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Old 08-10-2013, 10:00 AM   #1
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Kwikee step problem

I have read many problems with the step-controller, motor, linkage, etc on irv2. Really appreciate all that BUT that doesn't solve my problem.
I replaced the controller because there did not show any voltage to the motor. The problem was the same with the new controller, i.e., no motor movement. I removed the motor and it runs fine in both directions. The linkage was a little tight but seems to work.
Kwikee instructions say the controller only gives voltage to motor for 5 sec.
I don't see any voltage to motor (from the old or new controller).
Yes, I have proper voltage on leads: red (all time) & white(with power switch closed). Brown is grounded with door closed. Verified this at 4 way plug and also by putting pin thru insulation at controller itself.
I actually connected motor to plug but not bolted to step gears and there was no motor movement when the door is opened and closed.
Could I have 2 bad controllers..or am I dumber than I thought??
PLZ HELP ASAP. THANKS.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:18 AM   #2
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Could. But in reading your post I didn't see where you'd just tried hot wiring the motor itself. IF your motor is shorted internally, like a broken or over twisted hot terminal internally shorting to case, that would give you those symptoms. It would seem like a blown controller.

If you measure it with an ohmmeter, it should show 8-12 ohms. If you measure a short to case, couldn't hurt at that point to pull the motor apart and just look for something weird. If you hot wire it, be sure to have a fuse in the hot lead.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:21 AM   #3
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Yes, I ran the motor in both directions directly from a battery. but I really appreciate the help. I will reck the resistance of the motor, but it seem to have only a few ohms resistance, anyway it works fine.
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Old 08-10-2013, 10:25 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by LJJSRZ View Post
Yes, I ran the motor in both directions directly from a battery. but I really appreciate the help. I will reck the resistance of the motor, but it seem to have only a few ohms resistance, anyway it works fine.
Darnit. That was my only guess. A few ohms is fine. If it ran when you hot wired it, then it's OK.

When faced with a situation like this, I often remind myself that it's got to be something. Bad terminal, broken wire hidden in the loom, something.

Sorry I can't be of more assistance. You could drive over here and we could work on it. (Southern California).
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:20 PM   #5
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Check out this website.Kwikee Electric Steps Diagnostics on Vimeo
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:55 PM   #6
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I just today replaced my step motor. Here is what was found. Mine would run fine in both directions when on the work bench hooked up to 12 volt. However, when put under load it would not work. So off to napa for a new motor, and step is working fine. Just somthing else to consider. Good luck with yours.
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:22 PM   #7
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I had problems this summer and researched it to death before I got mine fixed.

One of the things I noted was that there seemed to be a lot of problems with the ground wire. Check yours and if necessary, run a temp. ground as a check. Maybe this will resolve your problem.

Good Luck!
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:03 AM   #8
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It helps if you specify which step you have, however the problem I had turned out to be unrelated to the step. In my case I changed the controller and could run the motor off a direct 12v connection to the motor or by putting the correct voltages to the controller. Mine was out of the coach and on a bench so this was an easier test.

When I put it back in the coach the step would not operate even though I could see all the voltages on the coach side and they were correct. Here is where it can get messy. If you have a bad fuse, or a corroded connection, you can see 12v with a multimeter, but the moment you try to draw current to the device the corrosion or bad fuse will restrict the draw and your voltage will drop significantly.

In my case it was thanks to Monaco's excellent design and construction techniques - where the door switch wire passed back through the body it entered the front wheel well directly in front of the tire. Hanging there was an open butt connector that crimped the end of the switch wire provided by Kwikee to the Monaco coach wiring. Naturally it was corroded and when I flexed it if fell apart.

The only way to diagnose this is to have someone activate the door while someone watches the voltages. Most meters won't hold the low voltage reading, although if you have to work alone there are some more expensive ones that will.

Put on a new connector with a built in heat shrink tube, connected it and sealed it and it works fine. My controller was probably working and I replaced it for nothing.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distaff View Post
It helps if you specify which step you have, however the problem I had turned out to be unrelated to the step. In my case I changed the controller and could run the motor off a direct 12v connection to the motor or by putting the correct voltages to the controller. Mine was out of the coach and on a bench so this was an easier test.

When I put it back in the coach the step would not operate even though I could see all the voltages on the coach side and they were correct. Here is where it can get messy. If you have a bad fuse, or a corroded connection, you can see 12v with a multimeter, but the moment you try to draw current to the device the corrosion or bad fuse will restrict the draw and your voltage will drop significantly.

In my case it was thanks to Monaco's excellent design and construction techniques - where the door switch wire passed back through the body it entered the front wheel well directly in front of the tire. Hanging there was an open butt connector that crimped the end of the switch wire provided by Kwikee to the Monaco coach wiring. Naturally it was corroded and when I flexed it if fell apart.

The only way to diagnose this is to have someone activate the door while someone watches the voltages. Most meters won't hold the low voltage reading, although if you have to work alone there are some more expensive ones that will.

Put on a new connector with a built in heat shrink tube, connected it and sealed it and it works fine. My controller was probably working and I replaced it for nothing.

Hope this helps.
Let me point out that the meter problem you mentioned happens with digital meters. (has numbers that flash reading) Due to the high input impedance of the meter they have minimal effect on the circuit. An analogue meter ( has a mechanical indicator) has a much lower input impedance so it draws a minute amount of current but usually enough to load the circuit and not give a false reading.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gemini5362 View Post
Let me point out that the meter problem you mentioned happens with digital meters. (has numbers that flash reading) Due to the high input impedance of the meter they have minimal effect on the circuit. An analogue meter ( has a mechanical indicator) has a much lower input impedance so it draws a minute amount of current but usually enough to load the circuit and not give a false reading.
Yup, and I sent out fewer typos when I used a typewriter! Not all new things are progress.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:07 PM   #11
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I think distaff called it. The 4-wire plug is known for that type of won't-pass-amps-but-still-shows-continuity-@-rest trouble. Could be elsewhere but I'd start there & clean all the connections well.
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