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Old 07-16-2019, 07:22 PM   #15
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I don't know your sizes but you could consider a mixed bag. Pour a 6" in the center where wheels run and 4" on the sides. I would also double the rebar and see if you can find a specification for your weights to follow.
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Old 07-16-2019, 07:24 PM   #16
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In case you REALLY want to get into the calculations:


https://www.buildingsguide.com/calcu...ctural/FCSGSG/
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Old 07-16-2019, 08:07 PM   #17
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Our coach is 50,000 lbs. We built our garage 7 years ago with 4” concrete and we don’t have any cracks whatsoever.
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Old 07-16-2019, 08:26 PM   #18
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If you are getting quotes you will see it is not much more in cost to go from 4" to 6".
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Old 07-16-2019, 08:53 PM   #19
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What is under the concrete is as important as the thickness of the concrete. In fact the ground under the concrete will dictate the thickness of the concrete and how much rebar and or mesh is used.
My pole barn floor is 6" deep fiberglass reinforced concrete and the outside footer is 12" deep and 24" wide tapering to 6" for the main floor.
Grindstone 01 made a good point. Have the floor finished with a power floating screed to get the floor as smooth as possible. The broom finish is for those who don't know how to finish concrete or are too lazy to do the job right.
There are contractors out there who specialize in doing concrete work. I would suggest you hire one and get it done right the first time.
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:33 PM   #20
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Make sure they use a 5 sack mix, not 4 sack. Contractors are known to pour the cheaper 4 sack mix and pocket the extra money. 4 sack concrete will NOT be able to handle the weight.
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Old 07-16-2019, 10:12 PM   #21
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I just had my driveway widened by 10' to hold a 22,000 motorhome. I set the spec at 30,000 pounds and 6". The concrete guy felt better at 7" and with fiber added. I asked for rebar and wire mesh as well. This raised the price about a thousand dollars for a 94' driveway.

So now where I screwed up. I did not do enough research to know that the rebar and wire mesh should be on "chairs" and positioned in the middle of the pour. The wire mesh is at the bottom lying on the gravel base so that was a waste of money. They pulled the rebar up during the pour to get it more to the center but I should have had them double the amount they used. The chairs would have assured center vertical positioning. Pulling it up manually is marginal at best for assuring proper positioning.

Since the rebar and wire mesh's job is to hold things together in the event a crack occurs they really need to be as close to the center vertically as possible. Some people say you do not need wire mesh or rebar if you use fiber but I just felt better having it added.

He used a six and a half sack pour which he said is 4,500 psi. We waited the full 28 days even though he used additives to retain the water and said we could use it after 14 days.

As someone else noted, the base (what is under the concrete) is the most important part. Your soil composition and weather (do you have freezing weather or not, is it hard or sandy, etc.) all play a part in how the base is designed. If the base is poor it doesn't really matter how thick the concrete is. Adding more concrete can deform the ground under the concrete more.

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Old 07-16-2019, 11:09 PM   #22
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That's heavy for a non tag MH!
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Old 07-16-2019, 11:20 PM   #23
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I went 6-8” for my MH and two 4 post lifts for hot rods. Shops been done for 3 years and no problems yet.
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Old 07-17-2019, 05:54 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sinterior View Post
That's heavy for a non tag MH!
His next MH might be. Better to over build than be disappointed later.
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:14 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Unicorn Driver View Post
Just did a pad for my 23000lb coach. Contractor poured 5 inches with rebar mesh.

My contractor swore that 4 inch was plenty after good site compaction and floated rebar. Haven't had a crack in two years with 22K motorhome.
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:36 AM   #26
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There's a cautionary tale regarding the importance of proper soils engineering in what happened this past week to US Hwy 36 eastbound between Denver and Boulder. The road was rebuilt and paved with concrete just a year or so ago. A nearby huge shopping mall development has terrible washboard roads which aren't too bad in a car but it's like riding a bucking bronco driving a big Class A, a city bus or a school bus.
https://www.thedenverchannel.com/new...eps-in-rebuild
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:44 AM   #27
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I have 6" slab with no base (poured directly on to FL soil) done before I even thought I would ever own an RV. It was fine for cars/pickup for ten years, but cracked under weight of my RV.

You want 6 inches of "compacted base material", then your 4 (reinforced) or 6 inches of concrete.
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Old 07-17-2019, 08:56 AM   #28
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What ever you do plan for the future! I originally used the grass blocks in my yard to park my 23'TT and then 17' Type B MH. Now I have a 45', 52,000# MH. The blocks have long ago turned to rubble as has my standard contractor grade driveway slab.
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