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Old 08-17-2012, 10:26 PM   #15
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my monaco has about 4" worth of materials insulating it. 2" of it is foam.... Easy to see when you remove the a/c register on the ceiling. My front cap has cabinets surrounding the front. No too worried about it being insulated... even in FL 100 degree/100% humidity I have no problems cooling the rig
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:21 PM   #16
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This denim insulation works great in the front cap area
Ultratouch Insulation from The Home Depot - Model 60301-16482
Here's another link with additional choices
http://www.greendepot.com/greendepot...P&dept_id=5100
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:47 PM   #17
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Joe, your main ceiling is insulated just fine. The problem is that Monaco didn't bother to put insulation in the front cap. At least they didn't in mine. I never checked, but they probably didn't bother to insulate the back cap either.

I am going to insulate the front cap on my coach for two reasons. The front of the coach really overheats, to the point that I am on my fourth DVD player in two years. They get so hot that they just burn out.

I agree that it's hard to believe that a 'quality RV manufacturer' could be so cheap that they won't spend a couple of bucks for a little insulation, but there it is. I guess they believed that what you couldn't see wouldn't stop you from buying the coach.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:11 AM   #18
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Thanks to all of you for your comments! I should have realized that the insulation would be built into the roof structure. That still doesn't explain why they would not properly insulate the end caps! There is a strip of 2" thick batt insulation about a foot wide across the front, but that doesn't nearly cover the area. I'm going to buy some 8" fiberglass batt insulation and stuff the front area behind the cabinets. I will put it behind the wiring next to the outer shell. I think I will go ahead and stuff it in the ceiling over the cockpit area while it's open and I can get to it. Again, thanks for all your help! You guys are the best!
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:05 AM   #19
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I have one more question. I mentioned pushing fiberglass batt insulation into the ceiling above the cockpit area. Does anyone know of any problems this might cause? Does there need to be air space between the roof and the ceiling? Thanks again!

OK, two more questions! Does it matter which way the paper side of the insulation is turned?
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:13 AM   #20
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A note about foam. If you can use it with out destroying your interior, do it.

Auto manufactures have been using it in A pillars, B pillars, dog legs and quarter panels for years.

2 reasons: Sound deading and water proofing. It will also glue everything together, so take that into account.


Just don't use the triple expanding stuff in a tight opening.
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:14 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
I have one more question. I mentioned pushing fiberglass batt insulation into the ceiling above the cockpit area. Does anyone know of any problems this might cause? Does there need to be air space between the roof and the ceiling? Thanks again!


Your batten insulation will be the air space. It will just control the air movement.
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:45 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
I have one more question. I mentioned pushing fiberglass batt insulation into the ceiling above the cockpit area. Does anyone know of any problems this might cause?
It can collect moisture and become sopping wet , wet to the point of dripping and making you think you have a roof leak
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Old 08-18-2012, 01:15 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
I have one more question. I mentioned pushing fiberglass batt insulation into the ceiling above the cockpit area. Does anyone know of any problems this might cause? Does there need to be air space between the roof and the ceiling? Thanks again!

OK, two more questions! Does it matter which way the paper side of the insulation is turned?
Fiberglass fibers can be itchy if it gets into the cockpit. Also, I wouldn't use paper backed insulation, I'd use foil backed to add reflective properties. Rather than use home insulation, look at foil backed auto insulation. Insulation should be installed so that the moisture barrier is towards the heated interior side in usual home installations. Unless you are going to be able to seal the barrier all the way around, I wouldn't use paper backing.
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Old 08-18-2012, 04:07 PM   #24
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Hi, just a couple of points to consider. First, be very careful about expanding foam; there may be some types that are safe, but mostly, when they expand, they will NOT stop. If anything gets in the way, they just break it and expand anyway. If you can be absolutely SURE it's safe, then go ahead, but remember what the insulation is for. The insulation is just to keep air from moving around and transfering heat from one surface to another. Insulating materials simply prevent that air movement. The insulating material itself actually CONDUCTS heat, so more is not better, it's worse.

The same answer goes for packing fibreglas into a cavity. You need just enough to control the air movement. Adding too much just conducts the heat through the glass itself. A two-inch air space is a great insulator. It separates the hot surface -the roof from the cooler surface -the ceiling. Even the foam stuff is a conductor and will conduct more heat than the air space will.

All you really want to do is control the air movement, and to do that you need to break the volume into smaller sections, not pack it full of conducting material.

Yes, I know, when the engineers start lecturing, your eyes glaze over; that's understood. Still, look up the story behind the ski slope in Dubahi. Now they have some serious desert heat to deal with, but they actually have an indoor ski slope. How do they insulate it? Well, they really don't. They have a twelve to fifteen inch thick upper roof a twelve FOOT dead air space and another interior roof. The insulation is the air space, not some packed-in foam or mat. Your coach is not badly designed. If you want to work on it some, go ahead, but don't spend a bunch of money or cause the expanding foam to blow your coach apart.

Just a bit of technical advise.

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Old 08-18-2012, 04:27 PM   #25
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Our insulation reads: Gauze Pad by Johnson&Johnson.
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:13 PM   #26
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Tom is right, except I would add that 'dead air space' is pretty hard to come by in an RV. If the space can be adequately sealed, which is what I'd try doing, then you're good to go.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:47 PM   #27
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Joe, that's not uncommon in motorhomes. There's a thread over at the Tiffin RV Net on the ways that the owner's have put insulation in that dead spot.
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Old 08-19-2012, 12:04 AM   #28
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I would be very careful about spraying foam insulation onto the back of fiberglass. My fear would be that the heat would be absorbed through the fibergalss and then heat the fiberglass from the backside. Could cause some hairline cracking, especially on full body paint.

I stuffed mine with fiberglass and now wonder if that was a good idea. It hasn't really helped the heat situation near the TV components. It may have been better to leave that air space alone and may be why Monaco did it. The heat has been tough on one DirecTV box. On very hot days it would cause it to pixelate (sp). I now have two small computer fans at the back of the DirecTv cabinet (Monaco had installed a vent opening). On trips during hot weather, I run the fans 24/7. I have them drawing the air from the front of the cabinet and out the back. I also point one of the roof A/C vents toward the cabinet opening.
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