Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 11-09-2011, 12:54 PM   #15
Registered User

Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 3,198
Originally Posted by ChrisNiemann View Post
genny is out of the question, were parked about 50' from the old mans bedroom LOL, he'd kill me, and i don't think the cattle would care for it to much.
I didn't mean for you to run it all night, just for troubleshooting.

If everything works from the genny, then your rig is good from the transfer switch in, you've ruled out the rv wiring, breaker panel, etc.

I wouldn't suppose you have a voltmeter?
That would make quick work of this.

JimM68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-09-2011, 01:13 PM   #16
Senior Member
GaryKD's Avatar
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wellington, Florida
Posts: 12,533
The OP mentioned the furnace motor will not kick in due to low power. Assuming the furnace is the standard propane furnace, that power is 12 VDC from the batteries, no AC power is used.

ChrisNiemann, consider starting at the beginning and work through until you find the VAC problem. Consider:
1. Check the house power at the receptacles. Check all three legs for proper wiring, connections, etc..
2. Check the charger/converter. Is there 120 VAC input to this appliance?
3. Check the output to the batteries. >13.5 VDC?
4. Is the voltage at the batteries the same as at the converter/charger.
5. Are the coach batteries at 12.6 VDC.
6. Put a load on the source power circuit. With a meter does the power (VAC) drop below 108 VAC?
Please check and let us know what you find.

These suggestions are to establish there is power to the charger and the coach batteries are fully charged.

2005 Newmar KSDP 3910 + GMC ENVOY XUV 37K lbs Moving Down The Road
The Avatar Is Many Times Around The USA
Nobody Knows Your Coach Like Somebody Who Owns One Just Like Yours
GaryKD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2011, 01:57 PM   #17
Moderator Emeritus
Gary RVRoamer's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Silver Springs, FL. USA
Posts: 18,632
Run your genset for just a minute or two to see if you have full power that way. That will isolate the problem to either the RV or the garage outlet.

With a 30A connection, either the neutral or the hot could be bad (loose or corroded connection). And it could be bad inside your power cord, where the wires connect to the pins on the plug. That's not unusual, since the cord gets bent back and forth at that point often.
Gary Brinck
Former owner of 2004 American Tradition
Home is in the Ocala Nat'l Forest near Ocala, FL
Summers in Black Mountain, NC
Gary RVRoamer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2011, 02:29 PM   #18
Senior Member
wa8yxm's Avatar
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 23,900
The furnace runs on 12 volts, so if it's too slow to fire up then your batteries are low, This indicates the converter is not working.. I'm going to guess you have an inverter and that's what's running the microwave (And televisions)

you have no shore power.. Prime suspect is the breaker feeding that 30 amp outlet.. check it, NOTE: if it's tripping when it should not it may be wore out.

And the rest of the suspect list is .. Well, just follow the wire all the way to your RV's transfer switch (Assuming you have one, which means you have a generator)

iF everythign works properly on generator..... Then and you have good power IN to the transfer switch.. Well. that's your problem.

If you loose power BEFORE you reach the transfer switch.. Breaker wards of your test probe is the problem.
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2011, 02:50 PM   #19
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Walnut Creek Ca USA
Posts: 647
Do you have a VOM? if yes, go get it and start at the 30 amp outlet outlet. Check to see if you have 120 from hot to neutral and to ground. Now check the breaker panel in the coach with it plugged in. Is there 120 volts there from hot to neutral and ground. Keep going like that for all circuits until you find the fault. As others have said, air conditioning, furnace, and refer all require 12 volts to operate so now check your batteries. Do they read 12.6 volts or higherafter sitting off the charger for 3 hours? No?, check your converter and output fuses on the converter. Charge your batteries with a known good charger not the one in the coach. Now with all hooked up are you reading 13.2 volts or higher? if no, your converter is not working. Use that 20$ VOM to isolate voltage trouble then move onto current. Do you have a clamp on current meter or a 10 amp scale on the VOM? with a simple vom you can diagnose 95% of simple electrical problems.
-Paul R. Haller-
Paul R. Haller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2011, 05:05 PM   #20
Senior Member
wa8yxm's Avatar
Damon Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 23,900
Another option is to get an adapter, one that lets you plug a 15 amp plug into the 30 amp outlet (most places that carry RV stuff have 'em) and plug in a test lamp.. Any test lamp. If the lamp works, your RV should.
Home is where I park it!
wa8yxm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2011, 05:36 PM   #21
Registered User
Commercial Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 56
Have you actually used a volt meter to see how many volts you're getting inside the RV? Then I would check the outlet where your plugged in. Do you get the same reading? Let us know what you find.
Wayne Pryor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 04:41 PM   #22
Senior Member
ChrisNiemann's Avatar
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 235
so so so so sorry for the long delay of a reply, farm work got busy for a bit again. No, sorry, no volt meter yet, wife is getting it tomorrow when she goes into town. I usually have all my tools with me, but when i carry tools, things break on the road trip up here, since i stopped bringing tools, the rig and toad make it up here with no problems... damn karma.. lol

anyway, I just wanted to let everyone know that I will post back after I get the volt meter. but to fill in a few questions from above...

