Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-28-2015, 12:32 PM   #1
Member
 
Hawaii Dick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 66
Itasca Meridian 36G in the

Just bought this lightly used 06 model. We are having problems with the central heating/cooling system. Can't seem to get the heat pump to work and in the propane mode only the rear of the coach gets heated.
__________________

__________________
Hawaii Dick is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 02-28-2015, 01:53 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
dvmweb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MI
Posts: 982
Itasca Meridian 36G in the

Outdoor temps? Our heat pump works with electricity down to only about 40 deg F. Propane kicks in if much colder.

You checked breakers and fuses, of course?

Two furnaces? Two ac's?

Does everything have power? 12 v and/or 110 v?

One set of switches, one for front and one for rear, or one panel?


2013 FleetWood Expedition 38B
__________________

__________________
dvmweb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2015, 02:20 PM   #3
Member
 
Hawaii Dick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 66
One central unit one control for the entire coach. Heat vents on the floor ac ducts on the ceiling. No ac on the roof. I did not check the fuses but everything turns on and off.
__________________
Hawaii Dick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2015, 02:24 PM   #4
Member
 
Hawaii Dick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 66
Outdoor temps 50's
__________________
Hawaii Dick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2015, 02:35 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Carmel, Indiana
Posts: 287
The A/C and heat pump is your one main unit and it ventilates thru all the vents on the ceiling throughout the coach. If the out side temp is so low that the heat pump will not function (generally below 40 degrees) or if you are asking for a temperature rise of more than 2 degrees inside the motor home, the system will automatically turn on the propane furnace until the requested temperature is reached. The propane furnace runs thru the vents on the floor, so make sure all the vents in the front of the coach are not covered up.

If you are not getting air flow from all of the vents in the ceiling when the A/C heat pump is running, then you have had something blocking the ducting. This same blockage would also be blocking the air flow if you were running the A/C. You can check this by turning the thermostat to A/C and turn the fan switch to on and see where you have air flow.
__________________
Clayton
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G
Cat 350
CWHTRAINS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2015, 11:21 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
FIRE UP's Avatar


 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Out there, somewhere
Posts: 5,277
Quote:
Originally Posted by CWHTRAINS View Post
The A/C and heat pump is your one main unit and it ventilates thru all the vents on the ceiling throughout the coach. If the out side temp is so low that the heat pump will not function (generally below 40 degrees) or if you are asking for a temperature rise of more than 2 degrees inside the motor home, the system will automatically turn on the propane furnace until the requested temperature is reached. The propane furnace runs thru the vents on the floor, so make sure all the vents in the front of the coach are not covered up.

If you are not getting air flow from all of the vents in the ceiling when the A/C heat pump is running, then you have had something blocking the ducting. This same blockage would also be blocking the air flow if you were running the A/C. You can check this by turning the thermostat to A/C and turn the fan switch to on and see where you have air flow.
Very good answer,
I was getting ready to say the exact same thing but, you beat me to it. Nice explanation.
Scott
__________________
2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '08 GL 1800 Gold Wing
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
FIRE UP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2015, 08:38 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Carmel, Indiana
Posts: 287
The other thing is if you find you have reduced to no airflow in the front ceiling vents, check the duct work (primarily the seams) that are exposed to the outside and goes up to the ceiling area. You can see these by looking up from the bottom of the motorhome and above the right side engine area.

There have been a number of known instances where the tape that seals the seams has failed and leaves a wide crack which results in significant air leakage when using the a/c heat pump unit. If you search the Winnebago forum here I think there are some threads with photos showing how people fixed it.
__________________
Clayton
2006 Winnebago Journey 36G
Cat 350
CWHTRAINS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2015, 09:04 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Pelledan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 333
x2 that the heat pump mode is only good down to about 40 degrees. That engagement can be electrically witnessed if the generator is running. Note the power consumption (amps) on the panel with the genny running, and turn on the heat pump. You will see an initial spike to around 12 amps as the first of 2 compressors starts. About 20-30 seconds later, the second compressor will kick in and the power consumption will level off at about 22-24 amps. Again, the heat from the heat pumps will come out of the ceiling vents, not the floor. As one poster noted, these models use a ducting system that goes up the back of the RV. That ducting is used for the heat pump and A/C. I've enclosed a pix from another member of this forum who had the rear cap removed for some body work. The ducting is clearly visible. However in propane heat mode, the heat comes from the floor vents. The blower will start immediately and air should come out of all floor vents. It takes a few seconds before "heated" air can be felt at the vents as the furnace does not have a pre-heat cycle before the blower comes on. If air is only felt in the bedroom, then yes, there is something in the ducting that has blocked the air from going forward to the other floor vents.
Dan
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Rear Duct work.jpg
Views:	56
Size:	123.9 KB
ID:	87443  
__________________
2006 Winnebago Journey 36GSE; 2014 CRV; Blue Ox; SMI AF-1
Pelledan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2015, 12:07 PM   #9
Member
 
Hawaii Dick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 66
Smile Thank You All!

