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Old 05-09-2012, 07:31 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Wayne M View Post
And that is why I say, "Check the user manual, or check with the manufacturer." There is no way I would know that information without being told.

Is your information from being a past user of that model? Just curious where it came from. I tired to search for a user manual but I could not find one.

Thanks.
I do have the original user manual. I just am not sure where to look. ANy ideas?
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:10 PM   #58
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Since you will be on 6 acres in the middle of nowhere, will you have a shed or some form of garage next to your rig? If so you can easily collect rain water from the gutter system into a tank(550gallon or greater preferred for long term use/storage) you put a leaf filter so the tank doesn't collect them and easily make a first flush diverter to get rid of bird droppings,etc, then filter the water before you use it.

Solar power can provide almost all your power needs short of the a/c.

Your original owners manual may only give you basic info on the coach, have you contacted Fleetwood yet? They will email, fax or mail you your coach schematics and there is a service manual in the files section of the IRV2 site.
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:15 PM   #59
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Does anyone know if it is possible to not have a converter/charger because I don't think i have one. The owners manual states that i have a "The powertek pdc 1001 electrical power distribution center" and that "d.c. power is supplied by the "coach" battery or a converter." So I really think I have no converter because I have looked all over the rv and have not found any hints of one. So if I am dry camping does this mean that my chassis battery will not be charged when I run my gen? Yikes.
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:55 PM   #60
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It is probably a combination converter/fuse/CB panel. Find the fuse box and open it and see if the writing on it agrees with the manual. The DC fuses should be in the panel.

On my old trailer the converter was built in the box. My MH as a seperate converter.
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:01 AM   #61
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So I checked the fluid in my batteries and they look good. I tested the voltage on my 12v and it read 12.5 95 %. I then noticed that on a 6v house battery there was a fat cable that was almost all the way disconnected. I barely touched it and it disconnected. The clamp looks like it needs replaced and the exposed wire ends are all green with buildup.

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Old 05-10-2012, 09:09 AM   #62
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:13 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newrvlady View Post
Does anyone know if it is possible to not have a converter/charger because I don't think i have one. The owners manual states that i have a "The powertek pdc 1001 electrical power distribution center" and that "d.c. power is supplied by the "coach" battery or a converter." So I really think I have no converter because I have looked all over the rv and have not found any hints of one. So if I am dry camping does this mean that my chassis battery will not be charged when I run my gen? Yikes.
It's possible but not likely...because there needs to be a way to charge the house batteries while parked at an RV park. There are many 12V systems in the house like the lights and spark generators for the hot water, safety devices, etc.

Once you get that cable fixed, (btw, be sure you are unplugged from shore power while working on it), plug in shore power and simply measure the DC voltage across the two 6V batteries. Digital meters are under $10. If your converter/charger is working, you'll measure 13.2 to 14.6 volts across them. Also check that your GFI outlet in the bathroom hasn't tripped.

Have someone crawl under the RV and trace where the big red cable from the 6V battery goes (after the big solenoid)...that could lead you to the converter. Converters generally have a short AC cord that plugs into a standard AC outlet somewhere in the RV. Mine, for instance, is in a cubby hole under the sink, but accessed from an outside compartment.
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:23 PM   #64
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I do have the original user manual. I just am not sure where to look. ANy ideas?
Wasn't aimed at you, but glad you have the manual. Now, between tending to the children see if you can find time to read it ALL.

As stated, it may be basic so ask questions.
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Old 05-10-2012, 03:10 PM   #65
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Here is the best I can do for you right now:
=====================
1996 Pace Arrow manual states:

To Check the Battery charge:

1. Unplug the 120-volt AC power cord to turn the power converter off
2. Press BATTERY rocker switch on the panel
3. Turn on a light or any 12 volt appliance. The battery must be checked with a load
4. Read batter condition on the meter. Red is low, yellow is fair and green is good.

Both sets of batteries will be kept charged by the chassis engine alternator while driving.
The DC power converter will charge the coach battery when plugged into 120-volt AC service. (Note: It states coach batteries from the converter so the chassis (service) battery will not be charged when you are just plugged in. Use a separate charger to keep the service battery up. (see contradiction below)

You do have a solar panel if you have roof air conditioners. It will provide a trickle charge to your battery system. It is not a fast charger and is only used to keep the batteries topped off. You cannot run appliances on just the solar system.

The converter will automatically supply 12 volt DC power when your motor home is operating on 120 volt from the generator of public utility. It will also charge the coach and chassis batteries (Contradiction here)

Bathroom, galley and patio have GFCI devices.

You should also have a switch on the instrument panel to select the power source, wither chassis or house battery. Either position may drain the batteries if you are using the radio, tape deck or other equipment. It is probably best to not use the chassis battery for this purpose except for light use.

