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Old 12-12-2014, 08:15 PM   #15
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I think your turn indicator is a burned bulb that is internally shorted or a defective trailor diode box. I totally agree with a bad ground under dash. Also there is a wad of relays just next to throttle pedal behind heater cover. Just reach around lower dash cover just above throttle and you will grab a bundle of relays. Most wiring from ignition switch and front hvac are fed thru these relays. They like to get corrosion from the heater. I think one of the relays power up the message center and guages.

Dave and Laura & two cats
02 Discovery with Accord toad
retired auto rv tech and teacher, wife rt nurse
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:18 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Ubootwo View Post
Hi All,

This is long winded so be patient, I have a 2001 Fleetwood Discovery 37G, i have been experiencing the dreaded gauge cluster issue where they would go off, come back, on off, stay on, go off etc.
Now it has progressed to where if i would turn on the lights or put it in reverse the gauges go dead. The lights work, trans is ok, but i will also mention that sometimes when driving and the gauges go dead (yes all gauges) the Trans will shift into 4th gear even while driving at 65 mph and it slams into 4th and wont let me out even if the gauges come back on, only way to get out of it is to stop the vehicle and manually put it into 1st and go again. Now funny thing is this does not happen all the time, i think it only happens when the gauges go dead for a period of time (in other words if it only spikes on and off it does not effect trans).
Here is another strange thing, blinkers work normal while no lights are on, but when you turn on the lights the right blinker stays on on the message center.
The above is a quick version of the problem i am having, i have been on the phone with Frtliner for hours for a straight wk, and of course they just keep recommending i buy all the high dollar parts. I had Camping World look at it and they had no Clue, had a mobile mechanic in the coach for 4 hrs at 100 bucks and hr and came up empty. The pins were checked for voltage on the VDC unit, and by (remco from frtliner) to replace so i did, nothing changed. When that was changed out i got nothing on the gauges at all, but since then i can get them to come on but only by turning the key completely over and starting the coach (sorry forgot to mention it does start), then it was recommended to replace the MC (message Center) did that nothing changed. Changed the Alternator, nothing changed, Have checked Grounds/voltages/ fuses etc still at a loss as to whats up.
Then i was out there goofing around with it and noticed something, when the gauges go out there appears to be a voltage drop, i can see on the volt gauge that its charging well then when it goes out you can see b4 it happens that the voltage gauge goes into discharge.
When i put on my lights you can see every few seconds (and hear via the engine surge) something is sucking up my 12volt side, and it will stop after a while and then kick in again and every other second or so it will do it again. The lights go dim for a sec and you can hear the engine bog down for a sec then goes back to normal.

I am at a loss as to what can make it do this, supposedly C.W. checked the batts and said they were good (not that i trust them) there has to be something pulling my volts down which in turn is not supplying enough 12vts + to keep the gauges going etc.
Could it be the inverter/charger? could it be bad batts? could it be grounds i cant find, could it be in the BCC?

I'm looking for help cause i already spent over 3k trying to get it going correctly, keep in mid that it was working perfectly prior to it starting to dance on the message center.

How do you drive something that has no gauges? cant take to Frtliner as they told me it was Fleetwood issue as they only supplied the parts for the chassis and fleetwood would have been the ones to install this area, but guess what fleetwood has to say, yup that is not them it is a freightliner issue!.


Thoughts? PLEASE HELP!

Wow when it rains it pours for you feller.
I am no RV technician but the I will tell you is that I would run fast and far away from Camping World when it comes to their working on your unit. They do not pay their techs a fair wage and therefore do not have the best of techs who give a darn about your coach. Their on the clock and watch it hour by hour to go home. I have had very disastrous results in many different directions with camping word. Run baby run.
Me not being an RV tech I would ask: Isn't the technical world the same with all mechanics? What I mean to say is the auto dealers have portable hand held and hardwire computers that they plug into you vehicle and it does a complete diagnostic test for you whole vehicle. Don't they have them in the motorhome Techs toolbox as well? Seems to me that would be what I would look into for your multiple problems. Good luck. Lets us know how it all works out for you. Dave Packard

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Old 03-27-2015, 11:54 AM   #17
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Dash Cluster

I had a similar problem with a 2006 Bounder Diesel. The cat dealer called Fleetwood and was told how to troubleshoot. Bottomline, the dash cluster is installed by FL and parked outside until it is sent to Fleetwood for assembly. The wires going into the cluster get wet and rust and five years later i had problems that caused all the dash lights to blink at the same time. I had it repaired at my expense in 2011 and have not had any more problems. This was found at my last stop to purchase fuel after traveling from the East to west coast and almost home. I was so happy to get it fixed that I did not get involved in the BLAME GAME that is so often the case with a MH. Good luck.
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Old 03-28-2015, 12:25 AM   #18
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Thinking about your problem you might look at powers and grounds to the vdc and trans computer. They may share a power or ground and I'm thinking power as DW switched power comes from a relay I discussed by front hvac. I have the wiring diagram for my 02 disc but only the fl side. The relays for ignition power and headlamps may share a power. If you need an ignition switch just ask at any parts store for a switch for a 71 chev pu. Napa has the trim ring, tumblers and switch seperate.
Dave and Laura & two cats
02 Discovery with Accord toad
retired auto rv tech and teacher, wife rt nurse
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:12 AM   #19
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I've been in the 12 volt industry for 30 years so here's the skinny. Two things can cause an electronic problem "IF" your components are good . Most common thing "Mechanics " do if automotive repair they know squat about 12 volt. Sorry I'm rambling. First you going to meter you plug going in to your dash assembly, check voltage sold be 12.89. But I would bet my dog it's as simple as a bad ground. If it was power once out usually stays out.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:21 AM   #20
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One more thing. Get a digital test light. They plug into your cigarette lighter 100% safe even for air bag circuits. Red light 12 volt green light good ground. Wave down a snap on truck or mac truck, runs around 50 bucks . Greatest thing since sliced bread

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need help, fleetwood

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