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Old 02-16-2013, 11:45 AM   #15
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To start with, spend the money and put a concrete pad in, the underneath of your Coach will stay in a lot nicer condition on cement vs gravel outside, you will be glad you did. As the others are doing well with the electrical and other items.

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Old 02-16-2013, 11:47 AM   #16
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We installed two RV hook ups at our new summer home last summer.
I gave the electrician a wiring diagram I downloaded. It's a good thing I did because he wasn't aware of the proper outlet to use. The wire length was about 120 feet and I put in two boxes on the pedestal. Because of the cost I had 30 amp instead of 50 amp installed. My motor home can run two ACs on 30 amp and so can most/all of the RVs belonging to friends that will visit.

It wasn't feasible to trench deep enough for the sewer line so I bought a Flojet macerator and trenched for a one inch PVC pipe 130 feet long with hose fittings on each end in valve boxes. It ends within ten feet of the sewer clean out in the back yard. I have a couple of dedicated 3/4 inch hoses - one connects the output to the clean-out and the other between the RV site input and an RV when the macerator is used.

I also bought a 120 vac in 15 vdc volt 40 amp out power supply so wiring my motor home or friends RVs isn't necessary.

I use a couple of 50 ft water hoses coupled together connected to a four outlet manifold and a faucet on the side of the house. Each outlet has a valve. Both RVs will have two water connections.

We had the opportunity to test everything out last summer when friends showed up and stayed for a month before we both headed south for the winter. We were staying in our motor home so both hook ups got exercised.

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Old 02-16-2013, 11:56 AM   #17
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He had a heck of a time drilling through my floor in the house...its wired into my main distribution panel on a separate breaker...broke a drill bit...the DW gave him another 25 bucks for his troubles:-)
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:57 AM   #18
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I installed a 50 amp myself from our shop after getting instruction from our local Home Depot. Works fine. An electrician shouldn't have a bit of problem.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:15 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
Only thing different is one more wire, the breaker and a less expensive outlet, all about a couple dollars different in the end, labor will be same, do 50 period.

Better to add additional 120 outlet on seperate circuit while at it, handy to have!

Sewer may be issue, may need permit, city/county may have issue.
If you are in California you may need to pay "Capacity Fees' in order to make another connection to the sewer. Good advise above, call your sewer company before connecting. Enforcement actions by the sewer district can be expensive.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:19 PM   #20
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I agree with Route 66... it is 240v. I went to Lowes, picked up an RV outlet outdoor box, a 50 amp breaker, about 20 ft of 4 wire and did the job myself in about an hour. Total cost $70. Not a Difficult job.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:24 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
Sewer may be issue, may need permit, city/county may have issue.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:39 PM   #22
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I had this project completed at two homes now. For the most part any licensed electrician knows what to install. Even in Bo-funk where I last lived. Placed the 50 amp receptacle upside down but I changed this issue myself. He or her will have to bury in conduit at least 18 inches, or whatever your county code is. Water, as stated depends on your environment. I would suggest a macerator system, saves money having to plum another PVC line to the site. I pump my tanks about 100 ft at my present home, further in the Carolina's.. Compact your gravel. Best of luck.
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:41 PM   #23
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I put in 50amp service at my house last year for the MH with out a hitch.Go ahead and do the 50amp you will not regret it IMHO.Good Luck and many Safe and Happy Miles and Smiles
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:52 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by IMDSailor View Post
All good ideas, just make sure you electrician knows how to wire for a RV plug, I'm sure this will be repeated by future posters to your question. It's 50 Amps 110V, not 50 Amps 240V. A very important distinction. You didn't indicate what part of the world your in, so if you live in an area with a winter climate make sure your plumber uses a Frost Free Hose bib with Anti-Syphon. If you live in the South just Anti-Syphon is fine.
Hope this helps,
The 50A service is technically a 240V service if wired properly. It uses a NEMA 14-50R 3 pole 4-wire service, which has 2 hot legs, 1 neutral, and 1 ground, which actually equals 100A of service. The motorhome only uses 110V, but the 2 legs are equally distributed within the motorhome's panel box. Thus having 100A available to the coach.

X and Y are hot, and must be wired to a 50A double pole breaker.
G is ground, W is neutral.

6/3 w/g wire should be used, if less than 100'. If you have a longer run, you may need larger conductors to minimize voltage drops.

Here's a good link: The 50-amp 120/240-volt 3 pole 4
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:56 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by tedgard01 View Post
Hi. I am a newbie (to the sight and RVing). I would like to park my RV next to my garage. I have a landscaper giving me a quote for putting in a gravel pad with railroad ties for edging. I also want to have an electrician install a 50 amp service at the back of my house to plug my RV into. I also need to have a plumber another faucet run to that corner and see if I can get a sewer line outlet run over there as well. Does anyone have experience getting this done and would be able to provide advice and/or pointers before I start calling around to get this done?

You don't say where you live or in what kind of regulatory circumstances, but you DO say you're new to all this, so:

It's one thing to live on forty rural acres as I do, another to live on a 100x100 lot in town, and still another in an "HOA"- type community. If I were you I'd start by making sure all of this is allowed where you live, and what if any restrictions/permits/regulations govern what you want to do.

You don't want to find yourself looking down the barrel of a cease-and-desist order halfway through, or worse, after it's done and paid for.

Best of luck with the project!
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:13 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by palehorse89 View Post
To start with, spend the money and put a concrete pad in, the underneath of your Coach will stay in a lot nicer condition on cement vs gravel outside, you will be glad you did. As the others are doing well with the electrical and other items.
Agree with the concrete pad, we had that at the last house, it helped keep the RV fairly clean. Now we have this:

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In both locations I installed 50A service, connection to my septic (no permits to worry about in either location) and used an existing hose bib for water. I even had a cable TV connection at the last house, we use an antenna here so don't need it.

For electrical, as others have said, do make sure they hook up a separate neutral and ground to the 50A outlet, the outlet is a 50A 4 wire oven outlet, NEMA 14-50R, most electricians are familiar with those. Outlet boxes will go from >$30 to about $120 depending on whether you want a 120V outlet and breakers right by the outlet or not.

For sewer, I basically put in a 3" "cleanout" at the end of the line in one installation, the other was a 3" tap off the 4" line to the septic tank.

The worst part of running the electric and sewer with the RV tent was the digging through the fine New England "soil".
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:14 PM   #27
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Permit required for the sewer. Local authority check suggested.
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:41 PM   #28
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Welcome to the forum! I had 30amp ran to my RV garage and 50amp, water,sewer,and cable ran to my driveway. The reason I did mine this way was if in the garage in prep to leave it's all I needed for 1 AC and fridge. If in the summer heat I used the 50amp to run anything we needed and to let our RV friends use it when they visited. This worked well for our use. Our RV friends loved it! As said before be SURE that the electrician knows how to wire it!

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