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Old 11-10-2013, 07:29 AM   #29
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Thanks everyone for your replies!

Based on this site I think I'm going to sand it clean and leave it not painted so it's fully readable:


Sirpurrcivl: Thanks for your comments. =) According to that site it's is a Stainless Steel plate.

Hawk57: I did not remove the tank. I'm renovating many things, as fast as possible, on the RV DIY style as I'm trying to save money for our move cross country. =). However, I am looking at having the metal refrigerator shelves powder coated because they have some rust and look awful. I'm so tempted to have them powder coated in purple or a really bright green. Lol!

Kurtsara: Yup! Your assumption is correct on thermostat=heater. I didn't assume that way and that's why 9 years later I've discovered a heater. Lol!. I plan on taking a look to see what the holding tanks look like underneath and what contraptions are under there that may be part of the Arctic Package.

Thanks everyone!

Hiya! I'm Lorelei and I'm renovating a 1994 Firan Raven for FT living. 24k Miles; Chevy P30 7.4L (Gas) engine. Renovation blog here: http://rvrenovation.wordpress.com
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Old 11-10-2013, 07:51 AM   #30
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You should check the date on the back of you carbon monoxide, and smoke detector and make sure they are not out of date. Replace if original for sure. Maybe LP gas detector also( still on my todo list)

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Old 11-10-2013, 07:59 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by OneSiren View Post

Propane tank tested, washed, sanded, wiped and now taped.

Should I tape or paint this panel?

Full prep photo:

You should tape over that information. You would be much better off removing the tank to do a proper cleaning and painting. Should only be 4 bolts holding it on. I did mine and was able to clean much better. If it is almost empty, the weight is at it's least.
Steve and Sheri with Archie (and Hiro, R.I.P.)
2000 Winnebago 35U, Ford F53/6.8l V10
F150 Ford and Vintage Aspencade.
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:11 AM   #32
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Charlie - great suggestion! I see now the expiration notice on the front of the detector. I'll get one of those in my cart on order today. =)

sswilson - I'd remove the tank, but I don't know anything about propane, the connectors on the tank, etc. Also, I have very limited help and I'm doing 98% of this by myself with an insanely long to do list and a very short time frame. I have an idea on how I'm going to paint the top of the tank (the tightest spot) but the rest of the tank is accessible from underneath so I'll just have to start each coat on my back and under the rig.

Thanks again everyone for your time and responses. I REALLY appreciate it. =)
Hiya! I'm Lorelei and I'm renovating a 1994 Firan Raven for FT living. 24k Miles; Chevy P30 7.4L (Gas) engine. Renovation blog here: http://rvrenovation.wordpress.com
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Old 12-01-2013, 09:54 AM   #33
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Note: This is a thread project progress update only. There are no questions in this post, but comments/wisdom/opinions are always welcomed. =)Propane tank has been refinished. I still have quite a bit of inside work (headliner, cabinet doors back on and the vent/heater clean out) that I'll need to do before the rig will be road ready to go get propane and test the heater. I'll update the thread again when I'm at that point. Thanks again for your help. =)

For Thread Archive: How I re-did the propane tank:

Propane Tank Before & Sanding/Cleaning:
Propane Tank

Rustoleum for Heavy Metal Primer:
Propane tank primed with Rustoleum Primer for...

Rustoleum Stops Rust Gloss White Coats 1 & 2:
Propane Tank - Rustoleum Stops Rust Gloss White Coats 1 & 2

Propane Tank Refinish - DONE

I've hand sanded with a 60 grit sandpaper the propane tank while it's still attached to the rig. This is the first time I've painted something like this. I know now that the smooth old paint I left near the main gaskets should have come off or been scuffed more. I inserted a piece of craft paper above the tank secured with painters tape to protect the upper compartment from paint. I put painters tape on everything I didn't want to get paint on it and knew I could bang a brush against it easily during the painting process.

I found that using a sponge brush to apply a thick-ish coat and then use a small 2-3" sponge roller evenly distribute and to create a smooth finish. Once the paint has "glossed" over I found that if I touched it with the roller I had to add some more paint for it to get that smooth finish again. I used Rustoleum Primer for Heavy Rust and then Rustoleum Stops Rust in a Gloss White. I ended up using 8 sponge brushes (cheapest kind) and one sponge roller that I only used with the white paint. I wrapped up the sponge roller in a rubber glove and taped it with painters tape between days of painting.

