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Old 07-14-2012, 09:23 PM   #15
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Usual cause of overheating (other than extreme loads) is restrictive water flow. If the radiator has been cleaned the it most likely your thermostat not a guage
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Old 07-15-2012, 12:48 PM   #16
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I believe the gauge is working...its just the old school display makes it hard to know what its doing exactly. The mechanic was riding with me and assured it me it was ok if the needle touches the red. I will swap out gauge and keep you posted. I may go ahead and replace thermostat too but I want to see what it is doing first with a numerical gauge. Like I said the 180-190 temps red with the laser gauge when my current gauge was touching red. He told me these motors run better this hot. Thanks for all of your comments. I will get it straight and post the results.
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:13 PM   #17
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You should be fine at 190. I was thinking 290 when replying in my previous post. I have run several hundred in the exhaust but you want to stay around 200 in your coolant. Get a good gauge to confirm.
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Old 07-16-2012, 07:31 AM   #18
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You are asking a lot of the old girl. Seventy to 75 is not a place I would want to run, I set my cruise at 60 never exceed that. I tow a full size Dodge Ram Crew Cab


You said you had the 190 HP version, mine is also a 5.9 but is 270Hp which is considered low by todays standards. Mine also is a 24 valve engine and I believe yours is a 12 valve engine.
Diesels will heat up under load, but should not OVERHEAT. The thermostats (2) I believe, may need replaceing, but SLOW DOWN especially if you are going to be hauling that trailer. I just returned from Branson, and there are some really steep hills on US 65, I didn't overheat, just barley approached the center of the dial when pulling those hills, topped a couple at about 35MPH. Not the first to the top of the hill but I pass those 500 hp guys when they are stopped for fuel.
If you need to go that fast you should maybe look into a 500 plus HP Coach :B

Happy Trails,
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:13 PM   #19
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You mentioned 'he cleaned the fins'. Much of the over-heating problems in rear radiator diesels comes from dirty residue in the radiator and inner/after cooler. Just spraying down the radiator will not get the gunk off. Get up under the unit and spray something like Gunk or as someone said Simple Green. I used a quarter car wash several years ago with a Cat engine and crankcase breather that dumped the fumes and smoke right in the face of the radiator. That worked, but the best thing to clean them is someone with a stream cleaner. Freightliner in Gaffney did ours and it was amazing to see the cr*p that came off that cooling system.
Said all that just to say this. Do you actually know HOW he cleaned them?
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:56 PM   #20
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I think we have the same engine and transmission (mine has 160HP). I had an overheating problem driving up my first real mountain west of Denver. Two problems were causing this. One was all of the gunk on the outside radiator fins that faced the motor. Found out about "slobber". The other cause of overheating was not keeping the RPM's up high enough for adequate air flow thru the radiator. I have a mechanical radiator fan. My automatic transmission was not downshifting enough to keep the RPM's up. After that lesson, I now have a clean radiator and I watch temperature and adjust speed and RPM's accordingly. Hope this helps.

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Old 07-18-2012, 11:15 AM   #21
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I really don't know how he cleaned it since I was not able to be there and Iv decided to take it to reputable shop and have it thoroughly cleaned/flushed to make sure. I told him to put new hoses/belts/thermostat/air filter as well. Even if it is the thermostat is what is causing the overheating it will not hurt to have radiator flushed and steam cleaned. I contacted the previous/original owner who is an older lady and she told me she didn't think the radiator had ever been flushed. My fan is a mechanical one as well so its interesting more RPMs should cool it because mine didn't downshift either on the long hill (as you were saying.) The coach has been setting for awhile and I knew before buying it I would have to go thru and have it serviced good to make it road ready. I felt like $10k was a good deal for a one owner diesel pusher so the pill is a little easier to swallow. The good news is, me and my band tour more in the fall (cool) and primarily the southeast (flat). Sure I would like to have 500HP, but I would be very content with mine just running cool. I went by Cummins here in Nashville and talked to a mechanic and he told me as long as the cooling system worked well, it would not hurt to run it wide open down the road. My ideal speed I want with the trailer/equipment is 55-65 MPH so maybe I can achieve this without standing on it all day anyway. Thanks again for all of your input. I will keep you updated. I have much more confidence in the repair shop its in now as opposed to the previous attempt.
Safe travels!
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:16 PM   #22
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a dirty fuel filter on my cat will make it run hot if you are running it hard,leans the motor out and causes heat.
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Old 07-19-2012, 11:32 PM   #23
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NEW INFO: The mechanic called me today and said he took the radiator off to have it cleaned thoroughly at another shop but noticed it was very rusted at the bottom. He said if it were him he would put new one on it. He said if he was using it just to camp in a few times a year he would not replace it but since we are requiring more (traveling the southeast) it needs to be replaced. How would y'all feel about this? If you were going to buy a new radiator, are there upgrades or high performance radiators you would buy? If so where? Also, is the transmission cooler built into the radiator?
Thanks,
Brandon
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:09 AM   #24
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I think you are looking in the wrong place to find the source of this heat...at least partially. First, just because it is a diesel doesn't mean it won't overheat even with nothing wrong in the cooling system. Motorhomes are underpowered when compared to cars. This means the engines work harder at the same rpm. This generates more heat. If you are going up a long 4% grade at 65-75 mph, you are generating too much heat. Get your foot off the pedal and drive slower. The exhaust gas temp is also important. Your turbo will allow it to get up too high for your engine. Do you have an exhaust gas temp gauge? You should be paying as much attention to this temp as you do to engine temp. On the other problem with the radiator, before I'd put a new one in, I'd check around to see if they make one with more cooling capacity. This would likely be the same size with another row of cooling tubes. Make sure it won't be too close to your fan blades. Good luck!
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:15 AM   #25
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Another thought. Some diesels, like my Fords, need to have the air burped out of the cooling system or they will over-heat. This comes from changing the coolant and having air left at a high point in the cooling system. This acts like a restriction in the flow and it will overheat. I do not know if this is a problem with your specific diesel, but a diesel mechanic would.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:40 AM   #26
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One other thing to consider, I had a 1998 one ton diesel van that was built when the national speed limit was 55mph. Therefore it was designed to be run at that speed. The engine had a governor to prevent it from over revving. It would still run 80mph but was not designed to run at that speed. the engine accessories ie water pump, alternator, a/c compressor, p/s pump pulleys were set up to do their job at 55mph. Anytime I would run faster than 60-65 with the a/c on it would shred the belt. It would be the hardest vehicle to change belts on in addition to it being the last belt to get to. When running at speeds higher than set up for the drag from overloaded accessories can cause overheating. I cant remember when the nat. limit was raised but this could be a contributing factor
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Old 07-20-2012, 08:14 AM   #27
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Put a new radiator in . It,s a 1992 so put it in. Put in a new thermostat and All new hoses And a new belt or belts. Cause they are all 1992 and make sure your trassmisson cooler is mounted so the hoses goes in at the side not from the botton. Mine was comming in at the botton and the trassmisson always over heated.
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Old 07-20-2012, 10:50 AM   #28
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Thanks for input. I agree with you bluefox since it is a 92 and I will be using it at least once a week, I am going to "start fresh" with some new components. I agree that since I will be replacing it to try to find one with extra cooling. (Banks?) I understand that it was designed to run 55-60mph tops and I am content with that. When I was pulling that hill (4-5%) I was running under 50 so its not simply a matter of getting my foot off of it. My coach has a GVWR of 19500 lbs. It also has the 190 hp Cummins with Allison AT 542. As long as this runs cool, I think this thing is gonna do what I need it to. Thanks for the help! I will keep everyone posted.
Brandon
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