If you plan to store your motor home for over ten days, press the disconnect switch(es) to off.

http://fleetwoodrv.com/partsandservice/manuals.asp (for 1997 just found it)

I'm thinking that the wire you touched on the battery was a problem in trying to use the boost start as the connection was not good.

Happy trails.
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:06 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne M View Post
Here is the best I can do for you right now:
=====================
1996 Pace Arrow manual states:

To Check the Battery charge:

1. Unplug the 120-volt AC power cord to turn the power converter off
2. Press BATTERY rocker switch on the panel
3. Turn on a light or any 12 volt appliance. The battery must be checked with a load
4. Read batter condition on the meter. Red is low, yellow is fair and green is good.

Both sets of batteries will be kept charged by the chassis engine alternator while driving.
The DC power converter will charge the coach battery when plugged into 120-volt AC service. (Note: It states coach batteries from the converter so the chassis (service) battery will not be charged when you are just plugged in. Use a separate charger to keep the service battery up. (see contradiction below)

You do have a solar panel if you have roof air conditioners. It will provide a trickle charge to your battery system. It is not a fast charger and is only used to keep the batteries topped off. You cannot run appliances on just the solar system.

The converter will automatically supply 12 volt DC power when your motor home is operating on 120 volt from the generator of public utility. It will also charge the coach and chassis batteries (Contradiction here)

Bathroom, galley and patio have GFCI devices.

You should also have a switch on the instrument panel to select the power source, wither chassis or house battery. Either position may drain the batteries if you are using the radio, tape deck or other equipment. It is probably best to not use the chassis battery for this purpose except for light use.

If you plan to store your motor home for over ten days, press the disconnect switch(es) to off.

Fleetwood RV Manuals (for 1997 just found it)

I'm thinking that the wire you touched on the battery was a problem in trying to use the boost start as the connection was not good.

Happy trails.
Ok I think I actually understood all of that
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:45 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newrvlady View Post
So I checked the fluid in my batteries and they look good. I tested the voltage on my 12v and it read 12.5 95 %. I then noticed that on a 6v house battery there was a fat cable that was almost all the way disconnected. I barely touched it and it disconnected. The clamp looks like it needs replaced and the exposed wire ends are all green with buildup.

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Attachment 20961
Get that cable cleaned and re-attached,that will fix most of your battery problems.
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:55 PM   #68
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It's possible but not likely...because there needs to be a way to charge the house batteries while parked at an RV park. There are many 12V systems in the house like the lights and spark generators for the hot water, safety devices, etc.

Once you get that cable fixed, (btw, be sure you are unplugged from shore power while working on it), plug in shore power and simply measure the DC voltage across the two 6V batteries. Digital meters are under $10. If your converter/charger is working, you'll measure 13.2 to 14.6 volts across them. Also check that your GFI outlet in the bathroom hasn't tripped.

Have someone crawl under the RV and trace where the big red cable from the 6V battery goes (after the big solenoid)...that could lead you to the converter. Converters generally have a short AC cord that plugs into a standard AC outlet somewhere in the RV. Mine, for instance, is in a cubby hole under the sink, but accessed from an outside compartment.
I found it It was in one of the basement compartments. It is a inteli-power 9000 . We repaired the cable tonight but had a hard time getting any reading. I guess I need to plug in the shore power tomorrow and test them. Also, I checked my 12v chassis battery tonight and it is down to 12.45. Yesterday it was 12.55. So it seems to be going down fast. I really need to buy a trickle charger but I need to buy one that can charge whithout being plugged in since we will be dry camping. I think someone said I could plug it into the 120v plug by the genny and it will charge the chassis battery while the genny is going. Is this correct or should I look at a solor panel to maintain the charge?
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:36 AM   #69
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Wink

Clean all battery cables and posts
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:14 AM   #70
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Update on battery charge

This morning my 12v chassis battery was down to 12.35. It is going down .10 each day. I just plugged it shore power so we shall truly see if it does or does not receive a charge from shore power. It seems that 98's do and 96's do not so maybe i will call fleetwood and ask about the 97. Or I could just see what happens today.

Does anyone know if I should have the main and house battery switch on or off when plugged into shore power. Does it have any impact on the charge?

Update: I can't figure out what is happening when I use my voltimeter to test the voltage on the two 6v. I put the neg. teaster on the neg connection on one(left battery) and the red/pos. on the post. connection on the other battery(right battery) and it just constantly jumps around from 8 -.5 and everything in between. And if I don't put it in the exact right spot it will not even read anything. Also if I switch the testers around so that I am testing the pos. connection from the battery on my left with the neg.batt. connection from the battery on my right it will not ready anything. I just had plugged in my shore power when I did the testing. Maybe it needs to charge for a while.
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