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Old 04-24-2019, 02:03 PM   #1
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Is 200 amp battery diode type isolator enough

95 crow royale DP 400hp
Found a triple jumper on Diode type isolator. So I am going to assume its no good . Seen some smart isolators but had enough bad reviews to pass. A 240 amp about double the price.Click image for larger version

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Old 04-24-2019, 02:28 PM   #2
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I have an 160 amp alternator and have used both of these.

https://baymarinesupply.com/electric...combiners.html
https://www.bluesea.com/products/761...12_24V_DC_120A
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Foretravel tag axle 40 ft. 500 hp/1550 ft/lbs ism 1455 watts on the roof. 600 a/h's lithium down below.
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Old 04-24-2019, 03:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcussen View Post
Don't they do the same thing?
I like the way these have no voltage drop . How to use those only have two lugs. I would use solinoid type to combine cranking as its huge.
The lug area looks a bit small for huge cables all over the rig. Maybe 240 amp not a bad price either.
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Old 04-24-2019, 03:52 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 153stars View Post
Don't they do the same thing?
I like the way these have no voltage drop . I guess I would combine chassis and alternator together as those only have two lugs. I would use solinoid type to combine cranking as its huge.
The Victron unit comes in aa 240 amp model if he needs that much. Combiner will not connect banks in a starting situation.
Seeing it is a 95, he may have a seperate "boost" solenoid that combines both banks if he needs help in starting.
I just connected alternator and start battery on one lug, and house hattery on the other. The nice thing about combiners is that they are bidirectional, so if you are charging house batteries, start batteries will also be charging.
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Old 04-24-2019, 04:55 PM   #5
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The picture supplied shows the boost solenoid right below the isolator.

With all of the cabling in place, a Blue Sea solenoid can be swapped in place of the old boost solenoid.

The only other thing that would be needed to do is place the wire from the center of the isolator ( It's the alternator output ) to the chassis side of the new combiner.

This may not be for a novice but if you understand what you have, its not to bad an upgrade.

Another thought, if the alternator has been replaced with a non-Dulvac type, that may be why the isolator is jumped. A self exciting alternator will not work with an isolator.
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Old 04-24-2019, 05:30 PM   #6
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Thanks I did not know that but I have read about the swap.
The far right unused lug is for exiter right...couldn't I just jump it to center lug. And not have this battery balancing jumper in place my guess it could get hot. I starting batts. Not up to task
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Old 04-24-2019, 05:42 PM   #7
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I have more closely read your statement. If I used to battery combined it will replace both the units all in one charge the house batts when chassis are full and combine for boost
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Old 04-24-2019, 05:55 PM   #8
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Maybe the old iso. was good and they should of jumped exciter lug to center lug. All my batteries are now kinda combined now . I don't like that.

I'm surprised I haven't run across this in 2to3 years of lurking.

Upgrade... to not loose .7v charge from what I have read.

Disconnect batteries

Remove bare jumper

Remove old solinoid

Secure new unit

Hook up cables to new lugs

Add jumper center of old isolator to chassis side.

Cut off loops on magnet side wires add staycon spades

Connect to boost spades of new unit.
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Old 04-24-2019, 06:21 PM   #9
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Not sure if you can tell alternator is non typeClick image for larger version

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Old 04-25-2019, 12:25 PM   #10
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What's the amperage rating of the alternator being used? That will dictate the size isolator you'll require. And if the isolator has heat sinks built in, it sucks...get a better isolator.
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