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Old 07-03-2012, 09:47 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by vincee View Post
Oh so tough it is "camping" when the converstion turns to ice or no ice from the automatic on board ice makers.
It is really a stupid for me to worry about an ice maker when I don't have a water softener to get my water useable in my ice maker.

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Old 07-03-2012, 11:11 AM   #16
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Kinda defeats the purpose of my original question.

Appreciate all the answers regarding it.


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Old 07-03-2012, 11:19 AM   #17
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Don't have a Norcold but have never had any problem with both a/c's running and the fridge (Dometic) on going down the road.
Steve & Sally / HiTee & Hudson Our Little Poms / Heidi & Houston Forever in our Hearts
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:38 AM   #18
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One tip on the AC's, picked up from another board a few years back. If your two units are ducted together, you might look at closing off the door to the back area. Close all of the vents in the back area, but then run the rear AC unit. This forces the air to the front via the ducts, but you don't have all of the fan noise while driving.

If it is really hot, and too much for the rear going thru the ducts to maintain. You can always turn on both, or maybe just try the front unit.

Also, when you get within 30-45 mins of your stopping point, go ahead and open the rear vents and run both AC's, to get the rear living area cooled down too...

We found that this works well for us. And very seldom need to run both AC's while driving. Each coach is different. Much quieter up front while driving, without the front AC fan running.

Best of luck, be safe, and have fun,
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:13 PM   #19
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With a DP, the rear area will never get cool as long as the engine is running. If possible, close off the rear portion of the coach to isolate the engine heat and run the front AC and dash air if needed. We tend to turn our rear unit on about an hour before we get to our destination for the night. Try not to open our rear closet doors until absolutely necessary to isolate the engine heat as long as possible. The AUX on the fridge is just as described above, it selects which power source it will use. On the genset it will run on AC.
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:51 PM   #20
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Unless your rig is new, I would suggest bringing along 2 extra fuel filters, an air filter and an extra fan belt for your generator. We had to change our fuel filter twice last summer on our first trip on our "new to us" pusher. The fuel lines are clean now and we love the ac! Don't forget yours probably won't work if your fuel tank is less than 1/4. Have fun!
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Old 07-05-2012, 02:59 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by daveshan View Post
Most likely the icemaker's motor and fill solenoid are 120v.
Exactly right.
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:07 PM   #22
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The first thing is do not close any a/c supply vents that causes back pressure in the duct system starting a leak or a split, and puts a load on the blower motor.

Your a/c system was designed and spec. For all the vents to be open.

My norcold frig. Will make ice with gen set on, the solenoid is 110vac, which your gen set is making, you will have to have your water pump on and water in your tank to fill tray, and fill arm down.
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:08 PM   #23
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If you have a Caterpillar, expect it to overheat on long up grades. Downshift manually to keep you RPM's above 2,000 if it does. No problem running the Genset, enjoy the trip.
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Old 07-08-2012, 12:13 PM   #24
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Take a tip from somebody that's been there. I always leave my Norcold on AU (auto) because someday you will forget to switch it to lp and you won't realize it until you stop aand start to setup. And I'll guarantee you it will never catch back up in this heat.
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:55 PM   #25
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I appreciate all the responses.

Got into Charleston this afternoon. Ran the genset the whole way with the front a/c on and the fridge on. Took the offered advice and turned on the rear a/c about an hour before stopping. That really helped in this heat.
Had issues with the dash air: sometimes blowing cold and most times just blowing warm air. Tried putting a can of 134a in it but wouldn't take it so not sure what that issue is but do know it has to be fixed before heading back.
I have been really impressed with the Cat engine and how it has handled the hills (mtns) without heating up. Pulled the Dakota toad + running the genset and averaged 8.91mpg. Had to recalculate that a couple of times to make sure I wasn't seeing things.

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Old 07-19-2012, 01:02 PM   #26
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Just got home. 2150 miles and ran the gennie the whole time while driving + the front ac and dash air. Problems with the dash air and blew a capacitor couple days ago on the front air. Had a mobile rv tech fix that as I could not locate one in the area. He told me the reason it blew is that I was running the ac on low all the time and it will sometimes blow a capacitor or compressor doing that. I said ok but had never heard that before. Anyway, it's working now. Good learning trip and the CAT pulled the Smokies well. Haven't figured final mpg with gennie running and pulling the Dakota but will calculate it out tonight.
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Old 07-19-2012, 02:30 PM   #27
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You may want to see if your fridge is wired through your inverter for 120v. If so, you want to be careful that you don't have the fridge in auto, the inverter in standby, and then get somewhere and shut down the generator -- that will leave the fridge on 120v pulling from your house batteries through the inverter. Not an issue for a few hours, but depending upon your house batteries, you can get yourself into trouble...

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Old 07-20-2012, 08:23 AM   #28
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Your frig will stay cool a long time. I don't know how long you're planning on driving each day but you can just turn it off while on the road. Refrigerators will have a diminished life if they are run while they are not level. We turn ours off for 4-6 hours while driving and turn it back on when we're set up and level. The worst that has happened is the refrigerator defrosts it self. Just remember to turn it back on when you stop.

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