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Old 10-18-2015, 10:01 AM   #1
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I Want an emergency plug device for air hoses.

I'm thinking it would be a good idea to have a way to plug an air hose in case of a leak, break minor damage to air hoses so I could keep driving the rig.

Has anyone developed their way to do this?
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:25 AM   #2
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http://www.usabluebook.com/p-290445-...12-thru-1.aspx


A clamp like this would do.
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:29 AM   #3
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There are two cases where you need something.
1. Disconnect and plug a hose.
2. Replace a damaged section (like air brake line).

I bought several air hose fittings and a some couplings and plugs in two sizes(1/4 & 3/8 tube)
have some extra hose from my AF1install.

Like this: Ridetech Fitting Air Line Straight Male 1 8 in NPT to 1 8 in Brass Each | eBay

You can even buy Push-Loc couplings for splicing.


Regards,
Dan
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:39 AM   #4
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Hi Steve, welcome to the forum. Suggest you go into the user CP and edit your signature to show us what coach we are talking about. Very helpful when asking these types of questions.

Now, I don't know if others have rigged for this purpose but I use my little 115V portable shop air compressor and plug into the quick connect at the front next to the generator to air the coach up before I move out of my garage. This way I don't have to run the engine as long inside and pollute the garage. This connection is on most coaches with air brakes as a port for the tow truck to plug into to release the park brake in the event your require a tow.

Personally, if I had an air system problem, I would call for a tow truck.
This is one of the vital systems on your coach and to run down the road with a portable compressor plugged in to operate the brakes is just not a good plan.
Not sure, but there may be some legalities involved also.
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:49 AM   #5
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All that has been said is good BUT! If you think about it, there isn't/aren't ANY AIR HOSES on a coach that are "un-important". That is, there's a reason for each and every air hose on an air brake equipped coach/truck. You end up "Blocking" air to one or more important components, there might be dire consequenses to pay.

While your though it admirable and, not without merit, you may be causing a bad situation to get worse and or, maybe even a potential accident due to possibly improper braking system activation etc. I just think it's something to consider before plugging any particular hose.

Now, if it were me, I'd maybe, MAYBE look into a "SPLICE" of some sort. That is, measure or find out, what the inside diameter of the hoses that have the most history or potential for blowing and, maybe have some barbed steel or at the very least, copper hose splices and some nice quality clamps.

That way, if, you're out in the middle of the planet some place and your coach pops a hose, and you're equipped to do some form of repair, at least you could try and do it. Then, you drive slowly, and carefully to see if your repair will hold. Then, if things work, you get it to someplace and time, where proper repairs can be made. Just my TWO cents. Good luck.
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Old 10-18-2015, 10:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis45 View Post

Personally, if I had an air system problem, I would call for a tow truck.
This is one of the vital systems on your coach and to run down the road with a portable compressor plugged in to operate the brakes is just not a good plan.
Not sure, but there may be some legalities involved also.
The OP only wants to repair a damaged line, he did not ask how to provide an auxiliary air supply.

For me, the last choice would be a tow truck, too much risk of front end damage and a inexperienced operator.
These Push-Loc fittings are almost idiot proof. You just need a square cut end without surface scratches.

Even something as simple as damaging the line to your air horn solenoid could bring down your system.

Dan
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Old 10-18-2015, 11:05 AM   #7
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FWIW as I understand it air pressure turns the brakes off. A leaking line would apply the brakes. Ditto a cut and plugged line. It seems a splice or replacement line is the only option....If I am missing something a lot of other folks probably are too.
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Old 10-18-2015, 11:17 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpinvidic View Post
The OP only wants to repair a damaged line, he did not ask how to provide an auxiliary air supply.

For me, the last choice would be a tow truck, too much risk of front end damage and a inexperienced operator.
These Push-Loc fittings are almost idiot proof. You just need a square cut end without surface scratches.

Even something as simple as damaging the line to your air horn solenoid could bring down your system.

Dan
You're right, I completely misinterpreted the OP, original question. I do carry a couple of push ons in my tool box for such an occasion. Also carry a 1/2" NPT plug to block the dryer should it fail.
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Old 10-18-2015, 11:27 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by nothermark View Post
FWIW as I understand it air pressure turns the brakes off. A leaking line would apply the brakes. Ditto a cut and plugged line. It seems a splice or replacement line is the only option....If I am missing something a lot of other folks probably are too.
nothermark; a coach's service air brakes ( all axles) are air applied; the park brake, ( rear axle) is spring applied and air released. If the coaches air pressure drops below 65 PSI alarms start to sound, below 50 PSI the park brake will apply to stop the coach. A coach with air suspension and other air operated systems, as well as air brakes will have isolation valves , to try and maintain air pressure ( over 65 PSI) for brake operation should a component , like an air spring ( bag ) fail, so the coach can be moved, off the highway to facilitate a repair. In the event of air system failure , where air pressure over 50 PSI to the park brake cannot be achieved the coach stops where it is and special procedures to tow it must be used.
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Old 10-18-2015, 11:49 AM   #10
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Steve11669; there are usually only two different sizes of air lines in use on most chassis past the air tanks and there are brass fittings available for repair available ; I picked mine up at a heavy truck repair center and will post pictures as soon as I find them.
The air lines from the compressor to the dryer, and from the dryer to the tanks, can vary in size by chassis manufacturer, and in the event of failure would require complete replacement, as road side patching should not be attempted.
There are also fittings that can be used to by-pass the air system dryer, in the event the system leak happens there, but because of the possibility of allowing water into the brake system, causing the components to rust internally, should only be done as a last resort.
Remember, going under a coach with an air leak can be dangerous and all safety precautions need to be taken; blocking the frame , eye protection.
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Old 10-19-2015, 02:18 PM   #11
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Well, as advised above, I went to CP and changed some things on my settings so I'll see if a MH description comes up with this message.

Thanks for the responses to my desire to have a few items to repair an emergency air loss. I've owned 5 other motor homes but this is the first one with an air system.
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Old 10-19-2015, 02:19 PM   #12
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Well, I see my signature info did not show up. I'll try again.
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Old 10-19-2015, 03:27 PM   #13
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Steve, It showed up in your location.

I had a brake diaphragm fail on the front axle of our MCI and it had the potential to run the air down very quickly as we were in the mountains. Disconnected the hose and found a ballpoint pen that fitted inside exactly and reconnected the hose. Braking was slightly unbalanced side to side, but it got us to the campground where I could get a new diaphragm delivered.
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