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Old 03-06-2016, 06:41 PM   #1
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I continue to add water?

My batteries are either over charging or their bad. I have 4 6V house batteries that were made in May 2011. I have to continuously add water to them and when I'm near them you can hear them boiling. Is this a sign of bad batteries or is it time to replace my inverter/charger?....or both???
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:30 PM   #2
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I would check the setting on the inverter and make sure that you have the right type of battery specified. There is probably a setting that you select for % charge and type of charge.
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:53 PM   #3
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When my 6 volt GC batteries started to fail, I was adding water all the time.
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Old 03-06-2016, 08:01 PM   #4
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csrrsr.......it could be either or both. Just because the batts are 2011 doesn't make them good. You could check the specific gravity after off charger for 5 - 6 hours or remove the batts and take them to be load tested.
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Old 03-07-2016, 05:05 AM   #5
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I went out to the barn in December and smelled acid, my chassis batteries were boiling. I checked the inverter/converter and all was well. Replaced the old 2007 batteries and fired everything up, perfect!
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Old 03-07-2016, 05:53 AM   #6
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Batteries are suspect at that age. However they need to be pulled out, charged up individually then load tested.

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Old 03-07-2016, 08:21 AM   #7
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Yeap, could be either. Or both. Odds are, though, that one battery has a dead cell and is dragging the voltage reading down, resulting in a continuous active charge that boils away the water. If you pull them and test as the others have suggested, you will very likely find at least one that is bad.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:33 AM   #8
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Check and report the voltage.

If more than 14 charger is too high.

If less than 14 batteries bad.

Happy place is near 13.5 depending on battery and temperature
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
Yeap, could be either. Or both. Odds are, though, that one battery has a dead cell and is dragging the voltage reading down, resulting in a continuous active charge that boils away the water. If you pull them and test as the others have suggested, you will very likely find at least one that is bad.
I forgot to add that when on charger....3 batteries were at 7.4 to 7.7 Volts. The battery where the positive is connected to the coach was at 6.6V. Also, this battery is not boiling? We are headed to AZ this morning and will do more testing off the charger on our way down.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:55 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by jacwjames View Post
I would check the setting on the inverter and make sure that you have the right type of battery specified. There is probably a setting that you select for % charge and type of charge.

I check the electrolyte level in my batteries every 3 months but find they only need water every 6 - 9 months.
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:44 PM   #11
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I would check the setting on the inverter and make sure that you have the right type of battery specified. There is probably a setting that you select for % charge and type of charge.
The charger was set on Gel. I changed it to invert/wet since all four batteries are wet Trojans and the humm stopped. I cannot believe I have had this thing set on gel 1 for the last 3 years???? Hopefully the grocery store won't miss me buying so much distilled water!!! I hope there was no damage to the charger?
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:06 PM   #12
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Since you have 2 strings of batteries to make your battery plant there is a task in performance maintenance that is used widely in the trades known as " mid - string monitoring".

I was not a fan as those who were pushing it were clueless as to why and we're trying to remove other critical things.

But it does come in handy for real fast "high level" checking.

First we are not exact but do need a decent voltmeter but a cheap out of tolerance HF unit works just as well as a 400 buck Fluke 375.

How so you ask?.

First some things to think about.

Batteries are complicated chemical based energy plants but for all we do they are just a box that is one of 2 things, a source of energy when it is a battery and a simple load resistor when it is being charged.

Just that simple, leave the complicated stuff for a different discussion.

Next basic dc circuit design.

All items in series will have same current flow regardless of their resistance.

All items in parallel will have the same voltage drop regardless of current draw.

Next is ohms law that states voltage of a circuit or device is the resistance in ohms multiplied by the current flow in amps.

Got it so far?

How do we check batteries.

Assume 2 strings of 6 volt pairs creating a 12 volt battery plant.

Assume all batteries same part number.

Given a battery is either a source of power or a load while charged we can just treat them a resistor both as power source and a load while charging.

If we have 2 equal value resistors in series the voltage drop across each should be the same.

Since we have 2 parallel strings of same resistance devices we can imagine a virtual connection between both sets at the center point.

Remember all batteries are treated as resistors and all should be same.

Now the fun part.

We do NOT CARE what any given voltage is...so any voltmeter will do but the more places past the decimal the better so something that measures 6.25 is better than something that just states 6.

You measure from the mid point of battery string 1 and string 2.

You are hoping for zero volts.

Next measure from same point to ground on each mid point and write it down.

Next measure same point to hot and write it down.

When you have 4 or more strings this makes more sense.

Anyway you are looking for the voltage that is the most "DIFFERENT" from the rest.

So if 3 read 6 to 6.2 and one reads 5.8 then that is indicating something.

Either the resistance in that one is lower than it should be or its companion is higher than it should be.

Fire up your inverter and turn on every light to increase the current flow so per Ohms law the higher current flow will cause voltages to change more.

Can do same as charging but you need to be fast as voltage changes as it charges.

For setting voltage the good meter is needed but testing the others are okay.

A bit wordy but it gives yiu something to think about.
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Old 03-07-2016, 11:46 PM   #13
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What is the voltage at battery terminals ??
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Old 03-08-2016, 05:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
Since you have 2 strings of batteries to make your battery plant there is a task in performance maintenance that is used widely in the trades known as " mid - string monitoring".

I was not a fan as those who were pushing it were clueless as to why and we're trying to remove other critical things.

But it does come in handy for real fast "high level" checking.

First we are not exact but do need a decent voltmeter but a cheap out of tolerance HF unit works just as well as a 400 buck Fluke 375.

How so you ask?.

First some things to think about.

Batteries are complicated chemical based energy plants but for all we do they are just a box that is one of 2 things, a source of energy when it is a battery and a simple load resistor when it is being charged.

Just that simple, leave the complicated stuff for a different discussion.

Next basic dc circuit design.

All items in series will have same current flow regardless of their resistance.

All items in parallel will have the same voltage drop regardless of current draw.

Next is ohms law that states voltage of a circuit or device is the resistance in ohms multiplied by the current flow in amps.

Got it so far?

How do we check batteries.

Assume 2 strings of 6 volt pairs creating a 12 volt battery plant.

Assume all batteries same part number.

Given a battery is either a source of power or a load while charged we can just treat them a resistor both as power source and a load while charging.

If we have 2 equal value resistors in series the voltage drop across each should be the same.

Since we have 2 parallel strings of same resistance devices we can imagine a virtual connection between both sets at the center point.

Remember all batteries are treated as resistors and all should be same.

Now the fun part.

We do NOT CARE what any given voltage is...so any voltmeter will do but the more places past the decimal the better so something that measures 6.25 is better than something that just states 6.

You measure from the mid point of battery string 1 and string 2.

You are hoping for zero volts.

Next measure from same point to ground on each mid point and write it down.

Next measure same point to hot and write it down.

When you have 4 or more strings this makes more sense.

Anyway you are looking for the voltage that is the most "DIFFERENT" from the rest.

So if 3 read 6 to 6.2 and one reads 5.8 then that is indicating something.

Either the resistance in that one is lower than it should be or its companion is higher than it should be.

Fire up your inverter and turn on every light to increase the current flow so per Ohms law the higher current flow will cause voltages to change more.

Can do same as charging but you need to be fast as voltage changes as it charges.

For setting voltage the good meter is needed but testing the others are okay.

A bit wordy but it gives you something to think about.
TQ60
No disrespect intended but after reading that advice and thinking about it, (and reading it again), I am still clueless as to what it means.
Sorry.
Mel
'96 Safari
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