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Old 07-19-2015, 07:47 AM   #15
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Now that you know if the house batteries are too low the alternator will not be allowed to charge house batteries won't a simple fix be just to run the generator for a while and let the converter bring the house batteries up to a level that will allow the alternator to finish charging the house batteries ?
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:52 PM   #16
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When dry camping if you can run the generator a couple of hours each day and then for several hours or the length of time getting home things should be fine. Alternators are not designed to fill banks of batteries. Can they do it? Yes and many people end up replacing the alternator before its time,.
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Old 07-19-2015, 09:04 PM   #17
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hotseer,
Glad you got your problem figured out. As to alternator size, I wouldn't think 150amp is correct for a MH? My 450 has a 200amp on it, would figure a MH would be bigger in output. But have never owned a MH, so I am just wondering.
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:56 AM   #18
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I had problems with the signal not sending it's message to the solonoid and after several trips to the dealer the problem kept returning. My solution was a beer cap wedged under the boost switch while driving. Have been using this method succesfully for years now.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:33 AM   #19
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WOW! Hard way to learn THIS lesson..just amazed that not one tech at 3 dealerships, a service manager and a tech from Winnebago and not one knew this? Like I am the FIRST person to deal with this issue? Looks like my little Honda 1000 and my Diehard charger will get some dry camp time in...thanks to all..
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Old 07-22-2015, 05:13 PM   #20
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Your little honda might be able to keep up with your on board charger IF you don't let the batteries get to low. Run the Honda an hour in the am and an hour in the pm and you should be able to keep up for several days. IF you let the batteries get really low the on board charger may overload the Honda. Take the Honda off the eco mode when you first plug things in. If things are purring along then flip the switch to the eco mode. When you hear the generator slow down you will know things are filling up,.
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:06 AM   #21
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One would think that in these days of big coaches with multiple banks of batteries, residential fridges, multiple TV and entertainment packages, larger inverters, that these "smart isolation managers" would be made to put a soft charge on the batteries until it senses the full charge of the alternator could be administered! when we were looking last year for a new motorhome we saw a bunch of them with residential fridges on them. those dealers told us that they added two or three more batteries to the two that came with the house to run the inverter for those fridges. I wonder how those guys deal with this issue! glad I got a propane fridge and tuned up my Honda 1000!
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:33 AM   #22
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Myron (YC1) Thanks for the good advice, yes I found that out the hard way! It popped the overload on my Honda several times but so far it wasn't my on board charger, it was a few other things I hadn't thought about. First for some weird reason it keeps trying to turn on our washer/dryer when we run the Honda. So I just flip off the AC breaker to that..later another mystery pop..ready for this? We found out that our propane/ AC fridge only runs the icemaker when plugged into shore power! So off went that AC breaker.. with those two off it seems to do real good and yes I DO start it with that slow eco switch off until things settle in. I think its pretty much at full tilt w on board charger because while the Honda is running the volt meter is showing 14.4 volts. I have ALSO bought a Sears Die Hard 110 volt battery charger that has a 30 AMP charge selection on it. After a bit of research I found that it holds the 30 Amps longer for heavy charging before it cycles down to a lower charge then into a maintain mode. Im not sure though if it is better to use the house charger or the portable since I don't know how many AMPS the house charges with and for how long.. Its a shame these coaches don't have AMP meters that would show both the draw and the charging amps going in...safe travels, thanks, Dave
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:38 AM   #23
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Myron, and by the way, how do you like your Ford Edge? I take it since its a Limited that its an auto trans, right? Does it have a neutral trans disconnect in the transfer case? Does it tow well? We are having a hard time finding a flat tow car...d
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:25 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotseer View Post
Myron, and by the way, how do you like your Ford Edge? I take it since its a Limited that its an auto trans, right? Does it have a neutral trans disconnect in the transfer case? Does it tow well? We are having a hard time finding a flat tow car...d

The Limited has keyless entry, keyless ignition, and you only put it in neutral to tow it. No disconnects needed. You should consider a charge line though because they are power hungry with the (key), in the accessory position.

There are rv's with amp meters. I can actually set the charging percentage on my charger and there is a meter to watch the charging current.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:47 AM   #25
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Hi Myron, is that charger you can set the charge rate on a charger you put in or is it one that came with the motorhome? who is it made by? And to put in my own amp meter wouldn't I have to put it in between ALL of my batteries and the accessories ?(load)
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Old 07-30-2015, 05:17 AM   #26
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Hi Myron, is that charger you can set the charge rate on a charger you put in or is it one that came with the motorhome? who is it made by? And to put in my own amp meter wouldn't I have to put it in between ALL of my batteries and the accessories ?(load)

It is part of the factory system. Made by Magnum I think. Not something you would want to retrofit. If you want to measure DC current just buy a clamp on meter and then you have a voltmeter and amp meter that is portable.


Many folks don't understand amps and volts so adding the expensive parts on every rv is not feasible.
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