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Old 06-18-2018, 06:26 AM   #1
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Kwikee jacks alarm

Having problems with my jacks alarm going off after about 3 hours of driving.
I have checked the fluid and it is full. It appears when the buzzer goes off the jacks are only about 1/4" down and do not go any further down, but the buzzer is a PITA, would like to just have the warning light on the dash without buzzer.
I would like to disconnect the alarm buzzer but can not get under the dash to locate it.
Is there a wire on the control panel that feeds the buzzer ?
Jacks are Kwikee level best 3000 and the control panel is automatic, however I always use the manual to raise and lower.
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Old 06-18-2018, 09:16 AM   #2
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This isn't a fix but for now, can you plan a stop a little before the 3 hour mark to re-raise the jacks? Wouldn't take but a few seconds to set the brake, hit the raise button, disengage the brake, and take off.

The alarm is an important feature of the system so disabling them would not be an option for me. Would be best to figure out the problem and have the system repaired. Sounds like there is either air in the hydraulics or a solenoid(s) leaking by.
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Old 06-18-2018, 03:49 PM   #3
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I had the Level Best 3000 on our Itasca and had the same problem. The level of fluid doesn't control the jacks down alarm. Look at the top of your jack and you will see a wire coming out. There is a magnetic switch inside the top of the jack that will indicate when a jack is not all the way up. Unfortunately these switches fail and I was unable to find a substitute. I jury rigged a micro switch on the leg to bypass the switch and all worked well. If your jacks are actually dropping, then you may have a leaking solenoid allowing it to drop.
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Old 06-18-2018, 05:52 PM   #4
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I had a very long write-up on this but it just got "lost" somehow.


p.m. me with your phone number and I'll give you a work around that worked for me for over 8 years - same system.


You just need to add a toggle switch to the red wire on the 4 pin connector at the back of the control panel.


The switches at the top of each jack are called "Reed Switch(s)." They are in series and when the jacks are up pin #6 on the big connector on the back of the control panel is shunted to ground. All four of mine were replaced and the problem came back after 2 weeks.
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Old 06-18-2018, 06:04 PM   #5
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I have the same Coach with the same Kwikee jacks. I believe the actual buzzer is located behind the jack panel. When I removed the panel I could hear the buzzer very clearly. When the buzzer on mine would go off, the wife would get up and push the all up button. I finally had the left rear jack replaced due to a leak and the alarm hasn't gone off since. The jack appeared to only drop about 1/4" when the buzzer went off.
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne M View Post
I had a very long write-up on this but it just got "lost" somehow.


p.m. me with your phone number and I'll give you a work around that worked for me for over 8 years - same system.


You just need to add a toggle switch to the red wire on the 4 pin connector at the back of the control panel.


The switches at the top of each jack are called "Reed Switch(s)." They are in series and when the jacks are up pin #6 on the big connector on the back of the control panel is shunted to ground. All four of mine were replaced and the problem came back after 2 weeks.
Wayne, will the toggle switch just shut off the buzzer and the red light on dash stay on ?
I have searched for your old post also with no luck.
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Old 06-19-2018, 02:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Wayne, will the toggle switch just shut off the buzzer and the red light on dash stay on ?
I have searched for your old post also with no luck.
The toggle switch turns off the buzzer and the light.


Remove the control panel. There is a 4 connector plug with a red wire on it. You can disconnect that plug after you have retracted and it will serve the same purpose as the toggle switch. However removing and re-inserting the 4 little screws seems to wallow out the luan.


Follow the red wire and if there is a little module the wire connects to you can disconnect the red wire, and hook it to the toggle switch. Connect another wire from the toggle switch to the small module. I drilled a hole to permanently mount the toggle switch. Get a toggle switch with a long shank to go through the wood, not the luan.



You can use any type switch, rocker, toggle, etc. I used insulated push on connectors but you could use non-insulated and some heat shrink tubing.



If there is no module just interrupt the red wire and go through the toggle switch.
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Old 06-20-2018, 06:18 PM   #8
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thank you Wayne I will take the cover plate off and look for that red wire and module
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Old 06-21-2018, 06:44 AM   #9
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Bob, I forgot to mention that my previous RV was a 2008 Winnebago Destination 39W. I couldn't get rid of it 'cause I'd have been upside down financially. Last year Hurricane Harvey took care of it for me.

That jack alarm problem was a nuisance to us from the second year we owned it until Harvey took it. We purchased it new in 2008. Four reed switches replaced, pump replaced, tank and solenoids, three jacks replaced and no fix. After 10 days at the service center in Forest City they parked it in the parking lot and said it was ready.

We went out to the MH and I started it, put the jacks down and got an "Out Of Stroke" light. They said it was because the parking lot was not level. Raised the jacks and the alarm stayed on. Moved to a level spot and tried again. Same thing. One of the technicians said that putting the key in the accessories position would keep the alarm from sounding. I asked if he knew how I could start the engine and go down the highway with the key in the accessories position. End of that discussion.

