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Old 12-24-2010, 10:20 AM   #1
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Insufficient Heater air flow to back of coach

I have a new Four Winds Serrano. Heater works fine but I cannot seem to get enough air to flow to the floor registers in the bedroom area in the back of the coach. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-24-2010, 11:12 AM   #2
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Use a flashlight and mirror to check for obstructions or a collapse of the duct. Check the alignment and sealing between the heater and duct.
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Old 12-24-2010, 04:23 PM   #3
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That's a very common problem. The ducting to the rear is tortuous, and often not all that well layed. Follow as much of it as you can and eliminate extra duct tubing, straighten bends, etc. as best you can.
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Old 12-25-2010, 09:28 AM   #4
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I replaced all of the registers with a type that have dampers to control airflow so that I could redirect and balance the system. A friend that is a retired HVAC tech had a tool that he called a flow meter that is used to balance HVAC systems. The tool has a small fan that is held in front of the register and gives a digital readout of the CFM. Then it was just a matter of adjusting each damper untill the CFM was equal. It took him about an hour to balance both systems. I was really surprised at how well this simple tool eliminated the hot and cold spots for both the ducted furnace and AC.
He said that he purchased the meter many years ago for just that purpose and over his 30+ year career had only used it an average of once or twice a year because very few were willing to pay for his time to balance their system.
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:48 PM   #5
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I have a new Four Winds Serrano. Heater works fine but I cannot seem to get enough air to flow to the floor registers in the bedroom area in the back of the coach. Any suggestions?
Thats funny because we just got back from our shake down cruise with our 2011 Serrano V31 and one of the problems I had to deal with was to much heat getting to the bedroom. If you remove the louvered panel under the fridge in the V plan you can see all the ducting and the bedroom duct by removing the bottom drawer under the wardrobe. We had an issue with a kink in the duct to the front of the coach. I don't advise blocking any ducts as the this unit pushes out a lot of heat, I measured 220 degrees and this dropped to 205 when I got the duct unkinked. This seems a little hot and I would think getting close to the melting point of the plastic vents. You may want to add another duct and vent to the bedroom, there is available outlet knockouts on the plenum.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:34 AM   #6
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I had a similiar problem. Turned out to be a clog caused by dirt (mud) dobbers.
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Old 02-28-2011, 03:06 PM   #7
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I replaced all of the registers with a type that have dampers to control airflow so that I could redirect and balance the system. .
Can you share with us where you got the registers and what kind they are? I looked for replacement floor registers for our Damon for the same reason but could not locate any that were the same size as the factory installed registers.
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Old 02-28-2011, 04:21 PM   #8
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I have the same problem in reverse, bedroom is warm but the front of Coach does not get much hot air. I closed down the bedroom register and partially closed the one closest to the thermostat. I now get a better balance.

I have to keep the front warm as my Daughter and dog sleep up there on the hide a bed couch. If it gets cold they both jump into bed with me and the wife and they are bed hogs.
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:46 AM   #9
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I made a lot of temp checks while trying different approaches to blocking off ducts and was surprised and uneasy with how much it increased by just blocking off 1/2 of the bedroom duct. I felt safer by adding a duct to balance the system rather then shutting any down. The build up of dust in the ducts as well as all that dry luan plywood just seem to me to be a fire starter. The furnace is between me and the door when I am sleeping and I would rather not worry about having to get out that window.
Just my thoughts
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:14 AM   #10
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Can you share with us where you got the registers and what kind they are? I looked for replacement floor registers for our Damon for the same reason but could not locate any that were the same size as the factory installed registers.
I will see if I can find the mfg. name. I got them in Quartzite. They are round and 5-1/2 in. diameter with adjustable damping.
Ok I found the name and web address. www.dwincorp.com
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:44 AM   #11
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That's a very common problem. The ducting to the rear is tortuous, and often not all that well layed. Follow as much of it as you can and eliminate extra duct tubing, straighten bends, etc. as best you can.
This is the best advice. I recently attended a furnace seminar at Lazy Days and the guy in charge of all their tech's said that the worst thing you could do is close off or restrict any of the other vents.
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Old 03-01-2011, 01:02 PM   #12
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The object is to redirect the flow not restrict it. Its called balancing the system. It can be acomplished in several ways. 1. By reducing or increasing the size of the ductwork. 2. By the use of baffles within the ductwork 3. Damping at the registers.
All forced air furnaces that I am aware of have what is called a sail switch that will shut the furnace down if the airflow is not adequate. The object is to control the direction of flow without restricting the volum. The HVAC tech. that helped me balance my system demonstrated how the sail switch works and how to recognize the sound it makes when too much restriction is applied.
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Old 03-04-2011, 09:23 PM   #13
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The object is to redirect the flow not restrict it. Its called balancing the system. It can be acomplished in several ways. 1. By reducing or increasing the size of the ductwork. 2. By the use of baffles within the ductwork 3. Damping at the registers.
All forced air furnaces that I am aware of have what is called a sail switch that will shut the furnace down if the airflow is not adequate. The object is to control the direction of flow without restricting the volum. The HVAC tech. that helped me balance my system demonstrated how the sail switch works and how to recognize the sound it makes when too much restriction is applied.
I got my Bounder last Aug. I live in it. Before winter came I removed drawers and grills to look at all the ducting I could. I found that the "T" connectors that send some heat to the basements compatments were NOT in there proper holes, and ALL that heat was directed into the blind areas under the cabinets. Wasted heat !!

I fixed all that. Don't know if it came from factory messed up, or possibly last tech working in there blew it.

Those round plastic registars that you can close down & off are great for warming the area you want, but make sure you don't just block off them all.

I can tell/hear that the burner comes on & off during operation, so the sail switch must do that. I figured it was so the burner box does not get TOO hot.

Perhaps there is not enough ducting for the amount of air being pushed thru. What do you think?? I could possibly add more. I have to turn one of the 2 off in the bedroom to get more bathroom heat.

There are 2 ducts going to living room, 2 T's down into basement, & 2 ducts going to bedroom. The air coming out the vents is pretty darn hot.
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Old 03-05-2011, 05:58 AM   #14
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I am not an expert on it but this is the way it was explained to me. The sail switch is there as a safety device to close the gas supply valve to the burner of there is too much restriction in airflow or if for any reason the blower fan fails.
There is an internal control that will turn the burner on and off durring operation to avoid overheat situation.
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