I now have a much better idea of how the central unit functions. I didn't know that the heat pump sent heat from the ceiling vents. I thought that something was wrong when air came from the ceiling when I turned the heat pump on.
Again, thanks and Aloha.
__________________
Hawaii Dick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2015, 03:47 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Kiwi's Avatar
 
LA Gulf Coast Campers
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Picayune, MS (New Orleans)
Posts: 423
I had the 36G. Great pantry, but lousy AC. As previously stated, there is ONE main duct from the basement air that goes up the rear of the coach. There is only ONE A/C air handler system -- but two compressors. Jus turn on the AC fan to ON and you should get air from all ceiling vents regardless the outside temp. When it is above 40 (mine ran down to 35) and you turn on the HeatPump it is the same unit. It just runs one direction for AC and reverses the cycle for Heat. You only get both compressors if you have 50 amp service. If no air flow the rear duct is open. Lift your outside engine hatch and stick your hand up under the cap on the passenger side, you will feel the leaked air there. Probably will have to remove the rear cap to fix it. If blown, get them to order a metal duct and not that duct board thing that Winne uses.

Your furnace is fired by propane and there is only one. It comes out of your floor vents. The vents can be opened and closed. Turn it on and check air flow. The entire coach is heated well by one furnace. When under way, your dash engine heater also puts out heat.

Because of this problem, my next rig will not have basement air.
__________________
36' Itasca Meridian DP, now 2005 Newmar Scottsdale 34' Gas
Kiwi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2015, 09:03 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
GREGORYJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba
Posts: 332
I agree with CDWTRAINS but I find our heat pump trigger temperature to be 4 degrees F. So to trick the heat pump to start instead of the gas furnace if the inside air temp is 50 F for example , I will set the thermostat at 53 F. The heat pump will start running and start to heat the RV. When the temp gets up to 53 F, I turn up the thermostat another 3 degrees or maybe even 4 degrees this time as warm air is now blowing out the ducts. I'll keep doing this in steps of 4 degrees above the current room temperature until the inside is up to the desired temp. This of coarse saves on LP gas by using electricity instead to heat the RV in the morning for example. Once heated, the thermostat & heat pump will keep it at the set temperature. As mentioned, the outside air temperature can't be too cold, say 40 F or warmer.
__________________
Ellen & Greg
08 National Dolphin DL-35Ci
Workhorse W22 FMCA # F431548
GREGORYJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2015, 09:22 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Billinwoodla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 124
Just wondering if everything worked during the PDI?
__________________
Billinwoodla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2015, 09:26 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Pelledan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 333
The heat pump's temperature limitations are in part mechanical and also by design. The compressors contain a special lubricant that is compatible with the refrigerant and lubricates the compressor's rotating parts as it runs. At temps below 40, that oil may begin to thicken to the point where it may not be as effective as well as the general efficiency of the heat pump begins to deteriorate below 40. Also once the temps go down to 32, the risk of freezing begins and the heat pumps do not have the ducting required to heat the holding tanks, so the furnace must take over to perform that function. Regardless of heating or cooling, those compressors run during the process. IMHO, you would be better served by heating with a small electric space heater if need be. That alone will extend the service life of the compressors by not using their heat pump function.
Dan
__________________
2006 Winnebago Journey 36GSE; 2014 CRV; Blue Ox; SMI AF-1
Pelledan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2015, 02:07 PM   #14
Member
 
Hawaii Dick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 66
Thanks again. I now have a much better understanding of the heat pump. I liked the idea of not having a roof air over the bedroom as my Safari Simba did. We could not sleep with it on-too noisy. The other question I have for you folks with 36G's is, is it normal to hear a slight clunk in the front brakes when applied? The dealer said this normal but I want to be sure.
__________________

__________________
Hawaii Dick is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
itasca



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2005 Itasca Meridian Solenoid airjunky Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 3 09-26-2014 08:30 AM
Itasca Meridian '06 36G - FW Tank Location? wddogger Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 5 07-05-2014 04:21 PM
2004 Meridian Itasca power question? rlamustang Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 12 05-10-2014 10:01 PM
2004 Meridian 36G "real weight" rlamustang Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 5 03-20-2014 08:09 PM
2014 Winnebago Journey and the Itasca Meridian DriVer RV Industry Press 0 09-04-2013 09:04 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.