I didn't sand after the Primer and I could quickly tell that was a mistake once I started with the white paint. I sanded after coats 1 and 2 of white. It took 3 coats to get to the photo below. If the weather were still warm I would definitely do a 4th coat focusing on touch ups to some small areas that look like they missed some of coat 2.

Hiya! I'm Lorelei and I'm renovating a 1994 Firan Raven for FT living. 24k Miles; Chevy P30 7.4L (Gas) engine. Renovation blog here: http://rvrenovation.wordpress.com
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:25 AM   #34
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I thought that your idea of getting the shelves powder coated was a good one. Powder coating wears well. I am curious why you did not just try fusion paint instead that is just the price of a can of spray paint and a lot faster than sending them out for powder coating. I have used fusion spray paint in bathrooms on my rental houses. I used it to spray the formica around the sink and I have one house that it has been there ten years and still going strong.
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:00 AM   #35
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Hiya, gemini5362!

Thanks for the comment! I got the quote on the powder coating and it was $150 for the three shelves and then he'll throw in the rod for free. I didn't want to pay that and so I'll definitely look into the fusion paint and check that out. Thanks so much for taking the time to comment. =)
Hiya! I'm Lorelei and I'm renovating a 1994 Firan Raven for FT living. 24k Miles; Chevy P30 7.4L (Gas) engine. Renovation blog here: http://rvrenovation.wordpress.com
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:41 PM   #36
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I'm a little late with this but the next time you need to paint some rusted metal, consider this stuff: Jasco Quart Prep & Primer - JAS-QJPP00717 - BigPaintStore.Com

It's a chemical compound that actually changes the rust back to metal. And it works.

I've never had any luck with the Rustoleum products. Rust comes back to the surface in a matter of weeks. They seem to be more hype then substance but the Jasco actually works and is much less expensive. I have some unpainted and painted metal I'd put it on 9 years ago and it's still fine. The chemical used in the Jasco has been around and known to restore rust to metal for 1-200 years.
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:01 PM   #37
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This reminds me that it wasn't until about the 3rd or 4th trip in our present coach that i realized it had TWO heaters. always ran the one in the front. never knew there was one for the rear. took some blankets off the bed!!!
2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor "The scooter II"
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Old 12-01-2013, 02:32 PM   #38
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Most "Arctic Packs" are stick-on resistance heaters with built-in thermostats. My rig has them on the grey and black waste tanks (two on each).

They're 12-volts DC powered, each drawing 7 amps. The weird feature is the thermostats, which are non-adjustable. They turn on when the tank temperature drops below 40F, which is reasonable, since they have to keep the contents above freezing, but they don't switch off again until the contents are above 60F. Who wants to heat their sewage up to 60, particularly while drawing 28 amps from the batteries? I've disconnected mine!
Frank Damp -Anacortes, WA,(DW- Eileen)
ex-pat Brits (1968) and now ex-RVers, as of 08 Dec 14.
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Old 12-01-2013, 03:15 PM   #39
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Oldie but a great vehicle

I am of the belief that there are some really great rvs that are put to rest way to soon. That said, propane is nothing to fool with. Make sure you have an excellent smoke detector and test it with a tech with the windows and doors open. One of my suggestions would be to check the ignition tube from the pilot or spark to the heater. Spiders love this location and can turn a blue flame yellow (not what you want) in a heart beat. My other suggestion is to get a fan only switch installed so the duct work can make you AC more even throughout the vehicle. Propane is a great source when not at a site, but a small room electric heater will usually do the job. If it does not smell clean after an hour of operation....call a tech.
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Old 07-28-2014, 07:15 PM   #40
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I wanted to follow up on what I ended up doing with the heater. The answer is: not much. After reading about running a radiating heater inside, how this heater is loud, how there is a fire risk with who knows what that has made nests in there - I figured it wasn't worth the risk right now.

I did use my dryer vent cleaning bushes and extensions and cleaned out all of the vents inside. Then I also filled up the three floor vents with some pink insulation (not all the way through, just there at the opening to the floor.

Then I put a Marine table base, and a flat metal deck connector with holes in it into the hole. Now I can have a marine table inserted into the floor in the front, in the kitchen area and then right inside the bedroom door.

Photos here.

Marine Table Base | RV Renovation

If you have any other suggestions of things I can do to "plug off" the heater on the side, please leave them here.

Thank you all for your suggestions, reminders and encouragement. I would not have been as successful or productive without this site. =)


Hiya! I'm Lorelei and I'm renovating a 1994 Firan Raven for FT living. 24k Miles; Chevy P30 7.4L (Gas) engine. Renovation blog here: http://rvrenovation.wordpress.com
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