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BRex45 · 09-18-2015, 02:52 PM

Looks to have been driven through saltwater or on salted winter roads. That is a heavy coat of rust on the air can push rods. Our semi-trailers, driven coast to coast, did not show that much rust. DMTTransport had an excellent suggestion and you should think of checking all the slack adjusters for free movement and make sure the grease zerks are accepting grease.

cwit · 09-18-2015, 04:28 PM

When you took the picture was your park brake on? If so it looks all right. Make sure the pin is loose. You should have a peep hole where you can see how far the shoes are from the drums. Air brakes are a easy system to learn and if you have them you should at least learn the basics.

Pds47 · 09-18-2015, 05:35 PM

just a brake pod that has been used up north and or east salt rust should not be a problem brake pods cost about 80 to 100 each replace if they seen ugly but if the pin where it hooks to the arm is free drive on, just make sure your brakes are adjusted

twinboat · 09-18-2015, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cwit

When you took the picture was your park brake on? If so it looks all right. Make sure the pin is loose. You should have a peep hole where you can see how far the shoes are from the drums. Air brakes are a easy system to learn and if you have them you should at least learn the basics.

The DOT maximum movement on the rod is 1 inch. Even if the rod is out 1 inch on installation, there is about 5 inchs, to much movement, on that rod.

With the parking brake on, you can not see how far the shoes are from the drum, since they are on, nor will the pin be loose.
With the brake off there will be lots of room, between drum and shoe, but that is not a way to gauge brake adjustment.

The automatic slack adjuster linkage is purposely bent away from the adjuster, most likely because the adjuster is frozen. That must be addressed !

I referenced a DOT Training Manual that explains all of this, with lots of detail.

Dutchstar08 · 09-18-2015, 06:22 PM

Take it back to the dealer They sold you a very unsafe RV
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I would not drive that thing a mile down the road.

Is it bad, Hel((( yess

LETMGROW · 09-18-2015, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dad

Wow, I bought this from a dealer too. Ugh:(

I did replace the tires on the front $620 each. Saving up for the back. The fronts were 12 years.

A dealer sold this to you in this condition?
Do you have a warranty?
Does your state have an inspection program? Does the vehicle have to pass a LEGAL inspection before it is sold by a dealer?
If you can answer yes to any of these three questions you might have some recourse. At the least the dealer may offer to buy it back.
Lynn

cwit · 09-19-2015, 05:49 AM

I went to the dot specks and it says 3/4 to 1 1/2 ins travel does not state how long the rod should be. I should of said the distance the shoes from the drum should be checked with the air brake off. There is no rod for the auto adjuster it is built within the slack itself. I did state they should be checked. I still stand by my statements. Dot is section 108 I believe. Also the pin should be checked with the brake off. I hope I corrected all my statements, I want the OP to be safe.

twinboat · 09-19-2015, 06:19 AM

It also states that it should not go beyond 90 degree angle, between the slack and the rod, when brake applied. WAY past that.

Zoom in and you can see the auto adjuster bent up out of the way.

cwit · 09-19-2015, 04:06 PM

After zooming in I don't know what that is on top of that slack. Auto adjuster Maybe I don't know. I have never seen one like that. I have a lot of years working on air brakes and if you say it is an auto adjust I cannot disagree. To me it kind of looks like a manual slack with the 9/16 head. REgardless it needs to be checked.

Dad · 09-21-2015, 10:09 AM

RV is at the mechanics, He said the break being like it is in the picture is crazy stupid and it should not have been on the road other then driving it to a close mechanic. Was able to fix it. Other then that one he said the breaks look good.

I will try and go after the dealer. I think they should at least pay for all the broken stuff that was broken when I bought it. I did get a warranty but they called and said they won't pay for anything since it was a preexisting condition. So since it was broke when I bought it they are not paying for it. (why did I buy a warranty then?)

The tire dates are too old and will get that in the budget to replace.

Will take on a rust removal project in the spring.

The info in this thread and the others I have started had been great. Thanks for all of it. I hope I get to a point some day were I can help someone out. I am a new guy in all this rv stuff so learning and learning fast.

twinboat · 09-21-2015, 12:47 PM

Sounds like a Tail light warranty.

Once the dealer sees the tail lights, the warranty is over.

LETMGROW · 09-22-2015, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dad

RV is at the mechanics, He said the break being like it is in the picture is crazy stupid and it should not have been on the road other then driving it to a close mechanic. Was able to fix it. Other then that one he said the breaks look good.

I will try and go after the dealer. I think they should at least pay for all the broken stuff that was broken when I bought it. I did get a warranty but they called and said they won't pay for anything since it was a preexisting condition. So since it was broke when I bought it they are not paying for it. (why did I buy a warranty then?)

The tire dates are too old and will get that in the budget to replace.

Will take on a rust removal project in the spring.

The info in this thread and the others I have started had been great. Thanks for all of it. I hope I get to a point some day were I can help someone out. I am a new guy in all this rv stuff so learning and learning fast.

Pre existing? As in it was not road worthy when he sold you the RV?
If he is a registered dealer this wouldn't fly in my state. Is this an RV dealer or some fly by night used car hustler?
I would have a thorough inspection done by a reputable repair shop familiar with RV's for any defects. Especially safety items. How long a period is the "warranty" good for?
Lynn

steamyb · 09-22-2015, 05:12 AM

When the clevis froze-up from lack of lube (a shot of WD-40), the air pressure in the brake chamber caused the rusted chamber to pull loose from the chamber bracket. It needs a new brake chamber (they come with a new clevis), but the push rod will have to be cut to get that 90* angle with brakes applied. The slack adjuster has a built-in mechanism that measures the stroke of the push rod. When the clevis froze-up, the auto-adjuster stopped working. This caused the over extension of the push rod.
So- a new brake chamber and slack adjuster and if the shoes have enough lining on them (1/4" min.), you should be good to go. Figure 2.5 hours labor, since they will pull the wheels- now would be a good time to replace them. Hopefully you won't need a brake drum.

I'm retired after 32 years mechanic with Roadway/Yellow, now YRC.

Dad · 02-01-2016, 10:54 AM

Wanted to update. Dealer is pretty much ignoring a BBB report and has stated in the report this is my fault for not bringing it back so they could fix it among many other items that needed fixed. Not sure how I can bring it back with only three breaks, plus the staff told me I could not bring it back since it was used.

I have the items all fixed now but it chaps me a bit that the dealer is allowed to sale units and say it all works and we inspected it. then find out later none of that was true. People say hire a lawyer, just the brake not being hooked up is enough reason to hire one people say but man that get's expensive. Anyone on here have experience with this kind of thing?