:41 AM   #19
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Iam on my second coach with hydro hot and use only electric for showers and doing dishes. Have only used the diesel switch when it gets cold or if I need a shower while I have the coach heat on. also if need to pre heat the engine prior to start up in cold temps.
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Old 06-11-2008, 07:58 AM   #20
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DrDave- If yours won't reset w/the procedure quoted above, then the soft boot feature was added by HHot mfgr later. I don't recall that feature on my 06 coach, but its on the 08.
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Old 08-24-2008, 08:13 PM   #21
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Update - since I started this thread, sort of figured it's time for an update.

Weekend last; we took the coach up to Hood River, OR to have a HH recommended repair person take a look at it. He replaced the control board, so the stir pump operates as it should and the Low Temperature Cutoff switch now works as well. But it appears the mixing valve is defective because we still don't have what we consider hot water to be. This weekend, a couple who had just purchased a 2007 (NEW) 40 FDQS, was in the park and being the neighborly type we stopped over and asked them if they needed any assistance. The lady of the house mentioned they have the HH head/hot water system, and we asked if we could test their hot water to see the difference. Ours gives you warm water, their system give you water so hot, it will burn you, and this is on the electric element, not the diesel burner. So I know ours is not operating correctly. I need to call the tech back, and work out another repair appointment because I want hot water.
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Old 08-25-2008, 05:11 AM   #22
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I'm sure they'll get it dialed in for you. We are certainly sold on our HydroHot system. I did have the float switch go out on me. I temporarily jumpered it to keep going until I could get the float switch replaced under warranty. Other than that it's been great.

I made some mods to make it easier to service the burner. I also put wire mesh inside the rubber burner air intake hose to prevent it from collapsing and restricting the intake air. If you replace the nozzle annually it'll burn nice and clean and you won't have the odor issues that some do. Although I did replace one nozzle with a new one that stunk terribly (bad nozzle) so I replaced it with a third and it burned nice and clean. I also relocated the hourmeter to a place where I could see it better. For details of these mods check out http://www.rvcruzer.com/hydrohot.htm for more info.
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:33 AM   #23
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Thanks Mark

Another post to remind me of my "extreme" mechanical inadequacies. lol
That is a great presentation on the HH. I was especially glad to see your auto cord re winder. I've never been a fan of mine. It has a little tub that winds the cable up ok but it always tangles when pushing the cord out. We've been, mostly, on hold for nearly two years and it seems like I spend all my time making sure everything works. Contact points seem to dry out fast in the desert heat so they take most of my attention.

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Old 08-25-2008, 08:07 PM   #24
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Mark and All,

Check out the link to his HH mods. I printed it out, it's a work of art. It might not work in the Alpine, since WRV had no rhime or reason for where they put stuff, at least in IMHO. And in my case, there is adequate room to do the service on the unit annually. Our filter is up in the front DS, on the frame, easy to get too. I especially like the valve idea, so I don't loose too much diesel on the ground, so that is one of the first things I will do, the first time I have to change the filter, great idea!!!!

I have good access to the burner assembly, but was not aware of the drain in the way, would it have worked turning the valve the other way?
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Old 08-27-2008, 05:42 AM   #25
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The valve was in tight quarters. Turning the handle "probably" wouldn't work and either way, the nipple had sealant wher it went into the tank and I didn't want to break the sealant finding out. If the boiler was empty of antifreeze I might have tried but it was much easier to just install the safety plug.
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Old 08-27-2008, 08:12 PM   #26
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Figured it was something like that. Still like those valves on the filter, that was great.
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Old 09-07-2008, 10:20 AM   #27
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Hello All,
Latest chapter in our HH saga, is the stir pump is out, that was diagnosed this morning. The pump is on order, and will hopefully be changed this coming weekend, while we are on a trip out of town. Will update this once we arrive back home.
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