Community Forums

wrmyers · 03-28-2019, 08:01 AM

I have a 1998 Monaco Dynasty, 325 HP diesel, Allison 6 speed transmission. When turning the key to start the starter gets no power. It worked twice in between attempts, then not at all. Battery fully charged, posts are clean, etc.
If I apply 12V to the wire from the ignition solenoid (in the rear electrical panel) which goes to the starter, the engine cranks & starts.
That wire is actually connected to a relay titled NEUTRAL SAFETY, which has power to it when the key is in the "on" position.
I have started the engine, moved the MH forward and backward thinking it may be the Neutral switch, but shifting the transmission didn't make a difference.
ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS?
I would like a wiring diagram from the key start position to the starter. I realize there are several connections in between,but I don't know where they are . . .

oscarvan · 03-28-2019, 08:25 AM

Have you bypassed the neutral switch? They can go bad/get misaligned if mechanical and no amount of shifting is going to fix that....Unless it's electronically controlled from the TCM/ transmission control panel. Not sure how yours works... but that's the direction it sounds like you have to dig.

Quincy · 03-28-2019, 12:19 PM

I think you might have answered your own question. You did not say if the 12 volts was an outside source or from the existing chassis battery.

pumper9x9 · 03-28-2019, 12:52 PM

I have a 2002 Country Coach. I had a similar problem and I found out there were 2 starter relays. One was in the compartment in front of the LF wheel and the other was in the R side of the engine compartment. I replaced the one in front. If you put your hand on it you could feel and hear it click when the key was turned. I gave a gentle whack with a hammer and it started right up. As soon as I parked it I went out and bought two of them. Any auto parts store should have one. Good Luck.

wrmyers · 03-28-2019, 06:53 PM

When the key is in the "on" position all dash indicator lights work and the gauges move to their "on" position.
When turning key passed on to "start" all the lights go out and gauges go back to off position.

HJLowell · 03-28-2019, 07:28 PM

Do you think your key starter switch
Could be bad ?

They are very easy to switch out.

twinboat · 03-28-2019, 08:45 PM

Classic sign of bad cable connections.

Make that happen a few times and then feel the cable ends. The hot one is the bad one.

oscarvan · 03-28-2019, 10:18 PM

Again.... guessing is pointless. Multimeter and someone that can interpret the results.

Quincy · 03-30-2019, 09:47 AM

When the starting circuit is engaged IE; turning the key to start. All the available electrical is dedicated to start the battery by shutting off any electrical draw that is not needed to turn over the motor. What you described might be normal.

Domo · 03-30-2019, 10:01 AM

If you don't have a meter...

Get a helper.

Grab a screwdriver and stand in front of the starter relay(s).

Tell the helper to turn the key to the start position, and simultaneously short the output (thick wires) on the starter relay (test one at a time). If the motor turns over, that starter relay is broken (bad contacts or open coil) or it is not getting it's 12 VDC to activate - so, if the 12 is on the thin wires, the relay is bad - otherwise, chase the wire back and remove/clean/re-crimp all the connectors including at the ignition switch.

pumper9x9 · 03-30-2019, 11:39 AM

I bet you a dollar to a doughnut it's the starter relay.

tropical36 · 03-30-2019, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wrmyers

I have a 1998 Monaco Dynasty, 325 HP diesel, Allison 6 speed transmission. When turning the key to start the starter gets no power. It worked twice in between attempts, then not at all. Battery fully charged, posts are clean, etc.
If I apply 12V to the wire from the ignition solenoid (in the rear electrical panel) which goes to the starter, the engine cranks & starts.
That wire is actually connected to a relay titled NEUTRAL SAFETY, which has power to it when the key is in the "on" position.
I have started the engine, moved the MH forward and backward thinking it may be the Neutral switch, but shifting the transmission didn't make a difference.
ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS?
I would like a wiring diagram from the key start position to the starter. I realize there are several connections in between,but I don't know where they are . . .

I'm betting on an aux. solenoid that's wired in, right before the main starter solenoid and one that you might find mounted inside the frame, not far from the starter.
Since replacing mine, I've also wired in a couple of bypass circuits with some buttons in my basement compartment and so that I can go back and direct battery power to the main solenoid, whenever I might have a problem in the future. The one button bypasses a long list of everything except the main solenoid, so if it still doesn't work, one might as well replace the starter ass'y. and be done with it.
The other button puts power directly on said aux. solenoid, so you might try applying power there, except that the problem might be intermittent and work anyway. Thing is, they're cheap enough, so why not just change it out.
I now have a spare starter on board as well, that came along during my learning process.

oscarvan · 03-30-2019, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Domo

If you don't have a meter...

Get a helper.

Grab a screwdriver and stand in front of the starter relay(s).

Tell the helper to turn the key to the start position, and simultaneously short the output (thick wires) on the starter relay (test one at a time). If the motor turns over, that starter relay is broken (bad contacts or open coil) or it is not getting it's 12 VDC to activate - so, if the 12 is on the thin wires, the relay is bad - otherwise, chase the wire back and remove/clean/re-crimp all the connectors including at the ignition switch.

I don't think this is "advice" you want to give to someone who didn't start screwing engines up at the age of 13..... If you don't know what you're doing you can do some impromptu "welding" down there.... or worse.

GET A METER..... they're under $20 for %^( sake.

153stars · 03-30-2019, 11:47 PM

I recommend dual impedance meter to prevent ghost voltage reading from poor connections. I have spent hours before looking ...why something isn't working but has full voltage reading on multimeter..that wouldn't fool a "wiggy only for AC" or got 12v that wouldn't fool a 12v test light. Low impedance setting prevents false readings.