By this time their were 3 technicians sitting on the ground and the service writer at the door step. I was working the controls. I asked if they had checked the high pressure port to see if there was 1500 psi present. The service writer looked down at the techs and the reply was, "We don't have a gauge."
Are you kidding me! The service center doesn't have a gauge that would most likely cost under $100! (Gauge, short line, 3/8" fitting assembled by a hydraulic shop). I decided in that instant we were leaving and would have it looked at when we got home. I was assured they would cover all costs under warranty. Oh, that was during a WIT rally and they don't honor warranties during the rally. All other little fix-it-uppers were on us.

I'm getting winded here: Thank you to Holiday of Houston, South's service manager. My unit was stored about 3 miles from their facility. The service manager and a tech would go to my unit about every other day or 3 days and try and trouble shoot the problem. They really thought they had it fixed when they replaced the 4 reed switches but it only lasted about 2 weeks.

I personally believe that it is the proximity sensors (Reed Switches) that are not engaging when the jacks drop 1/2 to 1 inch. They were never able to stop that from happening. My next resort was to travel to Kwikee (at the time they were still a company) and let them deal with it.
We were very concerned when I turned the alarm off when this started. We would stop when safe to do so and DW would get out and check the jacks. They never dropped more than 3/4 of an inch or so.

I think the only way you will ever get it repaired is to take a trip to LCI and let them deal with it.

Good luck.
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Old 06-21-2018, 09:53 AM   #10
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I'm certainly no expert but when I think about it, there's just not that many things that can cause this problem. A bad solenoid, a bad reed switch, a fluid leak, or air in the system.

I would think that the jacks would continue to slowly drop if a bad solenoid was the culprit. And since the jack(s) is actually dropping, the reed switch(s) are doing their job. A fluid leak should be able to be found so I doubt it is that. The thing left is air in the system.

Maybe there's a pocket of air in the jack(s) that is causing the problem. The service manual indicates that there are times when bleeding the system via operating the jacks sometimes doesn't work. To the OP, have you tried manually bleeding the jacks in question?
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Old 06-21-2018, 12:55 PM   #11
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When the new jacks were installed, along with the new pump, and the new solenoids the system was bled each time. Still did not fix the problems. I agree that it cannot be to many things and I'm still of the opinion it is the reed switches when the jacks drop down a bit. I fought this problem for 8 years and in for repeat service so many times. Fortunate I had GS ESP and also fortunate the RV Repair place backed their service,

One other thing that can cause a jack to fail, or slip down when applied is any particle of rust or dirt in the system. The particle can get between a seal and cause an extremely small leak. Easy way to find out is to use a paper towel and a turkey baster. Stick the turkey baster in the hydraulic tank, stir a little, suck up some fluid and then transfer the the fluid to the paper towel and let it drain through. If there is sediment, and there is a problem, the entire system needs to be drained and flushed and new fluid added.

All of this was done to my RV and it still did not stop the problem. Only thing not changed was the control panel itself. I was going to go to (Power Gear)LCI, but Harvey had other ideas.
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Old 06-21-2018, 02:25 PM   #12
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There are no leaks in the system and when the alarm comes on the Jacks are only slightly down a quarter of an inch at the most. When I leave at home sitting in the yard with the jacks up after a month's time that Jack's are still at that same quarter in distance. I have never really tried bleeding the system I was told they are self bleeding and I wouldn't know where to bleed them at. It usually takes about three or four hours of driving before the warning comes on if I let it sit in the yard it still takes about three or four hours before that the alarm will come on.
I have thought about bleeding the brakes but I don't know where you would bleed them at the hydraulic unit itself or at the pump.
Wayne:
This problem started last fall while we were on our way to Florida. I never use the automatic leveling I always put it in manual. At the present time when we are driving down the road my wife just gets up while I am driving and pushes the button to raise Jacks and it's good for another 3 or 4 hours, at times it has lasted all day traveling without the warning light coming on.
I think I will just live with it for the time being besides it gives the wife some exercise.lol
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Old 06-22-2018, 05:36 PM   #13
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Bob, the brakes don't need bleeding. The hydraulic system for the jacks are what needs bleeding. You are correct in that the hydraulic system once in operation and fluid is in all lines the system will bleed itself. However there is a procedure to get residual air our of the lines. Extend the jacks as far as they will go and then retract them. This procedure will force the air in the lines back into the hydraulic tank.

My problem started like yours but just a little opposite. Mine would come on just a few mile down the road and after about 80-100 miles go off. Then it got worse and eventually the alarm would go on after a few seconds after being raised.

My DW also would get up and push the retract button but that got tiring and annoying after a while. I'm glad I put the toggle switch in.



The jacks will not go down any further than 1/2 or 3/4" when traveling. Well, they never did for us.
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Old 06-22-2018, 09:37 PM   #14
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I have HWH hyd jacks that did the same thing right after we bought the MH. Turned out I was the problem. I always use the automatic "store" button and turn the system off as soon as the "travel" light illuminates. Some miles down the road the loud alarm sounded.
A friend told me to leave the system on for a few minutes after the travel light illuminates_so I did. I've never had a jacks down alarm while driving since I began delaying turning off the system for a few minutes.
FWIW, start using the automatic function and observe any change in results.
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