1.) the house batteries were crap when we bought them and the PO said he had replaced them twice but they would never charge so he stopped replacing them

2.) the chassis battery decided to take a dump on me the morning that we were leaving (fired right off the night before... karma again) so I used my toad battery to get me going since we left at 3am and nothing was open, so there is no chassis battery, therefore I can't just fire off the gen right now (remembered i pulled the battery the hard way when i pooped myself when the gen didn't even turn over... lol)

3.) yes, i do have an inverter under the bed where the breakers and 12v fuses are located, but again I can't check anything without a VOM.

4.) when i checked my ext cord and ends, i noticed at the end of my ext cord where it plugs into a regular 15amp outlet, the plastic around the straight prongs was a bit "melted" looking and one of the prongs looked as if it had gotten hot at one time as compared to the other, i don't remember it being like that before we plugged it in... I'll know more tomorrow when we get the meter.

5.) i flipped all the breakers inside the rv as well as the main breaker for the garage, it has just the old glass screw in fuses so i replaced the old one with a new one just to be sure

i'll update again tomorrow night after work is done and i get time to test my wires... thanks again everyone, really love the way everyone is willing to step in and answer questions without making a guy feel like a complete "donkey"

thanks again!
"Now why would you want to do something like that?" - My Dad
ChrisNiemann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2011, 08:54 PM   #23
Senior Member
ChrisNiemann's Avatar
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 235
so who wants to take a crack at it now... got my VOM and all outlets, plugs, wires, GFI Outlets all say 122.9 volts. My ground tester shows that all outlets from the garage "shore" to the inside of the RV have a proper grounded system and that no wires are backwards anywhere...

so again, why am i losing so much power when i turn on the microwave that it won't even heat up and the display lights won't show either while its running. I just don't get why its doing it this year and never done it before... again, any and all suggestions are and will be taken seriously and tested ASAP...

Thanks Again in Advance Everyone!

"Now why would you want to do something like that?" - My Dad
ChrisNiemann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2011, 12:06 AM   #24
Senior Member
GMRHost's Avatar
Vintage RV Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Jasper, Missouri
Posts: 339
Check the plug and the outlet on the Microwave? look for scoring on the plug, as can be caused by an outlet that is damaged internally. I've had bad outlets nearly melt a plug before.
Tom - Retired OTR 20 years 2 million mile club - 1984 Diamond Maxi
I love everybody! Even some above ground!
GMRHost is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2011, 03:27 AM   #25
Senior Member
Dunner's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
Have the wife run the microwave while you wiggle or re-seat ALL the AC connections coming from the house and in the motorhome. If it perks up even briefly, you've found your problem.
2004 32' National Sea Breeze 1311 Class A on a F-53 Chassis, CHF, TST TPMS, 5Star Tune.
If Dunner (RVM23) can't fix it, it ain't broke!
Cheap Handling Fix Poll. Click Here to vote?
Dunner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2011, 09:30 AM   #26
Thor Owners Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 31
You wrote......there is wire nuts here in the rv where the wires come in to the rv and then go to the breaker box/fuse panel in the rv.... guess i'll have to check those out yet too since i just redid them earlier this fall when i replaced the carpet in the bedroom.... After you did this did you test everything including the microwave?
Lost count of the times I replaced or modifyed something, didn't fully test it. Just a thought. Update us when you find the problem. Electrial problems in RV's can be a pain in the %$#*. Tom
RVtomtom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2011, 01:49 PM   #27
Senior Member
xctraveler's Avatar
Tiffin Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Aguanga CA Jojoba Hills SKP Resort
Posts: 332
I may have missed something along the way, when you say your are "losing power" is that in the entire coach or just that the microwave doesn't work properly? If the former, I haven't a clue, if the latter, just the microwave, have you considered that the Microwave is at fault and needs to be fixed/replaced?

We had our convection microwave fail on us in a similar (?) way. However convection worked not micro and if we turned on the micro everything failed and we had to reset to get the convection portion to work. Had the microwave tube replaced and all is good.
Paul Rocking down the road in our '12 Phaeton 36QSH, (in service May 2012 ) We tow an '11 4 dr Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon - Read my blog at goldberg-online.net AKA RVM86
xctraveler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2011, 02:11 PM   #28
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Hudson, Ohio
Posts: 32
You mentioned you replaced the carpet and re-did the wires earlier this fall. If it worked OK before your re-do, I'd take another look at the re-do.


hudson is offline   Reply With Quote


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Power Source: Inverter? Battery? Shore? Genset? Always-RVing iRV2.com General Discussion 13 09-01-2011 06:12 AM
Chasis Battery Dead While Connected to Shore Power adlerx Monaco Owner's Forum 7 03-05-2011 07:54 PM
No 12v unless on shore power Romer1 MH-General Discussions & Problems 24 07-21-2010 10:37 AM
Chassis battery charged by shore power? georgetown350 MH-General Discussions & Problems 18 03-26-2008 09:44 AM
How To Keep Engine Battery Charged While on Shore Power FLYTYER Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 15 06-18-2006 05:09 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:46 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.