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Old 11-19-2013, 07:19 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Mike_Harriet View Post
Just had a friend with the same problem(caused by a bad neutral contact on power cord). If you take the cover off the inverter, make sure no power, there are 4 fuses I on two different boards. Two are 25a blade, and on the control board are two 250vdc/250mA glass fuses which control the incoming power sense circuit (among other functions). Both looked good, but one read bad. Found new ones At Radio Shack. Problem solved. Did have to repair cable plug at pedestal.
When I had it opened up I did see two small glass fuses but I didn't see any blade type fuses. The glass ones appeared good visually but I think I will open it up and pull those fuses and test them with a meter. I have seen other fuses look good and test bad. I should have done it when I had the cover off last time but the little boogers looked hard to get to.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:44 AM   #16
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The two blade fuses on ours are located near the front. They sit flat against the circuit board, and are tan in color. Should be just past the front cover, and a little to the right of center. They have 25A on the side facing up toward you.
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:00 PM   #17
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I've been pretty busy with other things but finally got around to opening up the inverter again. I looked all over and never could find any blade type fuses. I did remove and test the two glass fuses which were good. The unit still works it just will not pass through the 120V from shore or generator unless the switch is turned on so for now I think I will devote my time and money to other things. Thanks for everyone's help and I will update again whenever I install a new one.
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Old 12-19-2013, 04:31 PM   #18
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I've got a 93 Navigator with the same generator. It has 40 amp main breakers that feed the transfer switch.

Based on what you described, I'd say check the wires inside your transfer switch. I'm guessing you have the same model as mine. I had to replace mine a couple of years ago. The internal wiring on the generator side was undersized and one of the leads had burned through.

In your case an undersized wire would restrict amperage going to you main panel. On the main panel you should have a 30amp breaker feeding the inverter/charger. My guess is a partially burned wire in you transfer switch is choking off the amperage to something less than 30amps.
BTW... I replaced my transfer switch with the same make and model... And guess what... The new version had heavier Gauge wires.

.... yea but that's 40 amps at 120 VAC which is WAY over 70 amps at 12VDC - 7 amps @120 VAC to be exact. Nowhere near the 40 amp leg capacity and drawing more than 40 amps would trip the breaker not provide less power. I'd check the frequency and voltage of the generator under load. It could be providing crap power the more delicate charge controller cant / wont accept.

If the load is there the generator will provide it and the device will consume, the smaller wires will just get hot. The smaller wires in place may just have insulation rated for a higher temperature than the new transfer switch. Bigger wires make differences with DC loads and low voltages (like 12 vdc)
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:57 PM   #19
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.... The smaller wires in place may just have insulation rated for a higher temperature than the new transfer switch. Bigger wires make differences with DC loads and low voltages (like 12 vdc)
Really? You don't think there's any voltage drop with ac over too small wires?
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Old 12-19-2013, 10:12 PM   #20
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I have looked inside the main transfer switch (not the inverter pass through transfer) and everything looks to be fine there. I don't have a frequency meter but did check AC voltage on both legs of the generator and it was fine. That was a while back when I first started this troubleshooting so I don't remember the exact voltage. I think it was right on 120 and 240 measured leg to leg. I think as long as the generator RPM is correct at 1800 for this fixed speed unit that the frequency would have to be 60hz.
I really think my problem is what one poster was leading to about the inverter's internal sensing of incoming AC power. It seems to me that if the transfer switch was the problem the inverter/charger would act up regardless of whether its power switch was on or off but it only has problems with the switch off. I will be more specific. Switch located on inv housing OFF and remote panel switch also OFF results in problem. Inv housing switch OFF and remote switch ON results in no problem. The inverter manual states that the switch on the unit should always remain OFF when a remote panel is installed.
So far this problem has not been a show stopper. I just have to remember to turn on the remote switch when plugged in to shore. I keep the motorhome plugged in at home to keep the batteries charged and keep the Samsung cold. The problem with leaving the inverter switch on is that if we had a utility power failure the batteries would drain down to the inverter low voltage cut-off. Still no big deal but I would rather not run the batteries down that low. I also suspect I would notice that it's dark and cold in the stick house and could go turn off the inverter or just go camping.
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:15 AM   #21
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Really? You don't think there's any voltage drop with ac over too small wires?

Very little at 120 vac especially with short wires as on an RV. How long can the wire be? 40'? - IN that respect, no I dont think the voltage drop can be a problem. Especially at 30-40 amps, you can run 30 amps all day long through a 14/2, the load will be fine, the wire will just warm up a bit, with a 50' cable there might be 119 vac at the end...

That's why utilities use 25,000 volt distribution and tiny overhead wires that carry thousands of amps, crank up the voltage and the cable loss drops.

And its not me thinking... it's science
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Old 12-20-2013, 09:29 AM   #22
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You have described the operation of a thermal self-resetting circuit breaker rather well.

Many times an owner or prior owner will upgrade the converter, but NOT the wiring nor the circuit breaker. So you take out say a 45 amp converter and put in a 100, But the breaker will trip at 45.

Another possible issue is heat.. If the converter has been there a while dust and such will have built up on the heat sinks and the unit may be shutting down due to heat, then cooling off, till enough energy is back in the batteries to keep the draw down to the point it can hang in there.

The above assumes a stand alone converter, not an inverter/charger combo .

On an inverter/charger combo, other loads may be cutting in and the charger may have a "Maximum 120vac draw" function like mine does.

I set it to 30 amps and as the appliances to which it is passing power draw more and more, it throttles down to keep the total to less than 27 amps. Thus protecting its input breaker.
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:59 AM   #23
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You have described the operation of a thermal self-resetting circuit breaker rather well.

Many times an owner or prior owner will upgrade the converter, but NOT the wiring nor the circuit breaker. So you take out say a 45 amp converter and put in a 100, But the breaker will trip at 45.

Another possible issue is heat.. If the converter has been there a while dust and such will have built up on the heat sinks and the unit may be shutting down due to heat, then cooling off, till enough energy is back in the batteries to keep the draw down to the point it can hang in there.

The above assumes a stand alone converter, not an inverter/charger combo .

On an inverter/charger combo, other loads may be cutting in and the charger may have a "Maximum 120vac draw" function like mine does.

I set it to 30 amps and as the appliances to which it is passing power draw more and more, it throttles down to keep the total to less than 27 amps. Thus protecting its input breaker.
I agree with your idea of a self resetting breaker but I am not aware of any on this unit. it has three manual breakers on the front.
I am familiar with the current limiting function you describe but that function is disabled by way of DIP switches on the back of the remote panel.
The charger only cuts out when the remote switch is off. When switch is on it does not cut out and I have seen at least 100 amps output on the remote panel.
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