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Old 06-10-2013, 03:38 PM   #1
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Jack to lift motorhome

I have a 97 32 Holiday Rambler Vacationer on a Ford F53 Chasis. The front brakes are frozen - again! I'm more than a little PO'd about this after paying a dealer $1100 to replace the brakes two years ago.

I have no problem doing the work myself, though may be back here for questions once i get into the job. My first question is lifitng the unit safely. What kind of jack do i need? And, where can i buy it?

Thx!!!!!
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:41 PM   #2
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5 ton would be minimum I'd use on the front.
Auto parts store
Lowes
Sears

would be my choices
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:43 PM   #3
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I use the onboard leveling system and jack stands or you can use a bottle jack and jack stands that you can get from most any good parts store.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:01 PM   #4
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20 ton bottle jack, tractor supply, Lowes, home depot, etc. and a couple sturdy hardwood blocks if you need more height for the rear, 5 ton is not heavy enough, the 20 ton is only a little more and if you later upgrade your couch, you can still use it.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:16 PM   #5
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If you are doing the brakes you only need to lift the axles to get the wheels off. I use the leveling jacks to take the weight of the coach and then a 12 ton bottle jack to lift the axle. Then pop a jack stand underneath just in case the jack fails. I got mine from Northern Tool although you may be OK with Harbor Freight. Car part stores won't have anything heavy enough.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:26 PM   #6
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If you are only lifting one corner at a time a 5 ton jack will suffice 5 tons = 10,000 lbs.
No matter what jack is chosen use jack stands for safety.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:52 PM   #7
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If you jave an air compressor at home, Harbor Freight has a nice air/hydraulic bottle jack. You can use air or hand pump it up. It;s cheap and good for what you want to do.
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:23 PM   #8
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I don't use jack stands. I like to let the weight back down on blocks. I don't trust jack stands if something slips they can fly out with that much weight.
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Old 06-10-2013, 05:32 PM   #9
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I don't use jack stands. I like to let the weight back down on blocks. I don't trust jack stands if something slips they can fly out with that much weight.
If you use good jack stands, they are more stable than blocks. Never use cement blocks for supporting a vehicle. They can crack if not loaded properly.

Make sure the jack stands are on a level, solid and firm surface.

Ken
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:40 PM   #10
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Frozen Brakes

Dealing with your frozen brakes, again. Might check the rubber hoses that connect to your front calipers. They can fail internally and block the release of brake fluid pressure, thus leaving brakes applied after pedal is released. These rubber lines should be replaced when working on the front brakes. Hopes this helps.

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Old 06-10-2013, 08:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Dealing with your frozen brakes, again. Might check the rubber hoses that connect to your front calipers. They can fail internally and block the release of brake fluid pressure, thus leaving brakes applied after pedal is released. These rubber lines should be replaced when working on the front brakes. Hopes this helps.

ronspradley
X2! I've seen "mechanics" replace calipers only to discover that didn't solve the problem. A side note, it's amazing what flushing and installing new brake fluid makes in total braking effect.
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Old 06-11-2013, 06:15 AM   #12
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I should have been mode specific when I said blocks. When I built my deck I saved a couple of pieces of 6x6 and some pieces of 2x10. Ken you are right cinder blocks or even cement blocks should not be trusted. When pulled the wheels off the front of my motor home the front axle was only about 12 inches off the ground. I would have to jacked it much higher than I needed to too get a jack stand under it. Whether you use proper blocks or jack stands safety comes first. Don't trust the jack.
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Old 06-11-2013, 03:07 PM   #13
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Hi tjc45 and

I agree with replacing the front hoses AND doing a full fluid flush. Who knows what the dealer did or DIDN'T do!

The caliper slide pins do have a bad habit of freezing up. Ford has a specific silicone-based grease for those pins. They are kinda odd compared to most caliper pins and yours probably look like this:



They are driven out and back in with a punch - I used a busted 3/8" socket extension. The center portion is rubber and it compresses over time. Unless you know for sure that the dealer replaced them, buy a new set of 4.

Best of luck!
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:31 AM   #14
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Thanks for all the great answers!!! This thread is a lot of help.

Once Homer is lifted and the wheels are off we will have a better idea of what we are dealing with. Most likely going to replace all the brake components. Get it done right!!

I'm sure i'll be back with more questions. Until then, please feel free to add to this thread.
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