Intellitec 30 amp EMS Controller- -Help

[MrMudstud]

While camping last week and running the front AC, the furnace started blowing and the spark igniter was ticking away. I turn everything off and ran through the switches to make sure the switch was making good contact. Reset the AC back on and about 30 min later the furnace was acting up again. With the EMS controller, you set it on heat or cool but not both at the same time.

Question: What would be the likely problem?

Would it be the board in the controller or the board on the furnace?
Or would it be the switch that needs cleaning or replacing?

I don’t know where to start or how to check it out. Thanks in advance for your help.

[RV Wizard]

If the furnace blower comes on then the control circuit (12vdc) is working on the T'stat/EMS telling the furnace to come on (runs off 12 vdc and LP) Make sure you have good battery voltage and LP is turned on.; more than likely the furnace needs to be serviced (removed and cleaned of debris and rust on the burner). Good luck and keep us posted.

[clyon51]

I really doubt this has anything to do with the EMS as that's just a 120v load shedder. The furnace is totally 12v.

Since the tstat controls the AC and furnace, I would at least start there. Shut AC down and set tstat to run furance to see what happens. It sure sounds doubtful the tstat would turn on both AC and furnace at the same time, but I've seen stranger things.

Failing that, I would suspect a problem at the furnace board. Mice, bugs, water at some point, ect. This sure is a strange problem.

[TLGPE]

I absolutely have NO first-hand knowledge on this subject, but someone on this forum has mentioned that some flourescent light fixtures can cause interference with digital thermostats. If your unit has digital AC and furnace thermostats, try making sure that the near-by lights are off.

As I say, I really don't know, myself.

Tom

[MrMudstud]

Update. Today I entered my enclosed garage and the furnace was blowing. Now- -the LP gas was off and the switch on the T'stat/EMS was OFF. The coach was plugged in and the refrigerator was the only appliance that was on.

When the EMS controller switch is in the Air Conditioner mode or OFF mode, the furnace starts blowing and the igniter is asking for LP gas. This has happened to me 3 times so far that I have experience the furnace coming on. I opened the furnace from the outside panel and it was clean of debris or insects. No, I did not clean it today; it was clean from last year cleaning.

That’s why I believe it is the switch on the EMS controller that is not working properly, or the board on the furnace is not acting correctly.

How does one check either the switch or furnace board to see where the culprit is?
Again, Thanks in advance……….

[RV Wizard]

The furnace will have 2 blue wires and depending on make, may have a white stripe, that are fed to and from the T'stat. Disconnect these from the T'stat to test T'stat. If the furnace still comes on, then you need to do the same at the furnace. If it still fails (starts up) the the board is bad. If not, the 2 blue wires have a short. Good luck and keep us posted.

[Lincolnboy2]

The thermostat is tied in to the temperature sensors in my 2003 Fleetwood Storm, one out in the galley wall and one in the bedroom wall. My intellitec has only one heat, on the left side, while the right side is A/C only. That doesn't help any, but please keep us posted. I have a same year model Fleetwood, not a P/A but still would like to know about this because I think we probably have the same Intellitec system.

[MrMudstud]

Originally Posted by Lincolnboy2

The thermostat is tied in to the temperature sensors in my 2003 Fleetwood Storm, one out in the galley wall and one in the bedroom wall. My intellitec has only one heat, on the left side, while the right side is A/C only. That doesn't help any, but please keep us posted. I have a same year model Fleetwood, not a P/A but still would like to know about this because I think we probably have the same Intellitec system.

Yes Lincolnboy2, we have the same exact Intellitec system.

[MrMudstud]

Update: I forgot to mention that I have an Atwood furnace model no. 8535-IV-DCLP. This morning I followed Mr. RV Wizard advice and disconnected one blue wire that was connected or spliced to the other blue wire at the furnace. That was easier for me than the other steps. I put a small tissue at the vent so if it did come on it would blow the tissue out. Well, this afternoon it was still there, so the fan did not run with the blue wires disconnected.

I went ahead and connected the blue wires, went inside and turned on the heat switch and the fan came on and blew the tissue out. In the next few days when I have time, I will get behind the T'stat panel and disconnect the blue wire and see what happens. I will keep you posted.
Again, Thanks in advance……….

[MrMudstud]

Update: Today I had time to check out the switch. I checked all the wires in the panel and worked the plugs to make sure we had good connections. Put it all back together and sprayed the switch with cleaner and worked it up and down to make good contact.

When I turn on the power (120 and 12 Volts I disconnected all power to make sure there was no spark), the furnace came on when the switch was OFF. I moved to it Heat and it ran for a few minutes and turned off. I ran it through the air conditioner setting it ran well. When I put it on OFF, the furnace came on again. That’s it………bad switch. I went on ebay and bought another one for $183.30. All well, an expensive repair job. When it comes in we will see if all goes well. Wish me luck………..Thanks to all…..

[RV Wizard]

I bet you have a bad ground. Ran into a similar scenario on a new coach and after calling manufacturer tech support we found that a bad ground was causing the problem. Make sure the T'stat has a good ground as well. Added good ground; no more problem.

[MrMudstud]

Update: The part came in and I installed it. When I turned on the rear AC, NOTHING- -I PANIC, I must have a real problem since the new part does not work. Then, I realize that the temperature was set too low. I moved it to 75 and it came on. Let it run for 10 minutes and then turn it off and put the front AC on. It ran for 10 minutes until it was blowing 15 degrees cooler then the temperature in the RV.

Now the big moment, to determine if my troubling shooting prognosis was correct. Turned the AC off and hit the HEAT switch. The heater blower came on ran for a minute and then asked for gas. The flame turned on and I let it run for 10 minutes. I lowered the temperature the flame turned off and the blower blew for 3-4 more minutes. It then turned off, just like in the book. So far all is well.

I was proud of my success that I was walking around the coach with my chest stuck out and strutting around like a big Rooster. What can I say………Thanks to all for the help, especially RV Wizard.

[JimM68]

good job and congrats!!!!

[RV Wizard]

Glad to hear that you have got it fixed. Thanks fot the update.