Community Forums

brandss · 12-12-2018, 07:54 PM

Wondering if this is okay or shoul I put a 2 x4 under the one side and make it level. If I need to use a 2 x4 what is the process. Get it back to travel mode and start over. Newbie here

Robi.1014 · 12-12-2018, 08:54 PM

When a jack pad is significantly angled (due to non-level campsite), you should consider that the downward-pressure of that jack is also experiencing a sideways pressure in the direction of the slant of the pad. This in turn, applies pressure to the jack shaft (but it probably won't bend) and pressure to the bolts (or welds) that attach that jack to the frame of your rig. Just not desired.

You can lift that one jack if you desire if you think this action will not be "torquing" your rig's chassis, or raise all jacks and start again. And yes: just eyeball the placement of a filler piece of wood (the 2x4 you mention). The wood piece will be mangled to some extent. The jack-pad need not be completely level, however.

FIRE UP · 12-12-2018, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brandss

Wondering if this is okay or shoul I put a 2 x4 under the one side and make it level. If I need to use a 2 x4 what is the process. Get it back to travel mode and start over. Newbie here

brandss,
Leveling is a subject that's been debated on here since Christ was young. Many folks do it in different ways. I'll give you the short version of how I do it. Very simply put, if a site is fairly close to level when I land on it, I'll use our auto leveling system and, that's that. But, if the site is fairly UNLEVEL, I'm not gonna try and make the leveling jacks do all the work. So, out comes my ramps. I drive up on them for the appropriate tires. That, in many cases, will bring the coach to a somewhat level stance.

But, since I've raised the height due to driving up on them, I will bring out blocks FOR THE JACKS so they don't have to travel as far. The less distance those jacks travel, the more stable the coach is when using them. And, if the terrain under any one or more of those jacks is off kilter, I will build up, on the low side, any form of small lumber, gravel, anything so the blocks that are going to support the jacks, will sit LEVEL. And when the jack hits the blocks, they will hit a level block. That will put the least amount of strain on any jack.

If your jack lands on an unlevel or, angled surface, it will want to travel DOWN that unlevel surface. And, in a case like that, the strain on it's mounting system is great. In some cases, the jack will bend or, bend at the mount. What happens then, YOU'RE SCREWED.

So, my advice, for whatever it's worth, always make sure your jacks are going to land on something as level as possible. Good luck.
Scott

ThePowells · 12-12-2018, 11:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FIRE UP

brandss,
Leveling is a subject that's been debated on here since Christ was young. Many folks do it in different ways. I'll give you the short version of how I do it. Very simply put, if a site is fairly close to level when I land on it, I'll use our auto leveling system and, that's that. But, if the site is fairly UNLEVEL, I'm not gonna try and make the leveling jacks do all the work. So, out comes my ramps. I drive up on them for the appropriate tires. That, in many cases, will bring the coach to a somewhat level stance.

But, since I've raised the height due to driving up on them, I will bring out blocks FOR THE JACKS so they don't have to travel as far. The less distance those jacks travel, the more stable the coach is when using them. And, if the terrain under any one or more of those jacks is off kilter, I will build up, on the low side, any form of small lumber, gravel, anything so the blocks that are going to support the jacks, will sit LEVEL. And when the jack hits the blocks, they will hit a level block. That will put the least amount of strain on any jack.

If your jack lands on an unlevel or, angled surface, it will want to travel DOWN that unlevel surface. And, in a case like that, the strain on it's mounting system is great. In some cases, the jack will bend or, bend at the mount. What happens then, YOU'RE SCREWED.

So, my advice, for whatever it's worth, always make sure your jacks are going to land on something as level as possible. Good luck.
Scott

chunker · 12-13-2018, 08:26 AM

I wouldn't consider a 2x4 to be adequate in using to level or stabilize an RV. My smallest wood sections are 2x6 and the pads I put under the jacks are pieces of treated 2x8 sandwiched between 1/2" plywood treated. For other uses around the RV I have pieces of 6X6 that I lay on their side. I also have some 2x10 that I can put under the tires to pre-level in really bad spots. I won't raise a tire off the ground.

norcal01 · 12-13-2018, 05:03 PM

I the same situation last year.
The angle of the ram compressed the seal on that jack and caused it blow out. $600 later jack replaced.
That is when I discovered that one should grease the jack. The hydraulic shop that I took it to said if it had good grease in it, it probably would have been ok.
I always use blocks under my jacks now, both to see what ground surface looks like and to limit the travel.

ftodaro · 12-13-2018, 08:11 PM

I made the mistake one time of putting down my jacks on soft grass, the landing pad went 6 inches down in the mud and got stuck. I have cut several 2x6 x6 wood pads and when i am in an un-level spot I put a few extra pieces of wood under those jack pads to help them get a good foot hold and to help them to get to level, so i do not have to go to the end of their extension. The further you have to extend a jack the more risk that they can be bent or damaged from leverage and stress. so I always look over the situation before I level.