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Old 03-19-2012, 02:35 PM   #1
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Question interconnect solennoid

no chassis power. no steps,ignition,horn,or stereo. all coach functios o.k. solenoid is hot. no power to "ignition switched" circuits. all fuses circuit breakers and batteries o.k. generator starts so 150 amp breaker o.k. solenoid?

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Old 03-19-2012, 03:23 PM   #2
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Is the hot solenoid the one for your chassis/engine battery? If so, the internal contacts may be bad and it will need replacing.

I take it your battery disconnect switch for the chassis/engine battery is ON.

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Old 03-20-2012, 04:04 AM   #3
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Put volt meter across the solenoid. If you have 0 volts the contacts are closed. Otherwise the contacts in the solenoid are open. Check the control circuit for the solenoid to verify power and good ground path are supplied to solenoid. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:03 AM   #4
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I think they mean 0 ohms if across the solenoid closed contacts. Volts across the contacts may be open or closed and still read 0.

Sounds like the genny starts off the coach batteries and that the chassis solenoid/disconnect switch is off (different than the bird isolator solenoid) or not working if the chassis batteries are in good shape as stated.
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:14 AM   #5
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Speaking from experience, it is generally not a good idea to use the ohm scale on a multimeter when you first check a set of contacts......unless you have the item in your hand (disconnected from any voltage sources first). If you have a spare multimeter I suppose it would be Ok . Although some more expensive multimeters do come with an internal fuse ...........,

Not that it was suggested....Im just sayin................
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:28 AM   #6
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Good point (taken) - thanks.

Our home has a coach battery disconnect relay, a coach/chassis battery isolator relay, AND a rotary switch for disconecting the chassis batteries.

This may be a place to start by looking for a rotary switch if all the fuses check.
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:39 AM   #7
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Old 03-20-2012, 05:44 AM   #8
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The interconnect solenoid is not needed to power chassis loads on the fuse panel. The solenoid just provides a path to connect the two battery systems.
Chassis power comes into the fuse panel and is distributed and the interconnect solenoid is not required to do this.
If you have a one amp fuse on the fuse panel that is the one that is in the circuit for interconnect solenoid control power. If you pull it the solenoid will be disconnected, then you can figure out where you have a connection from the chassis battery that is not is not making good connection. If I remember correctly there is a strap on the chassis side of the solenoid where the cable connects that takes the chassis power to the fuse panel. Somewhere the chassis power is not getting to the fuse panel.
Take both battery system positive cables off when mucking around with the fuse panel and solenoids, to easy to ground something out with a wrench, ring or screwdriver.
Feel the bolts that go through the fuse panel to see if any of them are warm.
If you are plugged into shore power the solenoid should be powered and warm. When you unplug it will take a while for the solenoid to disconnect on its own. you can turn on the map light and a light in the coach to drain surface charge off the batteries so the solenoid will disconnect.
Most RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered.
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:28 AM   #9
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I am in total agreement with Garym114. That solenoid should have nothing to do with chassis power. All those solenoids run hot because they have power through the coild of an electromagnetic coil. The problem is either you main chassis power disconnect switch is off or bad OR your chassis batteries are bad and run down OR a battery cable either positive or negative is bad at one end or the other.

Start troubleshooting by checking your chassis battery voltage with a voltmeter and see if you have 12 volts or more.
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:35 PM   #10
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Start at your chassis battery and follow the positive lead to the battery control center. Start troubleshooting there.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:31 AM   #11
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UPDATE. Sorry I have not posted sooner but I caught "bug" that kept me down for a week. Rechecked my chassis voltage and lo and behold low voltage-oops. I see a Trikl-Start in my future. Thanks to all for help. What a great resouce this forum is!

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